Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Forbidden Fruit

It's a story reminiscent of the children's fairy tale of the witch offering the young beauty a poison apple... too fantastical to believe!  However if you munch on this acidic snack in the Galapagos, unless you're a giant tortoise endemic to the isles, the outcome is not that you'll fall into a long languid beauty sleep until prince charming comes to your rescue with a life-giving kiss, but more likely that, unless you get immediate medical attention including a stomach pump, you may die within 24 hours!



A Brazilian surfer friend of ours found out this harsh reality two days ago, and luckily is still here to regale everyone with his tale... (We don't know about the three young British vixens that offered him the forbidden fruit, saying they had been eating the fruits all morning - they boarded a plane the same day and we don't know if they ever realized that the 'plums' they thought had been crunching on all morning, were in fact, death apples!?)

There is a tree here in Galapagos called "Manzanillo" (literally translated from Spanish, the meaning is 'little apple' - in English it is called the Manchineel tree).  Hippomane mancinella is one of the most poisonous trees on the planet, and the only poisonous plant native to the Galapagos islands.  It's forbidden fruits resemble Granny Smith apples, in miniature, and certainly look juicy and tempting to any dehydrated hiker in the arid, scrub-brush, cactus landscape and rocky coastline of the islands.  The rounded leaves, grey bark and general tree-shape also look a bit like an innocuous apple tree, but alas, the giant tortoises native to the islands are the only species that can feed on the plant and not succumb to a bitter end.  In fact, this trees leaves and fruits make up a main part of the diet of the indigenous land-tortoises.  Some joke that perhaps this is why they are so wrinkled and gnarled.



Humans should not ingest the appealing, yet highly-venomous fruits - there are signs everywhere telling you so.  Many trees are even marked with a red X, and in many cases, especially in urban areas, the entire trunk that is within reach of human hands is painted over to avoid an inadvertent encounter.  If you obey the general rule on the islands of not approaching or touching any of the plants or wildlife, this tree  shouldn't be a problem.  But if you're curious, hungry/thirsty, or have a death-wish to tempt fate, and decide to take a bite, our friend tells us you can expect the following:  An extremely acidic, uncomfortable feeling in your throat, which them virtually swells shut. Stomach cramps and aches.  And, upon visiting the hospital and telling them your woes, immediate hospitalization, stomach pumping, enema, intravenous re-hydration and feeding through a tube, and 24-hours of uncomfortable surveillance waiting to see if the grim reaper is coming for you or not.

In fact, not just the fruits, but the bark and leaves (or the milky-white sticky sap it produces, actually) are also poisonous and causes an allergic reaction if you inadvertently rub up against it... It is said that even standing under one of these trees in the rain is enough to cause the skin to break-out in a violent red rash with blisters and boils!



Friday, February 17, 2012

San Cristobal, Galapagos

San Cristobal (or, more specifically, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno) is the capital of the Galapagos Islands Province of Ecuador.  I just had the pleasure of a visit from family (Bruce & Bobbi Currie and their friends' son, Roger) - We had a great time, and enjoyed the island - I think they were impressed with most things, except the sea lion stench that pervades the downtown area!

Dubbed "The Capital of Paradise", San Cristobal is a happy middle ground between the overly quiet, tranquil Isabela Island and the overly touristed, commercial Santa Cruz.  I think it qualifies for the adjective 'quaint', if such a thing exists in South America!

And not only quaint, but unique!  I'm sure there is no other place on earth where sea lions share the streets, marine iguanas lounge on the jetty and boobies dive-bomb the shores as freely and easily as they do here.


Only a short boat ride away are some of the most incredible encounters you can imagine...  talcum-powder soft white sand beaches abutting jet-black lava rock, swimming with schools of sharks, frolicking with baby sealions and floating in sea-turtle soup.








The natural surroundings are incredible... and the town itself is pretty nice too.  All that's missing is an ice cream shop, like seriously real, homemade italian gelatto type ice cream... hmmm....

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Spring Cleaning...

Hello all!

Well, It's been a while since I updated my blog, and I have a pile of drafts that need to get posted or chucked... so forgive the seeming lack of chronological or geographical order to the next batch of blogs (well, actually, they'll appear to be the most recent batch - between the end of November and January)...  As you can see from the map on the right, I'm working on this house-cleaning project from Galapagos, recently recovered from a bout with dengue which was not so fun and very lonely (especially after unexpectedly having to spend two lonely and frustrating weeks in Guayaquil immediately prior, which, as it turns out, was the cause of the dengue in the first place (there are no nasty dengue-carrying mosquitoes in the islands!)

Monday, December 12, 2011

Bunaken again

Back in October, I had a chance to briefly visit the family that I spent a lot of time with while living in Manado/Bunaken...  It was great to see old friends and make new memories with the Kasehungs...  Ma and Pa are a little older, with Ma having lost most of her sight to cataracts, but they're both still as spry as ever, and going out to feed the 'ghosts' on a daily basis!  (they still tell everyone about my little language-learning slip-up!)

The town of Alung Banua is still as quaint and lovely as it ever was, but some change has been happening there as well - they have running water in their homes and school!  The pace of life is still slow, although I did experience on disappointment... I remember it as an island lacking the annoying motor sounds of the cities and towns on the mainland... now Bunaken has many motorcycles and even a few trucks as well!



Vera and Ellen and I went for a walk around the island and visited their seaside farm area... Lots of change there as well... someone has built a resort (several bungalows) on the property adjacent to theirs, and in doing-so has proceeded to rip out the natural breakwater what existed in the mangroves and along the coast, already causing huge amounts of erosion!  The unbelievable thing is that this is a Swiss foreigner, who, "should KNOW better", as Vera said!!!  They were both visibly upset by this hideous encroachment on their island... and with the response (or lack thereof) that they've received in response to their please to the owner for more sustainable development.  "What are we striving for and teaching... as locals, we care for our island, and then these foreigners just come in and do as they please!" they lamented.



One new experience for me was going with Vera and her brother out to 'the racket' - what fun!


Tuesday, December 06, 2011

Fishing with Kaca Molo in Rauki

Rauki village has a pretty decent house reef.  After the snorkeling activity with the students, they were taken home for lunch, and I decided to stay in the water for a bit and swim back to the ship later.  I met up with this youngster looking for fish with his traditional 'kaca molo' (dive glasses)...



These 'coke-bottle' glasses have frames carved from wood, with coke bottle bottoms set in... They leak like crazy and are not very comfortable, but they seem to work for the locals!

Thursday, December 01, 2011

Training wheels?

This little gal seemed oblivious to the fact that her wagon was a little worse for wear!?

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Pretty leaf?

Found this stowaway aboard the ship... And would have passed it by allowing it to remain an inconspicuous leaf, had it not been for the strange attitude it maintained (hanging upside-down from the roof)...  I had to really take an angle on it to get a shot to show the head and legs!  Nature is amazing at mimicry!



You can check out his ginormous cousin and some of the other related critters I've put on my blog before as well!