Maiden Voyage of the Kalabia

Day One: Stormy tummy fun!
Day Two: Nothin’ but blue!
Day Three: Lost at sea!
Day Four: Can’t take any more!
Day Five: Still alive!
Day Six: More tummy tricks!
Day Seven: Feelin’ like unleaven
’d bread!
Day Eight: Home safe

I woke up on my birthday to the same unremarkable vista as the previous SIX days… open ocean. Honestly, knowing that the surface of the Earth is 70% ocean, and experiencing it are two COMPLETELY different things! On a map, Indonesia is all islands… and we were to be traveling right through the heart of it… I thought we would at least see a little scenery… nope! The progression of scenery changes were as follows: blustery grey rain-speckled water, steel-grey fog, blue calm, gray haze, gray sheets of rain, rolling ominous deep blue waves, whitecaps, the occasional glimpse of blue sky billowing white clouds and sunshine. Repeat daily. This was the view (well, of course, when it was raining and we were rocking and rolling, I didn't take my camera out, so this is the sun-shiny version of the view):



I came ready to see cetaceans… dolphins, porpoises, whales and the like… other than the unfavourable weather and scudding waves that obscured our sightings, when the weather WAS cooperating, sadly we spent more time identifying garbage than cetacean species! Well, we did see one bird:



and one half-decent sunset, on the last day:



(you can tell these photos were all taken from a boat, since i couldn't get the horizon level!)

At last we’re here! FINALLY, the boat that has been delayed over six months has finally arrived in Raja Ampat, and, with a few more repairs to hammer-out some issues discovered along the way, we should be up-and-running in no time! This will hopefully include fumigating the whole ship and eliminating the rat and cockroaches which woke me up with a start one night!



We had a small welcoming/launching ceremony in Saonek and Waisai, Raja Ampat. Just an official ‘we’re here’, and watch for us out at sea! And after a few days in Sorong, a supply trip to the new CI field station in Triton Bay, Kaimana, and a few more repairs… we should be off!





The Program's Motto: Berlayar Sambil Belajar means 'Sailing While Learning'.

Balinese Offerings



We're in Bali again, only briefly, but I don't think I've ever written about this wonderful part of Bali. The Balinese have maintained a very strong culture, even in the face of a great degree of western exposure (or maybe, especially because of such intense tourism). One of the interesting traditions that strikes me every time we come to Bali, and something that is still going strong in Balinese Hinduism is the thrice-daily offering to the gods. These colourful, aromatic offerings are found on every street corner, in front of every shop, and home, and in every temple around the entire island.

Although Balinese Hinduism is a very complicated religion, complete with several gods and demons, deified ancestors, etc, I have noticed, that, with small exceptions, the offerings are usually quite similar (or so I thought!), and everyone is involved in making them, and offering them. Usually, in small tourist shops, when the women aren't busy, they can be seen making the small offering baskets and adornments from palm leaves. Banten (offerings) are gifts to bring pleasure to, or appease, the gods (or demons), and they also provide good karma for all those involved in making them.

The offerings vary according to the nature of the ceremony, and the god for whom they are intended! When I thought I was asking a simple question for an explanation of the meaning of the components of these offerings... I realized NOTHING is simple! Right down to the colour of the components hold strong symbology. Red, green and white are the colours associated with Brahma, Wisnu and Siwa, three of the 'high' Hindu gods. Usually offerings consist of a combination of incense, flowers, lemongrass, fabric, betel nuts, arak (liquor), holy water, palm-leaf decoration, and food. Rice seems to always be present as well, appropriate I guess, since it is said to symbolize life itself. The only other part of the explanation I understood was that the water is a symbol for power and purity... and imagine... I speak pretty darn good Indonesian after a year and a half living here!

I think it's these offerings, along with the frangipani, of course, that give Bali that unique smell that always tells me I'm in Bali, and automatically makes me breathe easier.

Durian

Yes, it's an Asian thing... And NO, even after a year and a half, it still holds no appeal for me! Not even just that, but I find it utterly repulsive! The Indonesians don't think so; they line up for Durian, whether fresh, candied, juiced, dried, or any of the other flavour-mimicking products, like durian bubble gum, durian chewey candies, durian throat lozenges, durian soda, durian lolipops... the list goes on...

I did get a laugh out of the extent to which Indonesians are obsessed with Durian... when I was in the drug store, and saw these durian-flavoured condoms on the shelf! Luckily they're just imitating the flavour, and not the spikey exterior as well! Yipes!



Oh well, at least they're confections aren't stinking up the streets like the real thing when they're in season!

Banana Smoothies

A delicious treat in any tropical country is the Banana Smoothie! I don't really consider it an Indonesian discovery/specialty, because of course, we made them almost every day in Ecuador, and I love making them at home as well!

On our last visit to Max Ammer's Papua Diving resort, Sorido Bay, we had smoothies on the jetty at sunset. Everyone enjoyed them immensely, including...

Soeharto



Indonesia's former dictator of 32 years died last week. It has been said that he was one of the most corrupt and brutal rulers of the 20th century, but still the nation is respectfully marking his passing, and the official 7 days of National Mourning have now come to an end.

It's not often anyone lives to the ripe-old age of 86, especially in Indonesia... and even with a team of 40 doctors treating him at the end, with multiple organ failure and a drawn-out illness, it was simply his time.

Suharto managed a stronghold on Indonesia’s economic, political, social and cultural establishments from 1965 until he was toppled by a democratic uprising during the 1997-98 Asian financial crisis. Soeharto legitimized his dictatorship (or "authoritative style of rule", as it is called by some) with an economic success story for Indonesia, during which he won the heart of the poor the nation over... "Suharto loved me, Suharto took care of me", they say. Protests against his corrupt and repressive government in May 1998, then led to numerous allegations of human rights violation and corruption during his rulership and amongst his cronies.

The Soeharto corruption case has been postponed as the nation mourns. The government is seeking 1.4 billion dollars in returned assets and damages from Soeharto, and the Supersemar Foundation, a charity he previously chaired. The case - part of a renewed effort by the government to bring the former dictator to justice - alleges Soeharto oversaw the misallocation of money intended for student scholarships. The hearings are set to resume on February 12.

Oh yeah... and Happy Ground Hog's Day to my Canadian friends... did Wairton see his shadow this year???