Showing posts with label Galapagos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Galapagos. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Forbidden Fruit

It's a story reminiscent of the children's fairy tale of the witch offering the young beauty a poison apple... too fantastical to believe!  However if you munch on this acidic snack in the Galapagos, unless you're a giant tortoise endemic to the isles, the outcome is not that you'll fall into a long languid beauty sleep until prince charming comes to your rescue with a life-giving kiss, but more likely that, unless you get immediate medical attention including a stomach pump, you may die within 24 hours!



A Brazilian surfer friend of ours found out this harsh reality two days ago, and luckily is still here to regale everyone with his tale... (We don't know about the three young British vixens that offered him the forbidden fruit, saying they had been eating the fruits all morning - they boarded a plane the same day and we don't know if they ever realized that the 'plums' they thought had been crunching on all morning, were in fact, death apples!?)

There is a tree here in Galapagos called "Manzanillo" (literally translated from Spanish, the meaning is 'little apple' - in English it is called the Manchineel tree).  Hippomane mancinella is one of the most poisonous trees on the planet, and the only poisonous plant native to the Galapagos islands.  It's forbidden fruits resemble Granny Smith apples, in miniature, and certainly look juicy and tempting to any dehydrated hiker in the arid, scrub-brush, cactus landscape and rocky coastline of the islands.  The rounded leaves, grey bark and general tree-shape also look a bit like an innocuous apple tree, but alas, the giant tortoises native to the islands are the only species that can feed on the plant and not succumb to a bitter end.  In fact, this trees leaves and fruits make up a main part of the diet of the indigenous land-tortoises.  Some joke that perhaps this is why they are so wrinkled and gnarled.



Humans should not ingest the appealing, yet highly-venomous fruits - there are signs everywhere telling you so.  Many trees are even marked with a red X, and in many cases, especially in urban areas, the entire trunk that is within reach of human hands is painted over to avoid an inadvertent encounter.  If you obey the general rule on the islands of not approaching or touching any of the plants or wildlife, this tree  shouldn't be a problem.  But if you're curious, hungry/thirsty, or have a death-wish to tempt fate, and decide to take a bite, our friend tells us you can expect the following:  An extremely acidic, uncomfortable feeling in your throat, which them virtually swells shut. Stomach cramps and aches.  And, upon visiting the hospital and telling them your woes, immediate hospitalization, stomach pumping, enema, intravenous re-hydration and feeding through a tube, and 24-hours of uncomfortable surveillance waiting to see if the grim reaper is coming for you or not.

In fact, not just the fruits, but the bark and leaves (or the milky-white sticky sap it produces, actually) are also poisonous and causes an allergic reaction if you inadvertently rub up against it... It is said that even standing under one of these trees in the rain is enough to cause the skin to break-out in a violent red rash with blisters and boils!



Friday, February 17, 2012

San Cristobal, Galapagos

San Cristobal (or, more specifically, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno) is the capital of the Galapagos Islands Province of Ecuador.  I just had the pleasure of a visit from family (Bruce & Bobbi Currie and their friends' son, Roger) - We had a great time, and enjoyed the island - I think they were impressed with most things, except the sea lion stench that pervades the downtown area!

Dubbed "The Capital of Paradise", San Cristobal is a happy middle ground between the overly quiet, tranquil Isabela Island and the overly touristed, commercial Santa Cruz.  I think it qualifies for the adjective 'quaint', if such a thing exists in South America!

And not only quaint, but unique!  I'm sure there is no other place on earth where sea lions share the streets, marine iguanas lounge on the jetty and boobies dive-bomb the shores as freely and easily as they do here.


Only a short boat ride away are some of the most incredible encounters you can imagine...  talcum-powder soft white sand beaches abutting jet-black lava rock, swimming with schools of sharks, frolicking with baby sealions and floating in sea-turtle soup.








The natural surroundings are incredible... and the town itself is pretty nice too.  All that's missing is an ice cream shop, like seriously real, homemade italian gelatto type ice cream... hmmm....

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Spring Cleaning...

Hello all!

Well, It's been a while since I updated my blog, and I have a pile of drafts that need to get posted or chucked... so forgive the seeming lack of chronological or geographical order to the next batch of blogs (well, actually, they'll appear to be the most recent batch - between the end of November and January)...  As you can see from the map on the right, I'm working on this house-cleaning project from Galapagos, recently recovered from a bout with dengue which was not so fun and very lonely (especially after unexpectedly having to spend two lonely and frustrating weeks in Guayaquil immediately prior, which, as it turns out, was the cause of the dengue in the first place (there are no nasty dengue-carrying mosquitoes in the islands!)

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Sea Lions

One of my favourite things about the Galapagos Islands are the sea lions (or lobos marinos - sea wolves - in Spanish).  They are certainly ubiquitous on San Cristobal Island... and not only on the beaches and natural spaces.  It's not uncommon to look up from reading your book or having a nap on a bench on the boardwalk to see you're actually sharing your bench with a sea lion pup...



... or to gaze out into the turquoise waters from the jetty to see a sea lion floating along, basking in the sun...



... or vying for position on the jetty steps...




... and you know you're in a strange place when you go for a walk downtown, only to find yourself sharing the street with a sea lion as she saunters down the main drag!




The best place to interact with the sea lions however, is, wherelse, but "Sea Lion Island" (Isla Lobos), just off the west coast of the main island of San Cristobal.  Here you can snorkel with the sea lions and see them dipping and diving and summer-saulting... and have so much fun playing with them and soaking up their bubble-kisses!



Yesterday I spent an hour playing 'fetch' with a pair of lobos... they were playing just the two of them and I was hanging back smiling and watching, taking pictures... and then... you'll never believe it... they invited me to join in on their game!!!  No kidding!  They had been rolling around together passing a stolen dried sea cucumber between them, and kept getting closer to me, and although I was trying to keep my distance, they got so close as to touch me!  Then the one that I had been playing summersaulting with and had been giving me bubble kisses earlier, set the sea cucumber down on the sand and looked up forlornly as if he were in desperate need of a playmate... then motioned for me to pick it up... so I did!  I mimicked their play, then tossed it back to them... and this back-and-forth exchange went on and on!  What fun with these intelligent beings!



I've seen them taunting sting rays and marine iguanas in the past as well... It's obvious that the interaction was not to harm them, but just in play!



Last month at Isla Lobos we experienced an interesting stage during the sea lion lifecycle... for several weeks after the pups had been born the big daddy macho kept them all corralled in the area I call the 'nursery'.  Then one day, they were allowed out to play... and they were the at the cutest stage ever!

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Hammer-time!

If swimming with dolphins is good for the soul, diving with hammerheads is certainly good for an adrenaline rush!


We're rarely disappointed when we dive at Leon Dormido (Kicker Rock)... Although they're not always there in massive schools like you would find up at Darwin and Wolf, the hammerheads are always around.  They seem more shy, and we don’t always see them.... But we have been seeing them almost daily for the past several months!  And there were out in force today - a school of at least 20 of them!  Their thick, muscular bodies never cease to impress me.  And their ridiculously-shaped heads always remind me that it’s better to design for function than beauty.  




They weren’t the only impressive things on this set of dives; In the tranquil channel between the two segments of the Sleeping Lion, we saw at least 50 Galapagos sharks, and the usual array of fusiliers, blue-eyed angel fish, wrasses, puffers and nudibranchs.  On the western slope is where we found all the action, including a slight current.  This is where we spotted the hammerheads on 4 different passes as well as a graceful school of 8 eagle rays, and a congregation of huge green sea turtles who seemed to be doing a courtship dance.  Hanging out at 15m on the western slope we also observed a massive school of hundreds of chevron barracuda and several yellowfin tuna jetting by.





The water was a chilly 19oC, but we didn’t even realize we were numb because it was such an exciting dive!

The visibility left a bit to be desired, but even so I managed to get a few nice shots, and one video... 



Best Fishes,
Ange


p.s. you can be part of the action!   www.tranquilodivers.com

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Dolphin Love

I don't think that there is anything better for the soul than swimming with dolphins in the wild!



We had a magical day sometime last week... a school of hundreds of bottlenosed dolphins were teasing me throughout our snorkel at Kicker Rock... I was hearing their clicks and squeaks... but couldn't see them, and everyone thought I was nuts-o because they couldn't see them either... but when we got into the boat, there they appeared right at our side... so I slipped back in, and it seemed they were happy to have another compatriot, as they continued to play as they had been, and we got some up-close-and-personal dolphin love!




p.s. you can be part of the action!   www.tranquilodivers.com



Sunday, May 08, 2011

Out of the Blue!

Sorry... I just realized that last post was rather out of the blue for most of you!  And then I forgot to POST this post - hahaha!  So here it is almost a month later - more on the last month to come!

A quick update:

I spent until mid-March in the Galapagos with Martin, enjoying the enchanted islands, trying to figure out the best ways to run our little dive business, luxuriating in the sun sand surf and sharks and sealions, and being frustrated over both our visa issues!

Enjoying the sea breeze on Isabella Island


Curious baby sealion allowed out to play for the 1st time!



Mid-March I arrived back in Indonesia, with a teeny stopover in Florida to see my parents in their fabulous new digs and enjoy a special belated birthday dinner and some delicious strawberry shortcake together!

Best birthday dinner ever!


yummmy!


I specifically came back to Indonesia to support the filming of our education program by a Swiss TV documentary - it was a great success, and I can't wait to see the program!  They agreed that it is probably the most important program for conservation of this phenomenally biodiverse area, and we all think this film will do wonders for funding the future of the program... fingers crossed!  I have also had a great deal of opportunity to work with the Kalabia and do some more training with the education team since being back.

Students gather outdoors with Kalabia at the end of the jetty


Then, and as a result of that week of filming, I had the incredible opportunity to be aboard the MV Pindito for her first ever Whale-Macro Journey, which was informational, inspirational, fun, and all-round absolutely fabulous!

Sunset over Pindito

Sunday, March 13, 2011

The Sleeping Lion

The Sleeping Lion (actually Leon Dormido in Spanish, and for some reason known as "Kicker Rock" in English) just off the Island of San Cristobal in the Galapagos is one of the most impressive formations on these enchanted isles...



This is the view of the 'other side' of the sleeping lion... from Puerto Grande...


Neither of these above photos shows the lion sleeping... but if you get it on the right day, and the right time of day, with the right lighting, from the right angle, (and have the right imagination), you can sometimes see it...

This is the best I've been able to capture it...

Saturday, January 01, 2011

Galapagos Dreams - An Announcement!

Many of you might already know by now that Martin and I are starting a little dive business in the Galapagos... Tranquilo Divers!



I've been working on the website (a lot of learning involved!) - check it out: www.tranquilodivers.com

I just wanted to let you know that if you're starved for my blog (which I've been neglecting a little because of this new focus, and also because I know about the dire internet connection I'm going to have from the Galapagos)... you can also check out the blog that I'm maintaining for Tranquilo Divers:

http://www.tranquilodivers.com/Tranquilo_Divers/Blog/Blog.html


Wish us luck!!!

or better yet...

COME DIVING WITH US!