Hellos... We're still alive, and ok... although we have been seeing some very heart-wrenching scenes.

We are just back to Jogja at 1am this morn... dirty and exhausted. Martin and I have spent the last week very active in lending our healing hands (and voices) to the relief effort to the south of here. We have been between Jogja and a posko (base camp) near Bantul and Parangtritis. The camp is run by a local NGO called Yayasan Gaia (Foundation Mother Earth) -- a very well organized partner supported by CUSO -- and has become the temporary home to many displaced, homeless families, as well as the logistical coordination centre for that entire area.

The destruction in that area is absolutely unfathomable... the damage in the city is nothing compared to some of the areas we have been working in -- whole communities reduced to rubble, where the only thing left standing might be the cow's shelter (because it was made from bamboo). I am not posting pictures, as I'm told the coverage in the Canadian media has been quite extensive, and it takes WAY too long!

Our contribution to the relief effort has been varied. I have been doing everything from visiting families and just listening to their stories, to dispensing pharmaceuticals, to building temporary shelters... but mostly I have been part of a mobile medical unit, providing medical attention to people in villages in the most harshly affected areas which are highly inaccessible, and have yet to receive much in the way of aid. The majority of the most serious medical cases had been taken care of, but the major problem at this point is that some major infection is starting to set in... people are wearing their bandages like clothes, not cleaning or changing their dressings, and with very sketchy sanitary conditions and precious little clean water, they literally can't take care of their wounds. The conditions in many of the temporary shelters are rudimentary at best, with little clean water and no 'systems' in place for disposal of waste... it seems to me they are a breeding ground for an epidemic, or outbreak of some kind.

On a more positive note, one of the most inspiring things I have seen as a result of this disaster has been the incredible sense of community that the Indonesian people share, especially in the smaller, more remote villages. During one of the medical visit that we made to a village in the hills, it was evident that the people had very little, and their supplies of food were running low, yet they work together, and take care of eachother. They have gathered into communal areas to ensure that everyone has shelter, and they cook whatever food they have and share it between them. The communities are rallying to rebuilt and provide support from within and not just relying on external aid.

I think one of the most frustrating things about the relief effort is that a disaster of this magnitude is a logistical nightmare... there are local NGOs, International NGOs and Foundations, and government and military from many countries, and then there are countless families and local organization that normally do not work in the sector that are taking donations... and everyone is trying to get aid out... but no one is able to coordinate an effort of this size! Many areas are seeing a great deal of cross-over, while there are STILL areas which have received little or no help.

Another frustration are the 'disaster tourists'... the people who come to gawk and take pictures, but not act. It is to the point that the local people have signs out saying (roughly translated) "please help us, don't just look at us".

As many of you know, we have only had about 3 weeks of language training, and our bahasa Indonesia is basic at best. We thought that this, compounded by the fact that, in the remote villages in which we work the people speak different dialects than we are learning, would mean that our inability to communicate would be a hindrance to our effectiveness in the field. It's not... people are patient, and we get by communicating in the international language of smiles and charades.

Martin and I have both come down with colds... no doubt from the combination of 'sleeping' out at the camp and not really being able to sleep for a week (I'm still waking up at the sounds of any slight rumble, or feeling any minor wobble). And it's not just my imagination... we're still feeling aftershocks from the earthquake a week later! It's hard not being with family right now, after such a scary event, and seeing so many people who have lost parts of their families. I am very thankful that Martin and I are here together. Anyway, we will not be spending anymore nights in the camp (even though that generally means we don't get back until 1 am still)... and today may be our last day anyway. we are thinking of going to bali for a little under a week to get away from this disaster zone for a space... we'll let you know! When I think of this possibility I struggle between feeling guilty thinking of many of the families we've met (they can't escape to Bali, let alone to Jogja for a shower... this is their reality) and the need to take care of our personal health and sanity.