We have now been in Indonesia for almost two weeks, but are just getting 'settled' into the first phase of our stay here... Until now we have been in constant motion/turmoil/upheaval! -- Dealing with Martin's last-minute travel issues (apparently if a S.American transits more than once in Europe, they need a visa... even if they're not getting off the plane, or staying for more than 2 hours! -- but he's here safe and sound at long last -- what a joyful reunion!) We've been: -- Getting over some serious jet lag (we're on the other side of the world, with an 13 hour time difference to Madoc, Ontario and 11 to the Galapagos!) -- Acclimatizing to the intense heat and humidity (it is upward of 30 C daily, and VERY humid) -- getting paperwork in place, moving from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, doing our "in-country" training and cultural training.... and of course, trying to see as much of every place we find ourselves!

Once we arrived in Jogja (the way the locals refer to Yogyakarta), we stayed 4 days in Duta Guest House, a truly gorgeous hotel (NOT how we think of hotels... more like a spa resort) with traditional Javanese hospitality. The island of Java is known for it's warm and hospitable people, and we have been the appreciative recipients of lots of smiles from helpful (and patient!) Javanese! It housed lovely gardens, and a pool in a natural setting in the courtyard, to help keep us cool. While staying at Duta with KoemKoem (CUSO Indonesia's Program Assistant who was escourting us through the adaptation process), she took us to see many of Jogja's curiosities. My favorite thus far was an incredible (and CHEAP!) open-air market area than spans about 5 city blocks... it carries everthing from batik clothing, to silver jewelry, to food, to medicinal plants... she gave us a very thorough tour, explaining about everything along the way, including the natural malaria-fighting plants (mostly bitter roots to drink as tea... I guess the mosquitos don't like bitter blood!?) We have also visited the Sultan's palace (yes, the city still maintains it's own king!), Teman Sari (Purawisata - The Water Palace), and eaten at every variety of restaurant and street vendor in town!

On Thursday we started language training at “Realia” in Yogyakarta. It’s going to be very intensive… and more so, because usually the “fall-back” language is English… but with Martin not speaking much English, we are using a mix/I’m translating… so I have many languages swimming around in my head. It's really nice here though, and we get free internet access any time there's electricity (!). We have classes Monday to Friday, 3 sessions of 2 hours each, with rotating teachers. And at least once a week, we go on a 'field trip' to a local attraction, to test ourselves in situ. We can also use the buildings and garden on weekends to study or hang out.

Our move into a homestay situation coincided with the start of our language course. We are living only 2 blocks from the language school in a neighbourhood called Pandega Sari that is a dutch-colonial left-over… apparently this is one of the coolest areas in the city, but I still find it stinkin’ hot! We are on the northern outskirts of the city, and can see Mount Merapi from here (the volcano set to erupt any day now)… there have been warnings out for months, and until yesterday it seemed to be ok… only the odd puff of smoke could be seen escaping from the conical giant. Apparently the local people living on the slopes of the volcano are doing all they can to appease the god of the volcano… they feel that the eruptions of the volcano and the subsequent devastation are a result of something they have done to displease the god, and cause them to fall out-of-favour with him. They are offering daily sacrifices of animals and harvest foods (but no humans, as used to be practiced) to appease him. The 'warden' of Merapi (an elder from one of the communities on the slope of the volcano) is the one who makes the call to evacuate or not... even though there are many vulcanologists studying the volcano, the locals believe that the spirits speak to this man, and look to him, not science, for guidance in matters of the volcano.

It seems that Merapi is still not appeased with all the offerings of the locals... it's on the move: yesterday we saw a great deal more smoke coming from the central vent, and there have been tremors, and apparently even lava flow. Today, the Australian couple who is staying at our homestay came back for their binoculars saying that there was major action up above. Jogja is over 30 kms from the volcano, so we should be safe... but don't worry... we'll keep our eyes and ears open!

Ok, the food... man is the food cheap!!! ... we ate a lavish dinner last night with many courses, etc, although not in an upscale restaurant... it only cost us the equivalent of 2 dollars! The night before we ate a simple meal at a "sit-on-the-floor" street stall for fifty cents each. And because everything is cooked out in the open, in front of you, it seems fairly safe as well. There is plenty of spicy food, which suits me just fine, but Martin is getting a bit sick of it. We have tried almost all the different kinds of juices and fruits that we can get our hands on... so far my favorite is 'snake fruit', called salak in indonesian. Our favorite fruit shake (avocado) even exits here... but with a chocolatey twist! And Mom, there are LOTS of mangos!

The Indonesian government recognizes 5 religions officially, with 90% of the population being practicing Muslims. Yesterday, we had our first encounter with Buddhism here... and talk about the perfect day to do it!!! We went to the Temple of Borobudur, a UNESCO world heritage site, and one of the most renoun Buddhist sanctuaries in South-East Asia... and it just happened to be Waisak -- the celebration of the Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death.... the biggest Buddhist holiday of the year! The site itself was incredible, and the fact that hundreds of thousands of people from all over were completing their pilgrimage that day made that much more special... We were 'special guests' (although we have no idea how we obtained that special status...), so had free passes to entrances to all the temples, guided tours, and access to all the VIP areas, and food, etc! We followed the path of Buddha's life, and climbed to the top of the temple (which was actually built wrapped around a hill) to touch the feet of the Buddha for good luck in life. I came home with a bit of a sunburn, but feeling pretty good about the world.

Ok, we're off to the apotek (drug store) to get some cream for what looks like a heat rash that's developing on my wrist... uugh.

Hope all's well in Canada... keep me updated!