Coral Mining

The education trip aboard the Kalabia in September was inspiring and devastating at the same time...

When we took the kids of Kabare snorkeling, it was difficult for us to find an area of decent reef - an area that had not been ripped up.  Once we did find a spot, it was dominated by fragile, branching-type corals... not the massif corals that make up the foundation of healthy reefs, and also, as it turns out, good solid foundations for houses.

The scale of the coral mining was unprecedented... scary.  And even scarier was the AWARENESS and apathy.  Just a few hundred metres away from where we took the kids snorkeling were piles of coral ready for loading to bring to shore... When we asked the people that came in the boat to pick it up if they were aware of the impacts of coral mining, their answer lead us to believe that they were at least partially aware of how devastating it could be for the community if the reefs were completely ruined.  They said those were the last ones, and that the community had decided to stop the coral mining, but yet they continued.

In each of the villages we visited in North Waigeo, the streets were lined with piles of coral that had been pulled up from the reefs and were set to become roads, streets, foundations and walls...

In part I blame the Indonesian government poverty index which holds as one of their indicators the type of houses families live in - wooden houses are for the poor and cement houses are for the rich it says.  The ironic thing, in my opinion, is that from a safety and comfort standpoint, these houses aren't the best or most practical for the local element... Wooden homes are much cooler and allow for some air circulation in this over-heated environment.  I remember during the Jogja earthquake, going around afterward as part of the medical mission, and seeing entire communities of flattened brick and cement homes, with the only shelters left standing being that of the cattle, because they were made out of flexible bamboo which withstood the earthquake!?

Hopefully this new generation of Raja Ampat youth, with the influence of our program, will not only have a better understanding of the devastation coral mining causes, but also care enough about it to stop the practice!  This goes for all the issues facing conservation as far as I'm concerned... including the unsustainable development practices and lack of facilities I've blogged about before in these past blogs:

- Mayalibit Bay, Development, Transmigration and Kalabia

- Why Sigh? - The new capital of Waisai and its garbage problem

- Division - Transmigration slated for Papua

- Avatar - Similarities with the Papua situation

- Kaliyam & Wailebet - Forest Destruction, Turtle Consumption and Fish Bombers

- Transmigration Woes

Wasior Disaster

There should be no doubt about the cause of this disaster.  It is not a 'natural disaster', it can't be attributed to 'climate change'... it could have been avoided.

Unfortunately Indonesia doesn't think ahead.  The governments don't heed glaringly obvious warnings, and the dollar signs in their eyes make the environment fall by the way-side, even when it means the welfare of the people they are charged to serve and protect is put at risk.  They just cut the trees, rape the forests, build completely ridiculous road systems and destabilize watersheds so that a simple heavy rain ends in hundreds of lives lost, thousands displaced, and a city in ruin.

I was supposed to be arriving in Wasior this month as part of the Kalabia education trip to Cenderawasih Bay.  I was just discussing the situation in the Bay with some colleagues who had recently returned from a survey trip there (they were doing genetic studies on marine species, surveying for new previously-undiscovered species, and identifying potential areas for marine tourism development, but they couldn't help but see the destruction of the marine environment that was going on as a result of activities on the land surrounding their study sites)!  I was enquiring about conservation issues that we should focus our education program for the area on.  They had just finished telling me that the story there, even though Cenderawasih Bay is a National Park, is no different from the situation all over the rest of Papua, and indeed, most of the lesser-inhabited areas of Indonesia... uncontrolled, poorly-planned development, combined with rampant illegal exploitation of natural resources (illegal logging, mining and land-conversion)... then the breaking news story of a disastrous flood and mudslides burying the main town in the Bay hit the news.

We postponed our trip, as it is an inappropriate time to visit while the town and regency is dealing with a disaster of this size... Current counts (as of yesterday, 2010/10/10) have 144 dead, but another 161 missing and feared dead, over 1000 injured, and the entire town's population of over 5000 displaced (most evacuated to nearby cities due to lack of access to clean water and fear of additional flooding if rains continue).  It's a small town, but it is the capital of the main regency in Cenderawasih Bay, Wondama.

As conservationists, and educators, we definitely want to capitalize on the moment to turn it into a learning experience... be sure that the message gets through:  destruction of the natural environment holds nothing but disaster.  But we don't want to be insensitive, so we are postponing until the trauma experienced by the people there settles, they can get their homes, and their lives, back.

Of course, the 'aid' effort is committing all kinds of serious errors as well - like 'handing over 2 billion Rp in cash' to aid the recovery of the disaster... yeah, how much of that money do you think will actually get to the people who need it!?!

Anyway, there is a positive light in this story... there are a few local aid organizations from other areas in Papua who are being driven by their hearts and not their wallets to help with the recovery.  A small group of doctors and nurses called MerC have arrived to tend to the wounded, and several others are making collections of clothing, etc, for evacuated survivors.

The problem of course, is that the people responsible for this disaster aren't affected at all.  They are so far away from the sites that they are affecting...  cozy in their posh Jakarta homes, sitting on their padded pockets, watching it all on the latest flatscreen high-def television.

The climate of corruption is so thick in Indonesia it permeates every level.  There exists in Indonesia the equivalent of what we call an Environmental Impact Study (it's called an AMDAL), but it can be bought... and bought for peanuts when comparing the potential income from a large gold mine, or a large harvest of hardwood.

Thailand Trip - No Crabs in Krabi!

Although during our trip to South Thailand's Krabi Province we were battered, bashed and bewildered, we also enjoyed phenomenal natural Beauty and ended our trip with Bells on … literally  … 

We were on the overnight train to Bangkok on Sunday night… and I thought we would “be there with Bells on”….  just like at all the Buddhist temples... we bought little bracelets with tiny bells on.  But I was WRONG – mine fell straight down the toilet (train tracks/railroad ties speeding by – gotta love train toilets… ) – no hope of recovery… so just Gabby arrived with bells on!  The sleeper train was a pretty great way to travel, though... kill two birds with one stone - no hotel and travel concurrently!  It was actually very comfortable.  Getting there was somewhat comical, however... being bumped from bus to boat to cattle truck to bus to van in a well-coordinated series of transportation designed to get you where you need to go on time.  Unfortunately I was remiss in taking a picture of the many colour-coded stickers that go along with this system - we looked like a kids sticker book by the time we got to the final leg of transport!

We certainly had our figurative bells on, and our karma revved up from our Krabi visit!  Our long weekend included the search for the most beautiful beach on earth… along with the throngs of drunk 17-year old Auzzie tourists who were at Koh Phi Phi Island in southern Thailand this weekend.  Actually, we were lucky to have ‘the beach’ to ourselves… I guess the 17-year olds all had hang-overs, so when we dragged ourselves out of bed at 7 am to charter a private boat, there was not another soul around – and we ended up with the place to ourselves.  And as soon as the big power boats and hoards started arriving, we high-tailed it out of there, having had our fill and a very special experience!

Getting in and out of 'the beach' was the challenge, as we had to swim in from our boat through a different access point, which consisted of waves crashing over barnacle-covered shallow rocks, and clambering up a cliff... hence the 'bashed and battered' status at the end of the weekend!

We did go on one very touristic ‘day tour’ to "James Bond Island" (aka Koh Phing Kan and Koh Tapu), among other sites… which was also very beautiful, if touristy.  I find it incredible how a 1970’s James Bond movie could make hundreds of tourists flock to this little limestone island daily… I don’t find it that much more beautiful or stunning than any of the other hundreds of limestone karst outcrops in the area of Phang Nga Bay National Park.

... although I guess it's the draw of taking part in that 'classic' James Bond photo shoot...

The day tour included kayaking around the caves, mangroves and 'rooms' of Tham Lod and Koh Hong.  The kayaks slip into the cathedral-like rooms via a small hidden entrance - ceiling-less cave walls drip with green ferns and orchids.

Then it was off to lunch at Panyee Floating Fishing Village (reminiscent of the Bajo or Bugis villages of Indonesia, and probably of the same origin as those 'sea gypsies').  Obviously this is not my pic, since our tour did NOT include an ultra-light trip around the bay to see the islands from the air...

In Panyee we also had baby monkeys thrust upon us with the demand of 100 Thai Baht (4 CAD!) to take pictures with them, without the option to decline... Funny money-making scheme...

We donated one dollar, and moved on to look around the funny markets set up exclusively for tourists...

HOW a tourist is going to transport a preserved porcupine fish back home in their luggage and through  customs is a mystery to me!?

On the way home we stopped off at the 'monkey cave' temple, Suwannakuha Temple, a beautiful Buddhist cave temple with extensive stalactites, stalagmites, and monkeys, as well as a stunning reclining buddha statue!

We received a blessing from the monks - both live, and animated, and headed back to our 'marshmallow' (the term of affection we referred to our little guest house in Ao Nang, Baan Purr).

Another day we found ourselves on a hidden beach (having been directed by a geocache!)... no access except by boat, or by negotiating monkeys on a rickety staircase along the cliff (our point of entry)!

... yet another day up to the "Pee Pee Viewpoint"...

The best part about the whole trip was the reunion, after seven years, with Gaby!!!  Oh, and the food... Thailand has amazing food...everywhere!  I mean, there are a few Indonesian dishes that I really like, but in Thailand everything is more flavourful!  What I don't understand is why they don't pick this up in Indonesia - I mean... they can grow exactly the same produce and ingredients... Anyway, Gaby was a fabulous food guide, showing me around to "the best pad thai in the world" (although it was a bit of an ordeal, we finally got there!), "the best curry in the world" (its called masaman), "the best chicken in the world", "the best toast in the world", etc, etc!!!  Oh, yes, and she knows her Thai beers as well!

We started our food-fest in Krabi, the land of the coconut shakes (delicious!!!)!

Shark Sadness

I know shark finning has been a big topic of discussion over the last few years...  it's big problem, especially as we see these species essentially becoming extinct as a result of it.  I still haven't seen it (haven't been able to find it in Indonesia!), but I know the documentary film Shark Water refocussed attention on this issue a couple years ago again.  So why still only discussion?  I guess too much money at stake.

It is sickening to me to see:

Illegal poaching of shark fins in Raja Ampat - an area supposedly declared for shark protection (or at least no shark fishing at ALL) just two years ago...

... and shops like this in open operation in the middle of the international airport in Jakarta (on my last transit there)!

The price tag on this fin was 1000 USD!

In a recent discussion about the issue Martin and I were lamenting that the only real way to put a dint in the problem is to work on targeting the market, because let's be honest, if the demand is there, the poor fishermen have little choice but to provide for the market...  So a hard-core education program/campaign is needed in places like Hong Kong, Singeapore, and other major Asian shark-fin consuming nations.  Well, I see just today that Shark Savers are doing just that with their campaign "Pledge to not eat Shark Fin Soup" - kudos!

Another kind of 'floating school'

There are lots of more serious problems with the education system here in Raja Ampat and in Indonesia in general… But I must say, it surprised me, when we went to the virtually new village of Waisilip (created to be the seat of the local district in 2001)...




The school floods at even the slightest rain.  Many people refer to our boat-based environmental education program as 'the floating school' or the 'floating education station'... but now that phrase takes on a whole new meaning!

It's no wonder, actually.  The entire village area is sitting on reclaimed land from mangrove swamps.  Nature always wins and takes back what's hers.  The surprising part is that the design and development of this village was done in complete and total ignorance!?  The school is brand new (no more than 5 years), but no one can go to school if it rains... which it does for about 6 months of the year.

This was only a light afternoon shower... just imagine once the rainy season really hits!?

FLOOOOD!

I'm not talking about anything on the scale of the New Orleans flood, or the Jakarta 2002 floods where hundreds of thousands were displaced from their homes; there was no heart-wrenching footage of entire families taking refuge on a make-shift raft as their roof gets swallowed by water... but last week our staff house flooded!

This is the first time we've had flood issues since being in Indonesia, but according to friends it had to happen sooner or later (most have experienced floods, and some on several occasion)! "Everyone has to have an Indonesian flood story to take home", consoled Cecilia!

In fact, the situation wasn't THAT dire... it was just the series of factors that came together: high tide ("so", in terminology I adored, a coworker said "the sea was full"), major garbage problem in Sorong (ie. blocking the gutters and sewers, and more devastatingly their outlets to the sea), heavy rainfall (duh!?), and a low-ish lying property. But the worst that happened for us was that a few things got a little wet... but they probably needed a good washing anyway (luckily nothing electronic)!

Of course, then yesterday it *almost* happened again... when I realized it had been raining on a torrential scale for quite some time, I rushed home to 'guard' against the floods (how does one do that exactly!?)... when I arrived the water was already surrounding the house in a dirty brown moat, and not a speck of the patio was showing, but it hadn't quite reached the doorways. After raising everything up off the floor and out of harm's way (including the clothes which were not quite dry from the thorough wash they got after the last event!), I spent two hours running from the front to the back doors, checking on the 'current situation' and readying 'dykes' at the doorways - haha!

The rain slowed, and we were safe... this time. Let's hope this isn't us in the future!

Hi all!

Just a quick note... got news that there was an earthquake in North Sulawesi last night (phone call in the middle of the night from CUSO checking on our safety and security!)... we weren't there, and we're fine! There was actually no damage in Manado, and all our friends there are fine... they said it was just a little tremor.

Survived another one!

You've probably all heard the news about the 7.3 earthquake here in Manado last night. Although it was scary and strong and looong, there is no major damage and very few injuries. We were at the gym -- I had just stepped off the treadmill, and when it first started, I wasn't sure if it was my legs that had turned to jello from running... then I realized, and got OUT of there!!! It lasted for almost a minute, but was a liquidy, side-to-side motion (not like the jolting and jerking in Jogja); the ground just seemed to turn to jello beneath our feet!

The craziness began with the panic which ensued when the news stations issued a tsunami warning! We also decided best to be on the safe side and went to a friend's house which is on the size of a mountain. We are ready for another, staying alert, but not getting caught up in the panic.

Just so you know, thankfully, we're ok.

back to class... not necessarily back to normal.

Well, after all that was afoot, Martin and I decided that we needed a break from the stress of Jogja. Well... going to Bali wasn't exactly the best solution. Who wants to be sick in Bali!? Anyway, that's the way it was... oh, and our new cellphone was stolen there also (we had it under a week). But Bali wasn't all bad... Despite the overwhelming number of tourists (even in the off-season with most countries having placed travel bans on Indonesia!), there is still something magical about the place. Whether it be the Hindu influence, or the stunning scenery, I can't say.

In any event, we are glad to be back to class, and back to a more stable existence (physically and almost, mentally).

Cecilia Fernandez (another CUSO cooperant going to Sulawesi) has arrived, and we're happy to have her smiling company here as well.

We hosted a party here at the language school last weekend... We got fed up with Indonesian food and it's lack of variety, so we made an Ecuadorian specialty (Ceviche and patacones) for 40!!! Mostly teachers and their families... they LOVED it... Good food, good music, good friends... it was a great time... and it is happened in the wake of an Ecuadorian football victory the evening before.

We are happy to be going to Manado to start that segment there... not only to have our own kitchen (and hence more control over what we're eating), but also just to see where it is we will be calling home for the next while! We will be leaving Jogja on Friday, and fly to Manado on Saturday!... although there was an earthquake there on sunday (sounds like it was far from Manado and there was no damage, but STILL!) -- Darn 'ring of fire'... it seems that there's an earthquake somewhere in Indonesia weekly!?

My dad wrote me to say that Merapi has grown by 1000'... I think it's possible that the volcano may have grown that much... the type it is, the lava just sort of boils up to the top and oozes over, so it doesn't really travel very far. We had a really cool view of it from the plane on our return to jogja... and we returned to Borobodur last week for our school field trip, and all of the forests around that area, and the temple itself, are white from the ashfall! But that's far from here, and there hasn't been any ash for a while...

As for the earthquake relief, we've just been concentrating on the language training since returning from Bali... there are sooo many foreigners in the disaster zone now that the Indo govt has requested them all to leave! So we're just butting out. We did visit the beach with some people from Realia this weekend, so we passed through the area we were working in, and we could see that people had cleaned up a lot of the rubble, and had begun the reconstruction phase... It's still a sad sight. The beach was deserted, black sand, a km of dunes before you reach the surf (which is wickedly mean, and we weren't allowed to swim... in case the queen of the south seas (the one who they're blaming hte earthquake on) was in a mood and decided to take us with her!?). It was fun to hang out with a couple of the teachers outside of class though... We also made a pancake breakfast this morning for a few of them (with the maple syrup I brought from home, which I must say has been a huge hit!)

I guess I've adjusted to the heat... The rain has stopped, so now I think we can safely say we have entered the 'dry season', which means temperatures seem more moderate also (less humidity). But in Manado it will be very hot... another few degrees hotter on average than here. I think I'll be longing for the cool summer evenings in Madoc before long, there! Well, maybe the fact that it's going to be MANGO season not long after we arrive will keep me going!?

Hellos... We're still alive, and ok... although we have been seeing some very heart-wrenching scenes.

We are just back to Jogja at 1am this morn... dirty and exhausted. Martin and I have spent the last week very active in lending our healing hands (and voices) to the relief effort to the south of here. We have been between Jogja and a posko (base camp) near Bantul and Parangtritis. The camp is run by a local NGO called Yayasan Gaia (Foundation Mother Earth) -- a very well organized partner supported by CUSO -- and has become the temporary home to many displaced, homeless families, as well as the logistical coordination centre for that entire area.

The destruction in that area is absolutely unfathomable... the damage in the city is nothing compared to some of the areas we have been working in -- whole communities reduced to rubble, where the only thing left standing might be the cow's shelter (because it was made from bamboo). I am not posting pictures, as I'm told the coverage in the Canadian media has been quite extensive, and it takes WAY too long!

Our contribution to the relief effort has been varied. I have been doing everything from visiting families and just listening to their stories, to dispensing pharmaceuticals, to building temporary shelters... but mostly I have been part of a mobile medical unit, providing medical attention to people in villages in the most harshly affected areas which are highly inaccessible, and have yet to receive much in the way of aid. The majority of the most serious medical cases had been taken care of, but the major problem at this point is that some major infection is starting to set in... people are wearing their bandages like clothes, not cleaning or changing their dressings, and with very sketchy sanitary conditions and precious little clean water, they literally can't take care of their wounds. The conditions in many of the temporary shelters are rudimentary at best, with little clean water and no 'systems' in place for disposal of waste... it seems to me they are a breeding ground for an epidemic, or outbreak of some kind.

On a more positive note, one of the most inspiring things I have seen as a result of this disaster has been the incredible sense of community that the Indonesian people share, especially in the smaller, more remote villages. During one of the medical visit that we made to a village in the hills, it was evident that the people had very little, and their supplies of food were running low, yet they work together, and take care of eachother. They have gathered into communal areas to ensure that everyone has shelter, and they cook whatever food they have and share it between them. The communities are rallying to rebuilt and provide support from within and not just relying on external aid.

I think one of the most frustrating things about the relief effort is that a disaster of this magnitude is a logistical nightmare... there are local NGOs, International NGOs and Foundations, and government and military from many countries, and then there are countless families and local organization that normally do not work in the sector that are taking donations... and everyone is trying to get aid out... but no one is able to coordinate an effort of this size! Many areas are seeing a great deal of cross-over, while there are STILL areas which have received little or no help.

Another frustration are the 'disaster tourists'... the people who come to gawk and take pictures, but not act. It is to the point that the local people have signs out saying (roughly translated) "please help us, don't just look at us".

As many of you know, we have only had about 3 weeks of language training, and our bahasa Indonesia is basic at best. We thought that this, compounded by the fact that, in the remote villages in which we work the people speak different dialects than we are learning, would mean that our inability to communicate would be a hindrance to our effectiveness in the field. It's not... people are patient, and we get by communicating in the international language of smiles and charades.

Martin and I have both come down with colds... no doubt from the combination of 'sleeping' out at the camp and not really being able to sleep for a week (I'm still waking up at the sounds of any slight rumble, or feeling any minor wobble). And it's not just my imagination... we're still feeling aftershocks from the earthquake a week later! It's hard not being with family right now, after such a scary event, and seeing so many people who have lost parts of their families. I am very thankful that Martin and I are here together. Anyway, we will not be spending anymore nights in the camp (even though that generally means we don't get back until 1 am still)... and today may be our last day anyway. we are thinking of going to bali for a little under a week to get away from this disaster zone for a space... we'll let you know! When I think of this possibility I struggle between feeling guilty thinking of many of the families we've met (they can't escape to Bali, let alone to Jogja for a shower... this is their reality) and the need to take care of our personal health and sanity.

Thanks for everyone's concern -- we feel very lucky for ourselves, yet are saddened by the amount of destruction that the Indonesian people have had to endure.

There have been over 540 aftershocks reported ... but we have only felt about 7... one was apparently 5.4 on the Rikter scale! Things have slowed down though, and we haven't felt anything since yesterday at noonish.

When we tried to go to some of the more affected areas yesterday to lend what assistance we could, the military stopped us (probably because we are not affiliated with any of the official aid organizations). They are not allowing any non-essential travel into the area... probably because they don't want roads jammed and blocking the flow of aide/supplies. There are many people who live in Jogja who have not yet been able to contact their families that live to the south of the city to find out if they are ok... and many others who have been in contact, and are trying to take supplies directly to their families. Since the airport has re-opened we have seen a flood of supplies come into Jogja... my fear is that it is all being stockpiled in warehouses, and the distribution to those in the greatest need has been sparse. This is why we would like to give aid directly to the people in the disaster areas. It doesn't feel right that we are continuing on with our language training when people so near by are in a state of emergency... we have many willing and able hands here... I am trying to get in touch with the local Red Cross or other organization to DO something. It seems there's enough supplies and money coming in... what they need is manpower. There are people lined up like crazy waiting for medical attention, and they are turning away people with minor injuries... Maybe my first-aid skills would come in handy!?

today we have decided to venture further afield... we feel that we're in a safe little bubble and from what we're seeing and hearing, the devastation less than two kilometers away is unimaginable...

last night we didn't sleep very soundly... with every little sound or movement we woke with a start to stare at eachother (not needing to say it, but wondering... uh oh... is this another??? do we need to make the move, grab our pre-packed emergency bag and head for what we've decided to be our safe haven (a small field/soccer park across the street devoid of any overhanging threats that could fall)? and there were tremors... but nothing too substantial. the most haunting thing was the intense electrical storm that was going on overhead... lightening, which at first wasn't accompanied by thunder or rain... when the thundering began it's growl was too similar to the sound of the earthquake to allow us very much calm. i wondered if such heightened activity might be a sign that an erruption was pending...? anyway, at our homestay, we decided that a better indicator might be the behaviour of the cats... they seem to have some ultra-sensitivity to coming phenomena, no? haha.

we hope to find some organized relief efforts underway on our sojourn into the disaster zone... and will try to lend a hand where possible. will let you know more upon our return.

We're safe... Unfortunately the same cannot be said for everyone in this area of Indonesia... The latest reports are that the death toll has passed 3000, and the number of people injured is far more.

We were awoken with quite a start at 5:54 this morning by an earthquake that is said to have measured 6.2 on the Rikter scale! The quake lasted at least a minute (some reports are saying up to a minute and a half), but felt like forever...

Martin and I had been considering going to the beach this weekend, but are feeling very lucky to have stayed in town... although there is damage in town, it's mostly in the south, and the area we're staying in (north) is very well constructed and there was little damage, or I should say no MAJOR damage. The epicenter was about 26 kms from here, and the province to the south of us was hard-hit and is where the most damage (and deaths) have occurred... in a town called Bantul.

The actual experience was pretty insane... scary! Imagine being woken from a dead sleep to the house moving all around you, a horrific, unidentifiable sound, and the bed shaking like crazy (even though you didn't put in a quarter!). With all the talk, and focus on the volcano for the last while, we thought perhaps there had been an erruption, or that it was something to do with the volcano. Although neither Martin nor I have been that close to a volcanic erruption, it just didn't seem like it could be that... we felt it for a whole minute... and was a LOT of motion... we quickly got dressed and got out of the house... people were chatting in the streets, but our "IBU" ('house mother') told us earthquakes happen, it's just that they're not usually so strong and long... so we went back to bed. At about 8 the "Ibu" came running in the house, yelling that we were all going north... the streets were JAM-packed (even our 'quiet' little street) with people heading north (coincidentally TOWARD the volcano!?) to borobodur, and higher ground... there was a rumour spreading that a tsunami had hit and that the water had already arrived in jogja!? I told the ibu that we were not going, that it didn't seem like the best course of action to me, and that even if there were a tsunami the water would not be here (at least not by then)... but i think with the tsunami so fresh in everyone's minds, they were very reactionary... we came to Realia to find out it they had some more sensical information, and then just hung out... there have been 5 aftershocks that we have felt, but nothing so substantial as the 1st!

We have decided to stay close to home, and so have not seen any of the devastation that we are hearing about... there are houses with rooves caved in completely, and a hospital where the same happened... the glass is blown out of many buildings, and there are crevasses in the streets, heaving of pavement, and, of course, many injuries as a result of it all.

Tonight, there are people in the streets, sleeping in church/mosque-yards, and in FRONT of their houses...

Sorry for not getting word out sooner, but there was no power/internet/phone in most parts of the city until recently... or if there was, the lines were jammed! Although, you probably can get more up-to-date information there (!!!)... that's the most dis-quieting thing from our end!

May 15

This afternoon Martin and I walked to a bridge from which the view of Merapi is supposed to be spectacular… First off, we were told that it was about a twenty minute walk…. 1.5 hours later we arrived at the bridge… and let me tell you, we weren’t going at any snail’s pace! Anyway, we have learned quickly not to necessarily believe the entirety of what Indonesians tell you… not that they misguide you intentionally… but in their culture, if you ask them a question, they feel compelled to give you SOME answer… and so they tell you SOMETHING, even if they don’t necessarily know… they are very helpful…

Anyway, when we arrived, the entire horizon was full of smoke… Today, Merapi has had two eruptions, and even though last night molten lava could be seen spewing from the volcano, we can't really see the volcano at all anymore. Apparently the Australian embassy has evacuated some people from Jogja, but that is because they are overly paranoid of having more Aussies die in indo (after 200 died in bali bombings)... we will be fine. I think, Bro, that lava may travel at 100km/h, but only in a huge eruption, and maybe only for a shot time... regardless, the current scientific report is that the main flow will go to the opposite side of the mountain than we are on... because of the lay of the land. Also, a journalist I spoke to this afternoon told me that he was within four kilometres of the volcano a few hours before, and apparently the lava had travelled almost two kilometres from the vent, but not via eruption, but more just overflowing the edge of the crater. For more Merapi information, you can visit my friend Chad's (another student at Realia) blog at: http://www.mountmerapi.blogspot.com/

Another interesting tidbit of Indonesian culture is that when someone asks you if you have done something/ been somewhere/ met someone, etc, etc… the answer is always, not yet, or gives the impression that it is a possibility, or something that will happen sometime in the indefinite future… They never just say no. For example, when Martin asked someone if they had ever been to Bali, his response was “No, I haven’t been to Bali YET”… or, in the more unlikely, but funny example… today someone asked me if I had ever been to the moon… in Indonesian, the invariable answer is, “No, I have not yet landed on the moon!”

So, I have not yet met the president, been to every corner of our planet Earth, nor grown my own garden…. but the Indonesians give me hope that this may someday come to pass!

Our homestay is a room in a house... Ibu Dihar is the ‘Mother’ (Ibu) of the house. We eat brekkie there, lunch is provided at Realia, and dinner we find on our own (usually in a street stall or “Warung”. We don't sleep with a mosquito net, and haven't see too many mosquitos. We did see a rat, though… much to my chagrin… It entered the room of the other (Australian) couple living at Ibu Dihar’s… it entered via the window, and so we have not once left our window open (and we keep the door closed always)! There are also many harmless salamanders and geckos living in the cooler cement corners of the house. Our ‘home’, as with most mid-to-upper-class Indonesian homes we have seen, has a central courtyard with a few plants and a small pond which is home to many goldfish.

We have now been in Indonesia for almost two weeks, but are just getting 'settled' into the first phase of our stay here... Until now we have been in constant motion/turmoil/upheaval! -- Dealing with Martin's last-minute travel issues (apparently if a S.American transits more than once in Europe, they need a visa... even if they're not getting off the plane, or staying for more than 2 hours! -- but he's here safe and sound at long last -- what a joyful reunion!) We've been: -- Getting over some serious jet lag (we're on the other side of the world, with an 13 hour time difference to Madoc, Ontario and 11 to the Galapagos!) -- Acclimatizing to the intense heat and humidity (it is upward of 30 C daily, and VERY humid) -- getting paperwork in place, moving from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, doing our "in-country" training and cultural training.... and of course, trying to see as much of every place we find ourselves!

Once we arrived in Jogja (the way the locals refer to Yogyakarta), we stayed 4 days in Duta Guest House, a truly gorgeous hotel (NOT how we think of hotels... more like a spa resort) with traditional Javanese hospitality. The island of Java is known for it's warm and hospitable people, and we have been the appreciative recipients of lots of smiles from helpful (and patient!) Javanese! It housed lovely gardens, and a pool in a natural setting in the courtyard, to help keep us cool. While staying at Duta with KoemKoem (CUSO Indonesia's Program Assistant who was escourting us through the adaptation process), she took us to see many of Jogja's curiosities. My favorite thus far was an incredible (and CHEAP!) open-air market area than spans about 5 city blocks... it carries everthing from batik clothing, to silver jewelry, to food, to medicinal plants... she gave us a very thorough tour, explaining about everything along the way, including the natural malaria-fighting plants (mostly bitter roots to drink as tea... I guess the mosquitos don't like bitter blood!?) We have also visited the Sultan's palace (yes, the city still maintains it's own king!), Teman Sari (Purawisata - The Water Palace), and eaten at every variety of restaurant and street vendor in town!

On Thursday we started language training at “Realia” in Yogyakarta. It’s going to be very intensive… and more so, because usually the “fall-back” language is English… but with Martin not speaking much English, we are using a mix/I’m translating… so I have many languages swimming around in my head. It's really nice here though, and we get free internet access any time there's electricity (!). We have classes Monday to Friday, 3 sessions of 2 hours each, with rotating teachers. And at least once a week, we go on a 'field trip' to a local attraction, to test ourselves in situ. We can also use the buildings and garden on weekends to study or hang out.

Our move into a homestay situation coincided with the start of our language course. We are living only 2 blocks from the language school in a neighbourhood called Pandega Sari that is a dutch-colonial left-over… apparently this is one of the coolest areas in the city, but I still find it stinkin’ hot! We are on the northern outskirts of the city, and can see Mount Merapi from here (the volcano set to erupt any day now)… there have been warnings out for months, and until yesterday it seemed to be ok… only the odd puff of smoke could be seen escaping from the conical giant. Apparently the local people living on the slopes of the volcano are doing all they can to appease the god of the volcano… they feel that the eruptions of the volcano and the subsequent devastation are a result of something they have done to displease the god, and cause them to fall out-of-favour with him. They are offering daily sacrifices of animals and harvest foods (but no humans, as used to be practiced) to appease him. The 'warden' of Merapi (an elder from one of the communities on the slope of the volcano) is the one who makes the call to evacuate or not... even though there are many vulcanologists studying the volcano, the locals believe that the spirits speak to this man, and look to him, not science, for guidance in matters of the volcano.

It seems that Merapi is still not appeased with all the offerings of the locals... it's on the move: yesterday we saw a great deal more smoke coming from the central vent, and there have been tremors, and apparently even lava flow. Today, the Australian couple who is staying at our homestay came back for their binoculars saying that there was major action up above. Jogja is over 30 kms from the volcano, so we should be safe... but don't worry... we'll keep our eyes and ears open!

Ok, the food... man is the food cheap!!! ... we ate a lavish dinner last night with many courses, etc, although not in an upscale restaurant... it only cost us the equivalent of 2 dollars! The night before we ate a simple meal at a "sit-on-the-floor" street stall for fifty cents each. And because everything is cooked out in the open, in front of you, it seems fairly safe as well. There is plenty of spicy food, which suits me just fine, but Martin is getting a bit sick of it. We have tried almost all the different kinds of juices and fruits that we can get our hands on... so far my favorite is 'snake fruit', called salak in indonesian. Our favorite fruit shake (avocado) even exits here... but with a chocolatey twist! And Mom, there are LOTS of mangos!

The Indonesian government recognizes 5 religions officially, with 90% of the population being practicing Muslims. Yesterday, we had our first encounter with Buddhism here... and talk about the perfect day to do it!!! We went to the Temple of Borobudur, a UNESCO world heritage site, and one of the most renoun Buddhist sanctuaries in South-East Asia... and it just happened to be Waisak -- the celebration of the Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death.... the biggest Buddhist holiday of the year! The site itself was incredible, and the fact that hundreds of thousands of people from all over were completing their pilgrimage that day made that much more special... We were 'special guests' (although we have no idea how we obtained that special status...), so had free passes to entrances to all the temples, guided tours, and access to all the VIP areas, and food, etc! We followed the path of Buddha's life, and climbed to the top of the temple (which was actually built wrapped around a hill) to touch the feet of the Buddha for good luck in life. I came home with a bit of a sunburn, but feeling pretty good about the world.

Ok, we're off to the apotek (drug store) to get some cream for what looks like a heat rash that's developing on my wrist... uugh.

Hope all's well in Canada... keep me updated!