The fever extends past just WATCHING football, too... everyone has pumped up their soccer balls and are playing everywhere (in the daytime here, when there are no games being broadcast): kids play barefoot in the sand, teens on the street, and adults in the fields... (just men, though... i got a funny look when i asked to get in on a game... ) There's some real talent out there, too... it surprises me that Indonesia doesn't have a team that qualified for the World Cup.

I read that the Indonesian government has issued a stern warning something to the effect that just because the World Cup is on, that's no excuse for people to miss work (because they're tired, since they stayed up all night watching the games, live). But it seems maybe people were too tired to heed their warning.

WorldCup Fever has struck!

Funny thing, though, in Indonesia... a country which, like my own, doesn't even have a team competing in the tourney!!!

Nonetheless, it has become something of a phenomenon... Maybe in part it is a welcome distraction for many people from their recent misfortune... because when I say it's a fever... it's EVERYWHERE. Even communities that are still seeking shelter under communal tarps have a tv of some description which they're powering by very sketchy-looking patch wiring jobs from the closest pole with electricity.

We have taken to watching the Ecuador games (hey, at least SOMEONE here has a team in the running! A fact Martin is VERY proud of...). There is a Nonton Berang ("Watching Together") spot next door to our homestay, and the neighbours get a real kick out of it when we come and watch the games with them. I'm not sure if they are amused merely by our presence, or more-so because of Martin's rather involved style of ACTIVELY watching HIS team play (or, as was the case with Germany, get pummelled!)... I have observed on occasion that they are not in fact watching the game, but are watching us (read, Martin)! HAHA! It's a lot of fun, that's for sure! The ambiance is really what attracted us in the first place... (aside from the fact that we can't actually SLEEP anyway, since the live games here happen from 8pm until about 4am, and they happen to be RIGHT next door!) The community has put up a 'projection tv' in the churchyard(ie a white sheet stretched between the columns of the church entrance)... and everyone who's anyone in the community, from young to old, are there watching!

Speaking of which... I'm off... the match against England is about to begin, and believe it or not, Ecuador has a pretty great-looking team this year! (I do have another post that's in the works... there'll be more soon)...

back to class... not necessarily back to normal.

Well, after all that was afoot, Martin and I decided that we needed a break from the stress of Jogja. Well... going to Bali wasn't exactly the best solution. Who wants to be sick in Bali!? Anyway, that's the way it was... oh, and our new cellphone was stolen there also (we had it under a week). But Bali wasn't all bad... Despite the overwhelming number of tourists (even in the off-season with most countries having placed travel bans on Indonesia!), there is still something magical about the place. Whether it be the Hindu influence, or the stunning scenery, I can't say.

In any event, we are glad to be back to class, and back to a more stable existence (physically and almost, mentally).

Cecilia Fernandez (another CUSO cooperant going to Sulawesi) has arrived, and we're happy to have her smiling company here as well.

We hosted a party here at the language school last weekend... We got fed up with Indonesian food and it's lack of variety, so we made an Ecuadorian specialty (Ceviche and patacones) for 40!!! Mostly teachers and their families... they LOVED it... Good food, good music, good friends... it was a great time... and it is happened in the wake of an Ecuadorian football victory the evening before.

We are happy to be going to Manado to start that segment there... not only to have our own kitchen (and hence more control over what we're eating), but also just to see where it is we will be calling home for the next while! We will be leaving Jogja on Friday, and fly to Manado on Saturday!... although there was an earthquake there on sunday (sounds like it was far from Manado and there was no damage, but STILL!) -- Darn 'ring of fire'... it seems that there's an earthquake somewhere in Indonesia weekly!?

My dad wrote me to say that Merapi has grown by 1000'... I think it's possible that the volcano may have grown that much... the type it is, the lava just sort of boils up to the top and oozes over, so it doesn't really travel very far. We had a really cool view of it from the plane on our return to jogja... and we returned to Borobodur last week for our school field trip, and all of the forests around that area, and the temple itself, are white from the ashfall! But that's far from here, and there hasn't been any ash for a while...

As for the earthquake relief, we've just been concentrating on the language training since returning from Bali... there are sooo many foreigners in the disaster zone now that the Indo govt has requested them all to leave! So we're just butting out. We did visit the beach with some people from Realia this weekend, so we passed through the area we were working in, and we could see that people had cleaned up a lot of the rubble, and had begun the reconstruction phase... It's still a sad sight. The beach was deserted, black sand, a km of dunes before you reach the surf (which is wickedly mean, and we weren't allowed to swim... in case the queen of the south seas (the one who they're blaming hte earthquake on) was in a mood and decided to take us with her!?). It was fun to hang out with a couple of the teachers outside of class though... We also made a pancake breakfast this morning for a few of them (with the maple syrup I brought from home, which I must say has been a huge hit!)

I guess I've adjusted to the heat... The rain has stopped, so now I think we can safely say we have entered the 'dry season', which means temperatures seem more moderate also (less humidity). But in Manado it will be very hot... another few degrees hotter on average than here. I think I'll be longing for the cool summer evenings in Madoc before long, there! Well, maybe the fact that it's going to be MANGO season not long after we arrive will keep me going!?

Hellos... We're still alive, and ok... although we have been seeing some very heart-wrenching scenes.

We are just back to Jogja at 1am this morn... dirty and exhausted. Martin and I have spent the last week very active in lending our healing hands (and voices) to the relief effort to the south of here. We have been between Jogja and a posko (base camp) near Bantul and Parangtritis. The camp is run by a local NGO called Yayasan Gaia (Foundation Mother Earth) -- a very well organized partner supported by CUSO -- and has become the temporary home to many displaced, homeless families, as well as the logistical coordination centre for that entire area.

The destruction in that area is absolutely unfathomable... the damage in the city is nothing compared to some of the areas we have been working in -- whole communities reduced to rubble, where the only thing left standing might be the cow's shelter (because it was made from bamboo). I am not posting pictures, as I'm told the coverage in the Canadian media has been quite extensive, and it takes WAY too long!

Our contribution to the relief effort has been varied. I have been doing everything from visiting families and just listening to their stories, to dispensing pharmaceuticals, to building temporary shelters... but mostly I have been part of a mobile medical unit, providing medical attention to people in villages in the most harshly affected areas which are highly inaccessible, and have yet to receive much in the way of aid. The majority of the most serious medical cases had been taken care of, but the major problem at this point is that some major infection is starting to set in... people are wearing their bandages like clothes, not cleaning or changing their dressings, and with very sketchy sanitary conditions and precious little clean water, they literally can't take care of their wounds. The conditions in many of the temporary shelters are rudimentary at best, with little clean water and no 'systems' in place for disposal of waste... it seems to me they are a breeding ground for an epidemic, or outbreak of some kind.

On a more positive note, one of the most inspiring things I have seen as a result of this disaster has been the incredible sense of community that the Indonesian people share, especially in the smaller, more remote villages. During one of the medical visit that we made to a village in the hills, it was evident that the people had very little, and their supplies of food were running low, yet they work together, and take care of eachother. They have gathered into communal areas to ensure that everyone has shelter, and they cook whatever food they have and share it between them. The communities are rallying to rebuilt and provide support from within and not just relying on external aid.

I think one of the most frustrating things about the relief effort is that a disaster of this magnitude is a logistical nightmare... there are local NGOs, International NGOs and Foundations, and government and military from many countries, and then there are countless families and local organization that normally do not work in the sector that are taking donations... and everyone is trying to get aid out... but no one is able to coordinate an effort of this size! Many areas are seeing a great deal of cross-over, while there are STILL areas which have received little or no help.

Another frustration are the 'disaster tourists'... the people who come to gawk and take pictures, but not act. It is to the point that the local people have signs out saying (roughly translated) "please help us, don't just look at us".

As many of you know, we have only had about 3 weeks of language training, and our bahasa Indonesia is basic at best. We thought that this, compounded by the fact that, in the remote villages in which we work the people speak different dialects than we are learning, would mean that our inability to communicate would be a hindrance to our effectiveness in the field. It's not... people are patient, and we get by communicating in the international language of smiles and charades.

Martin and I have both come down with colds... no doubt from the combination of 'sleeping' out at the camp and not really being able to sleep for a week (I'm still waking up at the sounds of any slight rumble, or feeling any minor wobble). And it's not just my imagination... we're still feeling aftershocks from the earthquake a week later! It's hard not being with family right now, after such a scary event, and seeing so many people who have lost parts of their families. I am very thankful that Martin and I are here together. Anyway, we will not be spending anymore nights in the camp (even though that generally means we don't get back until 1 am still)... and today may be our last day anyway. we are thinking of going to bali for a little under a week to get away from this disaster zone for a space... we'll let you know! When I think of this possibility I struggle between feeling guilty thinking of many of the families we've met (they can't escape to Bali, let alone to Jogja for a shower... this is their reality) and the need to take care of our personal health and sanity.