Rambutan - The hairy fruit



All Indonesian fruit seems to be so wonderfully textured, inside and out! This is one of my favourites -- Rambutan. Rambut means hair in the Indonesian language... so you can see where they came up with the name!

Unlike Durian, which it shares a season with, Rambutan is delicious! It's actually very much like lychee; it's white flesh is sweet and wrapped around a large oval pit.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!


A post and a pic to say Happy Christmas and Merry New Year to you all from Martin and I! It's hard to be away from home for the holiday season; we're missing friends and family a LOT! I'm missing WINTER, too... But I'm hoping you'll have a ski, a toboggan and a snowball fight (and maybe even make a few snow angels) for me!

And a side note: we won't be having turkey for Christmas dinner (since it's super expensive if you can even FIND it... and then, we'd have no oven to cook it in anyway... an who would even want to bake in this heat!?!) So please have some turkey and stuffing and think of me too!

But, hey, there's always roasted bat... they come in packs of two for 20,000Rp at Hypermart!

Another trip to work:

After writing our initial short story, we were asked to put ourselves in the shoes of someone observing us along our way to work and write in the 2nd person. This is from the stance of one of the schoolgirls outside a school I pass daily if I am going to work at the Bintang Laut office:

Here comes the BULE again…. Wow, that hair is so beautiful….

Hey, I’ll run and get the other kids… let’s see if she smiles and gives us the same response as every day if we call out to her… Screw mathematics, this is bule-hassling time…. Besides, I’m sure our teacher won’t mind… she usually comes out and stared with the rest of us as the Bule passes by… “Hello MISTER!”

“Bule!” “Bule!”
“Hallo Bule!”
Maybe she can't hear me, better YELL just to make sure... "BULE!"

Where is she coming from…. Does she just come to our little neighbourhood to hang out… What do those Bintang Laut people actually DO? I want to hear her funny accent again… guess I’ll have a chance tomorrow. How can I get hair like that?

My trip to work...

As part of a creative writing workshop that made up one of the conference sessions we were asked to write a short story about our daily trip to work… I thought I would share mine with you… now that I’m finally back at making one (a daily trip, that is…)

My journey to work changes each day. Depending on the work location I may find myself from simply walking or taking public transport to participating in more of a triathlon…

To go to Bunaken Island for instance… Because of the limited public transportation options, we are forced to start the journey the day before we actually teach at the school. I pass through our local neighbourhood with it’s manicured churchyard and houses with high gates behind which a few people can be seen working in their gardens.

I ride the cramped blue bemo jostling through the busy streets of Manado city to arrive at the seaside market from where the public prahu (boat) to the island departs.

As I saddle down the darkened alleyway at high noon, it is a test to see how long I can hold my breath. The mingling scents of fish and rotting mango with the salty sea air are the perfume of this dockyard.

I descend the harrowing stone steps that have been all-but completely eroded by the tides, and hesitantly step onto the wooden gangplank. I tentatively put one foot in front of the other while gripping the prickly rope above my head for extra support.



I straddle the sacs of rice while trying not to crush an old woman’s already wilting water spinach, and I’m into the cool, shaded haven of the prahu… the boat is over-crowded with people, their children, and their fish. It is a slow, rolling trip through the wavy sea to Bunaken Island. But the trip isn’t over upon reaching the island of course, because this boat only goes as far as the village, and the Education Centre is on another beach. It is possible to walk, but it is at least 45 minutes fast hike, and usually the prahu pulls in to the village just before dusk; I’m not usually up for a night time bushwacking trip!

So, as the last leg of the journey, I hop onto a local ‘ktingting’ (a tiny narrow boat carved from a single tree trunk, with two bamboo wings out the sides for stability, and powered by a compressor motor with a propeller the size of my travelling alarm clock!). The brightly painted 3-seater is the perfect place to watch the sunset from; this is my favourite part of the trip to the Environmental Education Centre where I work.

Seeing the sense underlying the madness!

We are slowly learning that the apparent chaos that is Indonesian society and everyday life, in fact has a very efficient system.

Take the vendors, for example. Until now, we have just felt like the streets, and our neighbourhood, are crawling with random people, carts, vehicles, etc, selling their wares. This cloud of noise and motion was completely separate and apart from our existence… other than the fact that they begin to wake us up at about 5 every morning (and there is no snooze button)! The only one among them that seemed to be consistent was the icecream man – usually on bicycle, and always playing the same jingle over and over and over! In fact, they all have a unique noise or call which indicates what they have to offer. A selection of the regulars include: The veggie man who uses what I think of as a circus horn (you know, black rubber bulb, shiny silver bell) mounted on the helm of his scooter, which he sounds on an even beat for the length of the street; The bakso boy (bakso is noodle ‘meat’ball soup) who pushes a cart and gives a little tink-tink against one of his bowls with a metal spoon; The rujak man (and this can sometimes be a woman, selling an interesting version of ‘fruit salad’, which is usually sweet and sour, and topped with LOTS of red sugar) who has a higher-pitched metal-on-glass-tink; and The trusty fish lady who simply yells “Ikan (read, EEEEEK-AAANNN)”, but whose presence is usually foretold by the scent which wafts ahead of her (or the flies???) as she saunters down the street.

The bakso boy's cart.

This, combined with the church-bells next door, a far-off mosque’s chants, the twittering of birds in our mile-high-grass lawn (much to the chagrin of the neighbours), and the incessant hummm of motor-scooters, is the orchestra of our neighbourhood.

Indonesian Money

The likeness of Indonesian paper money is striking in its resemblance to Canadian bills, and Monopoly money. The bright colours make it a pleasant experience to open my wallet and find a rainbow inside (if I've been to an ATM recently, that is). And the designs include important Indonesian figures and culturally significant locales around the country.

Indonesian currency is the Rupiah (Rp). I don't really know which is my favourite denomination... Depends on the situation, I guess. When I am riding a bus, it's the 1 000 (seribu) note, because unless I pay with it, the driver will surely not have change!

I like the funky pinkness of the sepuluh ribu rupiah(10,000) note, but one has to be extra careful not to confuse it with the seratus ribu rupiah (100,000) note which is a barely-distinguishable shade darker red.



Sepuluh ribu rupiah

With a value of just under a dollar, the 10,000Rp note it's quite handy. 10,000Rp can buy you:

- 2 loaves of bread
- 10 mangoes
- A complete dinner at a warung, or 2 at a kakilima (street vendor)
- 2 iced cappuccinos
- 41/2 rides on the "Malalayang" bus to my work, or to anywhere in the city
- 2 hours at a 'regular' internet cafe or 1 hour at the super-duper-highspeed
internet ZONE on the fourth floor of the Mega Mall

Necessary Instructions!?

This is just a quick post to share something that I found hilarious... I wonder what the other folks in the washroom thought I was doing as I laughed my head off in my stall!?!



The picture above was the sign above a "western" toilet in a pretty swank washroom (as far as washrooms go in Indonesia)... You wouldn't think that it needs instruction/explanation... but when this is your normal toilet.... maybe you can see the connection.

NEW PICS!!!

HI ALL! I can't figure out how to upload video clips... sorry to disappoint... but I have posted a few pics to the online photo gallery: Check them out!

Hope all's well at home!

Poisonous Sea Urchins: A Nasty Encounter



I wandered down to the docks after a celebration in another island community. All the children from the entire village were gathered there, swimming and playing in the super-clear water. Of course, I couldn't help but jump in and join them... After getting over their initial shyness of this strange new creature, the kids swarmed me. We played a bit in the water, but when I went to get out, the fun was over. In order to climb back up to the dock, I chose the wrong footing on the wooden uprights... I didn't know what, but SOMETHING pierced my leg... OUCH! When I got out of the water (by way of a different route), I had the venemous black tips of 10 or more sea urchin spines in my shin! YIKES! I've heard stories about people that've been stuck by this particular variety of sea urchin and they're never very nice... as a result I'm always super careful not to touch or even go near them... uuuggghhh....

Well, everyone seemed to have a different take on the best method to 'cure' me, but I decided to go with the advice of the elder who was actually from the village... he didn't have any teeth, but he was still going (at age 70+!)... seems like a reliable source of local knowledge. So, he whisked me off to a nearby hut and ordered some hot water... meanwhile he pounded the embedded spines with a blunt piece of bamboo... o.k....? He explained that if you splinter the tips into bits, then apply a VERY hot compress, supposedly the poison comes out on its own and the shards are dissolved and absorbed by the body... o.k...? I was somewhat skeptical of this magic, but ok... what choice did I have? What do you know... within moments the pain had subsided, over a few hours some of the black spots began to disappear, and less than a day later, there is no sign that I had ever been through the trauma!~

Beetlenut

I have yet to actually try it myself... luckily I have yet to be formally offered (as it would be a true social no-no to refuse)! Pinang, or beetlenut, might be the South-East Asian equivalent to chewing tobacco, but natural and untreated. It is a reddish-brown slimy nut encased in a green husk. The villagers rip off the husk with their teeth to get to the inner-goodness which inevetibly turns their mouth and teeth bright orange! There isn't much funnier than the men of the village looking like they're wearing lipstick! Chewing this 'nut' into a pulp produces a natural high, although it is said to have the added bonus of strengthening teeth... HOWEVER, every elder I see chewing it has a mouthfull of awfully stained, rotted out teeth!

First Day in Papua

First Day in Papua

Although it's true, we'd been in Sorong a couple of days prior, the following is a story from what I feel I can really call my first day in Papua.

I should preface this little tale with some context: We arrived in Sorong, W. Papua for our 1st site visit in the middle of a very busy and very exciting time. The areas in which we will be working with Conservation International (CI) are in the process of becoming Marine Protected Areas (MPA). The region has long been identified as extrememly rich in biological diversity and a target for protection... however only now is it receiving official designation. We were invited, as part of the CI team, on the inaugural celebratory tour of this achievement.


At 11:30 pm the siren sounded and we lumbered out of port.

As small groups played raucous games of dominoes, a couple of guys strummed their guitars and belted out tunes ranging from english classic rock (including Tiffany! and of course Brian Adams) to traditional Papuan songs. At this point the whole ship came alive with voice - gorgeous harmonies sprang from various groups from bow to stern and our tour came to life.

As we chugged along, things settled down and most people tried to find a quiet corner in which to curl up and hunker down for the night.

Our vessel, called the KLM (not the Dutch airline, but instead Kapal Layar Motor (motorized sailing ship)) Nur Alif is, or was, a 30 m fishing boat, charted by CI for this most special event. The official crew are a group of about 6 swarthy young seamen, and everything one would expect them to be. The unofficial compliment are ~40 CI staff, other NGO staff, reporters, politicians and us, 2 lone CUSO cooperants, set for the adventure of a lifetime. Most of our cohorts haven't even ever been to some of these remote areas on the agenda, so our tour of Raja Ampat is truly feeling more and more special.



The decks are scattered with ropes of various thicknesses, the chains all rusted and the wooden planks of the deck are set apart at varying widths and in various states of disrepair... the captain with his yellowing eyes couldn't be a more fitting character to pilot this ship.

This first night aboard was nothing if not eventful.

As we trundled along through the blackness of night at sea, my lullaby became the chugging and sputtering of the engine and the waves slapping against the hull as we sliced through it. I was almost asleep in my cramped berth (tastefully decorated with posters of cheap women) when there were alarmed shouts, a grinding, popping and BOOM! I, of course, wonder if we've hit one of the numerous small rocky islands which may or may not be on the map. Did the lookout fall asleep?; Are we going to sink? How far away is help?... "Martin, que paso?", I asked... figuring he is the ocean guy, he should know. He ineffectively tries to reassure me and goes to investigate. Well, it turns out that in an effort not to hit a smaller boat, the captain veered hard and in doing so, broke the steering mechanism! Clink, clank, hammer, bang.... no, I'm pretty sure I didn't get much sleep after that! After repairs were complete, we were back on course... but it was getting really hot inside and to make matters worse, I had to pee!

So, my trip to the WC is a story in and of itself! I finally decided there was no holding off until dawn and made the perilous journey... Martin and I were sharing a very tight berth and it happened to be an upper one, and I was on the inside! I carefully tried not to disturb him as I crawled over him in the 1 ft of head space above our wooden nest, I spidered down from the top bunk, also taking care not to step on the sleeping figure below. As I go out the portal I realize this is to be the greatest challenge: not to step, or fall, on people as the boat rocks and sways! Luckily there is only one body on the narrow walkway to the back of the boat. In the open area there are more, many more... on sleeping mats on the floor and on benches (not comfy enough to sit on!). Tangles of limbs loll from hammocks and I try to avoid all of this as I clamber down rickety steps to the bowels of the ship.

When I finally find the bathroom... it's a hole in one of the wooden floor planks. Below, looking into it, you can see the beautiful aquamarine water in the daytime... this 1st experience though, was just accompanied by darkness, the sound of water rushing by and cockroaches crawling from the cracks.

I ran the gauntlet of bodies and limbs back to the captains bridge, and just before ducking back into our closet, a shimmer in the water caught my eye. This is one of my absolutely favourite phenomenon; I was put into a trance by the dancing lights of what looks like millions of fireflies underwater, but is in fact phosphorescent plankton. Not 30 seconds later I was brought out of my trance by a dolphin leaping at the bow of the ship... then another. As they play in the bow wake, they stir up the phosphorescent plankton and leave trails of light in the water -- absolutely mesmorizing! To heighten my dreamlike state, I see that this glow in the water below is mirrored by the brilliance of a night sky saturated with stars.

We awake in a whole new world. The sun rises slowly and gently, matching our pace, both of waking and cruising. As the sun bathes the surrounding islands, I begin to really underatnd the term remote: We are surrounded by lush, tropical jungle... green dripping from the shoreline. There is not a sound of civilization; no busses, trucks, horns, crowds... no "Hey Mister"!

We enter a channel only three times the width of our boat and wind our way along white coral fossil cliffs. Eventually they open up to become a huge bay, the ecology of which is incredibly unique due to it's formation which is more of a saltwater lake. It's the only place in Raja Ampat where white dolphins are found, among other interesting critters. We don't happen upond any of them this time, but we do watch flying fish skip along the water, the sun shining off their long slender bodies... we also see birds swooping and skimming the water's surface.

The pace of the day picked up from this lazy, surreal existence when a longboat bearing a musical welcoming committee motored into sight. They were a stunning sight: dressed in traditional outfits, their black skin contrasted with their dried grass skirts, they played guitars and drums, belting out rhythmic Papuan songs.



This was merely the beginning of what turned out to be an incredible celebration. We were greeted at the docks by another welcoming party -- more music and dance and a ceremonial blessing... a few of us had wreaths of intricately-woven exotic flowers and plants put over our heads and were guided arm in arm in a lively dancing procession to the main area of the village. There were speeches and signings, the symbolic exchange of beetlenut, and then a delicious seafood feast. It couldn't have been a more fabulous day... and the rest of the tour was just as fabulous - a great start to what promises to be an incredible adventure.

It's mid-November... Thanksgiving, 'fall colours' AND Hallowe'en have all blown by without my realizing that it's FALL in Canada. Because here, it's all the same. Although the rainy season apparently 'wants to start', it has yet to darken our doorstep.

That is not to say that big things are happening with us here! I am writing to you from PAPUA!? So, to say that in itself is not enough... I should mention that we are on the "Bird's Head", Raja Ampat, in the province of West Irian Jaya, on the west half of Papua New Guinea. We're still in Indonesia... but it's truly another world.

The last few weeks have been incredible. The culminating celebration of fasting month (puasa) in the Muslim faith is called Idul Fitri, and this year it fell at the end of October a short time before the CUSO Conference in Bali. It denotes the biggest time of year for Indonesian holidays... so we took off early from Manado. We first visited our friend Cecilia in her swank (if temporary) home in Makasasar (also on the island of Sulawesi, but at the Southern tip). We spent a lovely 4 days there... lazing in breezy pools, tripping into a cool hillstation called Malino, and even a day-trip to a nearby island!

So, with almost two weeks to go before the upcoming CUSO Cooperant Conference, the three of us headed from Makassar to Bali. The days flew by... and although we had plans to go island-hopping throughout NTT (Lombok, Komodo and Flores), given that the friends with whom we wanted to meet up there were off galavanting in other parts, we decided to hold off on exploring that part of Indonesia for a time when they will be there to provide us free accomodation (!)... so we constrained our trip to Bali.

We went back to Ubud, enjoying the rich cultural scene there, including attending a kchek performance... The awesome power of this dance is overwhelming. There was a national kchek with over 5000 participants held at the end of September to send a message of peace to the world. After seeing the small-scale version we did I can imagine it was an effective message! There is no musical accompanyment in the kchek -- bare-chested men sitting in a circle around a firey candalabra provide the momentum to the dance and the story... the rhythmic chants of chek, chek drive the dancers. I am going to try to upload a video which you will be able to download and watch if you'd like to see a snippet. The culmination of the evening was a fire dance/fire walker... a man in a trance so deep that he didn't feel the searing coals as he danced over them!

Lots of beach time and a few novels later, Cecilia and I decided that we would leave Martin playing in the waves (remember, he is a die-hard surfer and waves are truly non-existent in Manado) and see more of the island. We rented a motorcycle and hit the road. But of course, the roads here... well, it's not like driving in Canada. 1) Indonesia falls into that half the world that drives on the LEFT 2) there are no apparent 'road rules'... and 3) it's PACKED! Anyway, we overcame all these obstacles, and more, and had a fabulous tour. We wove our way throught hte mountains, and got to see what we felt was more f the 'real bali'.

After that it was off to the Cooperant Conference which hopefully I'll get a chance to write a bit more about later! Now, I'm consumed by Papua!

Durian

I forgot the food bit... so here's a quickie!

I really can't fully comment on this spikey tropical fruit because I still have yet to overcome the repulsion that came along with my first exposure! Durian is certainly unique, with a STRONG personality... or stench as some might say. While we were still fairly new arrivals in Indonesia, and doing our language training, I was trying anything and everything new... until I tried Durian juice. One sip was enough to make me ill. I am told that as a 'fresh fruit' it is an entirely different taste sensation, but I just haven't been able to bring myself to try! In the evenings as you walk along the sea-front boulevard, it is the overpowering smell of Durian that ensures you remember you're in Indonesia, and not, say, back in the Galapagos!

Adventure awaits!

A long-awaited, much-anticipated entry… or maybe you’ve all given up on me since I’ve been so lax in the ‘blogging’ department!?

Since Martin and I will be heading out of Manado on Friday for an extended period of time, now seems an appropriate point to give a quick update on recent happenings, and overview of where we’re headed! And maybe a word or two on some more gastronomical delights (time permitting), considering it does seem to be developing as a common thread throughout this blog!

After our month of fun with the kiddies in Bunaken, we came back to home-base and began to look for ways to go back there! In other words, we’ve been looking for donors, and writing proposals to search for more funds in order to run a longer, more complete program on the island. So the last two weeks have been spent bringing Bintang Laut into the IT-age… I have been making a webpage for the organization (of course, I had to make them an email address first!) – which you can feel free to check out in Bahasa Indonesia or in English if you so desire. We have had some success locally; it seems that the NSWA (North Sulawesi Watersports Association – a ‘cooperative’, if you will, of dive and tour operators in the area) is very interested in us and our ideas, and have tentatively agreed to fund an ongoing immersive environmental education program!

So, where are we going on Friday??? Well, first stop: Makassar to visit our friend Cecilia (also a CUSO Cooperant) and buka puasa (break the fast) for Idul Fitri, the culmination of the month-long holy month of Ramadaan in the Muslim faith. The inverse of the rest of Indonesia, Manado is 90% Christian, so although there is a Muslim population, Ramadaan has not had the effect on daily life in Manado as it has in most of the rest of the country. Cecilia said that any store selling alcohol in Makassar was forced to close for the month, and even non-Muslims tend to adjust to a different rhythm during the fasting month. We will only have 4 days in Makassar, but it will certainly be interesting to be there for the fiestas at the end of Ramadaan, as well as to see Cecilia’s digs and meet some of her co-workers.

From Makassar, the three of us will fly to Bali. We have 2 weeks before the CUSO Cooperant Conference, and we have no defined plan as yet. Martin is craving waves, considering there are NONE in North Sulawesi, but other than that we don’t have any constraints… We will hopefully tour some of Nusa Tenggara, and at least go visit the dragons on Komodo (what… you thought dragons were mythical creatures?)

The CUSO Conference is being held in Seminyak, just north of Kuta (the tourist trap) in Bali… on the beach! After a week there, we fly back to Manado for 2 days (just long enough to do our laundry!) and then head to W. Papua New Guinea (where we will spend a LOT of time next year) for our orientation with Conservation International.

Phew! I imagine after all that, it might be a few days before I get it together enough to post again, but I hope you’ll all stay tuned! And keep on commenting, or emailing! – It’s great to know that so many people are keeping tabs on us, and to get news from home! Haha!

Enviro Ed



We're halfway through our month of Environmental Education programming on-site at the Marine Environmental Education Centre (MEEC) on Bunaken Island. It has been both challenging and refreshing. It is a wonderful reprieve from Manado to be living on Bunaken almost full-time... it’s a completely different reality than living in the city. It’s not dirty, stinky, or suffocatingly hot; there’s no traffic, other than the odd small prahu (boat) and of course, one can never complain by being awoken by the sound of waves rolling up onto the beach.... aaaahhhh. Water is a slight problem on the islands in general, so bathing is a challenge, and I'm considering either dreadlocks or a buzz-cut for the sheer convenience... But the real challenge is actually still the language. Seems there are at least 5 different words for naming any given species that we might see or be studying during our outings… and I’m sure you’ve not forgotten that these reefs happen to have among the highest incidence of biodiversity on the planet (not that I’m complaining – the diving is INCREDIbLE)… so, let’s just say that’s a LOT of new vocab to ingest!

The students are SOOO thrilled. This style of learning is a far cry from what they are accustomed to in their schools on a daily basis. They can hardly believe that they get a day to come on an adventure and EXPERIENCE the world they live in instead of being lectured to about it... and still call it learning. This, compounded by the general happiness it brings them to interact with a BULE... they all leave with broad smiles on their faces!

Tofu-mania

Tofu is found everywhere in Indonesia – however, the inherent health benefits that it usually is thought to have are over-ridden by the fact that it is ALWAYS fried.

Tahu Isi is my most recently discovered version of this yummy snack… It literally means tofu contents…. and it’s just that – a chunk of tofu filled with veggies (grated carrot and cabbage, and sometimes, if you’re lucky, bean sprouts).


Moto


One of the first phrases in Indonesian that Martin and I learned was “tanpa moto” due to the fact that moto is also ubiquitous in Indonesia. Moto is MSG, and it is used anything-but-sparingly in all manner of food... in fact, the only food that is sure not to contain moto is fruit.

The aptly-named snake fruit, or salak, is one of our favourite choices… it’s cheap, deteriorates less-quickly in the equatorial heat than most fruits, it’s peel-able (always a bonus to fight the invisible nasties that may be lurking in markets), and it’s funky.

THANK YOU CENTRE HASTINGS!!!!!!

I just read an email from the PR folks at CUSO Canada to say they received a cheque from CHSS for 500$!

Some students at CHSS organized a fund-raising dance-a-thon in support of CUSO as a project for their Leadership course. Obviously the event was a success! I would love to hear more about the actual dance… wish I could’ve been there to watch y’all bust a move! Everyone at CUSO (including me!) is really impressed that highschool students are interested in International Development and applaud your initiative!

Great work guys!!!

Diving….

We FINALLY have been diving for the first time here in Bunaken… It’s nice to finally actually SEE what we’re here working toward the conservation of! And in truth we have Naeema to thank for that… had it not been for her visit, we would probably still be dry! We did 5 dives, including one night dive (a first for Naeema).

I’m toting a reef id guide everywhere with me, and although it doesn’t help much in learning the Indonesian names for everything I’m seeing, it certainly makes me appreciate how diverse the waters here are.

I have posted a couple of underwater pics for those of you interested in corals and sealife…

City-living

We found a house before becoming homeless and just in time for Naeema’s visit!

After a long and frustrating search for a house we have finally signed a contract… It may be in the city, and far from what we were envisioning when we began this whole adventure, but it is where we will be calling home for a significant amount of time…. and we can certainly house any and all of you who want to come visit! (Yes, it’s large – far too large for just two people… but that doesn’t mean there’s any plan to change that status immediately!)

We will actually have our first house guest help us move in!!! Naeema arrives the same day we are set to take possession… and I’m soooo excited! We haven’t seen eachother for 5 years (since graduating from Queen’s together in 2001) and I am thrilled she is able to come all the way from Dubai for a visit on her holidays!

Creambath

I would like to extol the virtues of another of our new-found pleasures called a “Cream-bath” (aka hour in heaven). This is not literally a full-body immersion in a tub of cream, as we might think when we first hear the term… but more an intensive treatment for your head. It seems that Indonesians really do love their pampering. For the equivalent of $1.50 Canadian you have your head, neck and shoulders massaged, rubbed and soaked in natural creams and tonics by professional hands… even if it isn’t a complete re-alignment of chakkaras, it certainly does refresh the mind, body and soul. My first cream bath was actually at a beauty factory in Jogja with Cecilia (Martin was not open to the treatment at the time, but has since come around!)

Pisang goreng (Fried bananas)

Yu-u-uuuummy! This delectable little treat can be found at “kaki-limas” (street vendors, literally “5 feet”) from afternoon to evening. A special type of banana (locally called pisang cepatu, or shoe banana) is sliced into about 5 segments lengthwise, battered, and deep-fried. Locals eat it dripping with hot sauce, but I prefer it unadulterated. Probably not what the doctor ordered for keeping the cholesterol down, but a sweet treat none-the-less.

House hunting horrors!

Oh dear, where to begin... well, we have yet to find a house. House hunting has been the focus of our last 2 weeks here, and we're coming up short. There are plenty of great houses... unfortunately none of them are either near the Bintang Laut office on the coast (maybe a good thing with the impending threat of tsunamis!?) neither are they within the CUSO budget. Manado is a city with $$$... It is said that Jakarta is the most expensive city in Indonesia... but I bet Manado is right up there!

So we've seen everything from holes-in-the-wall to mansions. Because Bintang Laut is strongly suggesting we live in the city (uck), our standards are probably slightly higher than they would be if we were on a beach somewhere. Unfortunately we've yet to see anything on the islands, and are told that the liklihood of finding something there is slim-to-none.

So, our time is running out at our homestay (about 12 days left), but we're still holding out for something more natural... It's hard to wrap your head around living in a city when, in applying for this position, it was assumed we would be living in a quiet, natural space.

More once I get my voice back (!?!) and am feeling up to it! I think all this going from air conditioned spaces to the heat of this place is doing a number on me! Awww... and I was just beginning to see 'malls' in a new light - in appreciation of them as a haven of coolness in this stinkin' hot city!

Greetings from Manado… our new home away from home.

Although hard to believe, we arrived in Manado, North Sulawesi a week ago already. We were escorted here by KoemKoem from the CUSO Indonesia Office, and met at the airport by 3 folks from Yayasan Bintang Laut (our partner organization).

Bintang Laut is a baby, but seems to have grand potential. As a group of committed, concerned professionals, they have existed for a year… on paper, as an official organization, we arrived just months after it’s inception. Some of you will remember that when I signed on with this CUSO position (a year ago already!), my placement was to be with the Bunaken National Park Board. Well, that partnership dissolved, as things tend to do in the heat of tropical countries (it seems perhaps due to some politics that I couldn’t hope to understand at this point), and this new affiliation formed. The Bintang Laut staff are friendly and fabulous, and have been very welcoming… between them, they have a great deal of experience and expertise, and it seems that with the well-intentioned dreams that they have, and these good people at the helm, they should go far. I say all this based on what I’ve understood thus far, which, may or may not be entirely accurate.

On that note, I should mention… those 6 weeks that we spent, studiously learning bahasa Indonesia during language training… although helpful to make ourselves understood, do nothing to help us understand the Manadonese in informal settings! In the first place, they speak bahasa Manado, a dialect of bahasa Indonesia (although I’m not sure I see any similarity beyond a few words)… and to complicate matters, they speak it SOOOO quickly, there’s no hope of understanding! I try to keep reminding myself that in two years, we should have some idea of what they’re saying – of course, by then it’ll be time to go home! I do keep getting compliments on my bahasa Indonesia, which does little to comfort me.

So, we have found a homestay in the hills of Manado (AWESOME view) that we will use as a base for our house hunt – which is probably a more daunting task than facing learning another entirely new language! We haven’t decided whether we will live in the city of Manado, or on one of the islands within the park (most likely Bunaken itself). It’s the same old struggle of course, the conveniences of the city vs. the tranquility of the isle. Manado is a city, and given that I’ve never been partial to cities (especially hot, dirty, tropical ones), and irrespective of the fact that the islands have fresh water issues, I think we’re leaning toward a place on the isle… but I see my dreams of a bamboo bungalow on a palm-lined beach slowly slipping away! As far as work is concerned, either option is valid… the Bintang Laut office is in Manado, but all of the schools and the Environmental Education Centers are on the islands. We had a brief tour of part of Bunaken Island with Ibu Meity (director of Bintang Laut) on our first day here, during which we got our first glimpse of the incredible coral reef just off the island! The boats are equipped with a rudimentary ‘viewing portal’ which is lowered as they near the reef… then all of a sudden you are looking down into another world: a myriad of colour, shapes and sizes, countless species of coral and sea sponges, not to mention FISH! It’s a fairly unique wall formation which drops off suddenly from 2 meters to a deep dark abyss. Can’t wait to go DIVING!

So we will let you know more as we sink into our new life here… we are anxious to find a home, and truly settle in, so that will be our focus until we find something suitable. Keep sending updates – it’s great to hear news from home!

The fever extends past just WATCHING football, too... everyone has pumped up their soccer balls and are playing everywhere (in the daytime here, when there are no games being broadcast): kids play barefoot in the sand, teens on the street, and adults in the fields... (just men, though... i got a funny look when i asked to get in on a game... ) There's some real talent out there, too... it surprises me that Indonesia doesn't have a team that qualified for the World Cup.

I read that the Indonesian government has issued a stern warning something to the effect that just because the World Cup is on, that's no excuse for people to miss work (because they're tired, since they stayed up all night watching the games, live). But it seems maybe people were too tired to heed their warning.

WorldCup Fever has struck!

Funny thing, though, in Indonesia... a country which, like my own, doesn't even have a team competing in the tourney!!!

Nonetheless, it has become something of a phenomenon... Maybe in part it is a welcome distraction for many people from their recent misfortune... because when I say it's a fever... it's EVERYWHERE. Even communities that are still seeking shelter under communal tarps have a tv of some description which they're powering by very sketchy-looking patch wiring jobs from the closest pole with electricity.

We have taken to watching the Ecuador games (hey, at least SOMEONE here has a team in the running! A fact Martin is VERY proud of...). There is a Nonton Berang ("Watching Together") spot next door to our homestay, and the neighbours get a real kick out of it when we come and watch the games with them. I'm not sure if they are amused merely by our presence, or more-so because of Martin's rather involved style of ACTIVELY watching HIS team play (or, as was the case with Germany, get pummelled!)... I have observed on occasion that they are not in fact watching the game, but are watching us (read, Martin)! HAHA! It's a lot of fun, that's for sure! The ambiance is really what attracted us in the first place... (aside from the fact that we can't actually SLEEP anyway, since the live games here happen from 8pm until about 4am, and they happen to be RIGHT next door!) The community has put up a 'projection tv' in the churchyard(ie a white sheet stretched between the columns of the church entrance)... and everyone who's anyone in the community, from young to old, are there watching!

Speaking of which... I'm off... the match against England is about to begin, and believe it or not, Ecuador has a pretty great-looking team this year! (I do have another post that's in the works... there'll be more soon)...

back to class... not necessarily back to normal.

Well, after all that was afoot, Martin and I decided that we needed a break from the stress of Jogja. Well... going to Bali wasn't exactly the best solution. Who wants to be sick in Bali!? Anyway, that's the way it was... oh, and our new cellphone was stolen there also (we had it under a week). But Bali wasn't all bad... Despite the overwhelming number of tourists (even in the off-season with most countries having placed travel bans on Indonesia!), there is still something magical about the place. Whether it be the Hindu influence, or the stunning scenery, I can't say.

In any event, we are glad to be back to class, and back to a more stable existence (physically and almost, mentally).

Cecilia Fernandez (another CUSO cooperant going to Sulawesi) has arrived, and we're happy to have her smiling company here as well.

We hosted a party here at the language school last weekend... We got fed up with Indonesian food and it's lack of variety, so we made an Ecuadorian specialty (Ceviche and patacones) for 40!!! Mostly teachers and their families... they LOVED it... Good food, good music, good friends... it was a great time... and it is happened in the wake of an Ecuadorian football victory the evening before.

We are happy to be going to Manado to start that segment there... not only to have our own kitchen (and hence more control over what we're eating), but also just to see where it is we will be calling home for the next while! We will be leaving Jogja on Friday, and fly to Manado on Saturday!... although there was an earthquake there on sunday (sounds like it was far from Manado and there was no damage, but STILL!) -- Darn 'ring of fire'... it seems that there's an earthquake somewhere in Indonesia weekly!?

My dad wrote me to say that Merapi has grown by 1000'... I think it's possible that the volcano may have grown that much... the type it is, the lava just sort of boils up to the top and oozes over, so it doesn't really travel very far. We had a really cool view of it from the plane on our return to jogja... and we returned to Borobodur last week for our school field trip, and all of the forests around that area, and the temple itself, are white from the ashfall! But that's far from here, and there hasn't been any ash for a while...

As for the earthquake relief, we've just been concentrating on the language training since returning from Bali... there are sooo many foreigners in the disaster zone now that the Indo govt has requested them all to leave! So we're just butting out. We did visit the beach with some people from Realia this weekend, so we passed through the area we were working in, and we could see that people had cleaned up a lot of the rubble, and had begun the reconstruction phase... It's still a sad sight. The beach was deserted, black sand, a km of dunes before you reach the surf (which is wickedly mean, and we weren't allowed to swim... in case the queen of the south seas (the one who they're blaming hte earthquake on) was in a mood and decided to take us with her!?). It was fun to hang out with a couple of the teachers outside of class though... We also made a pancake breakfast this morning for a few of them (with the maple syrup I brought from home, which I must say has been a huge hit!)

I guess I've adjusted to the heat... The rain has stopped, so now I think we can safely say we have entered the 'dry season', which means temperatures seem more moderate also (less humidity). But in Manado it will be very hot... another few degrees hotter on average than here. I think I'll be longing for the cool summer evenings in Madoc before long, there! Well, maybe the fact that it's going to be MANGO season not long after we arrive will keep me going!?

Hellos... We're still alive, and ok... although we have been seeing some very heart-wrenching scenes.

We are just back to Jogja at 1am this morn... dirty and exhausted. Martin and I have spent the last week very active in lending our healing hands (and voices) to the relief effort to the south of here. We have been between Jogja and a posko (base camp) near Bantul and Parangtritis. The camp is run by a local NGO called Yayasan Gaia (Foundation Mother Earth) -- a very well organized partner supported by CUSO -- and has become the temporary home to many displaced, homeless families, as well as the logistical coordination centre for that entire area.

The destruction in that area is absolutely unfathomable... the damage in the city is nothing compared to some of the areas we have been working in -- whole communities reduced to rubble, where the only thing left standing might be the cow's shelter (because it was made from bamboo). I am not posting pictures, as I'm told the coverage in the Canadian media has been quite extensive, and it takes WAY too long!

Our contribution to the relief effort has been varied. I have been doing everything from visiting families and just listening to their stories, to dispensing pharmaceuticals, to building temporary shelters... but mostly I have been part of a mobile medical unit, providing medical attention to people in villages in the most harshly affected areas which are highly inaccessible, and have yet to receive much in the way of aid. The majority of the most serious medical cases had been taken care of, but the major problem at this point is that some major infection is starting to set in... people are wearing their bandages like clothes, not cleaning or changing their dressings, and with very sketchy sanitary conditions and precious little clean water, they literally can't take care of their wounds. The conditions in many of the temporary shelters are rudimentary at best, with little clean water and no 'systems' in place for disposal of waste... it seems to me they are a breeding ground for an epidemic, or outbreak of some kind.

On a more positive note, one of the most inspiring things I have seen as a result of this disaster has been the incredible sense of community that the Indonesian people share, especially in the smaller, more remote villages. During one of the medical visit that we made to a village in the hills, it was evident that the people had very little, and their supplies of food were running low, yet they work together, and take care of eachother. They have gathered into communal areas to ensure that everyone has shelter, and they cook whatever food they have and share it between them. The communities are rallying to rebuilt and provide support from within and not just relying on external aid.

I think one of the most frustrating things about the relief effort is that a disaster of this magnitude is a logistical nightmare... there are local NGOs, International NGOs and Foundations, and government and military from many countries, and then there are countless families and local organization that normally do not work in the sector that are taking donations... and everyone is trying to get aid out... but no one is able to coordinate an effort of this size! Many areas are seeing a great deal of cross-over, while there are STILL areas which have received little or no help.

Another frustration are the 'disaster tourists'... the people who come to gawk and take pictures, but not act. It is to the point that the local people have signs out saying (roughly translated) "please help us, don't just look at us".

As many of you know, we have only had about 3 weeks of language training, and our bahasa Indonesia is basic at best. We thought that this, compounded by the fact that, in the remote villages in which we work the people speak different dialects than we are learning, would mean that our inability to communicate would be a hindrance to our effectiveness in the field. It's not... people are patient, and we get by communicating in the international language of smiles and charades.

Martin and I have both come down with colds... no doubt from the combination of 'sleeping' out at the camp and not really being able to sleep for a week (I'm still waking up at the sounds of any slight rumble, or feeling any minor wobble). And it's not just my imagination... we're still feeling aftershocks from the earthquake a week later! It's hard not being with family right now, after such a scary event, and seeing so many people who have lost parts of their families. I am very thankful that Martin and I are here together. Anyway, we will not be spending anymore nights in the camp (even though that generally means we don't get back until 1 am still)... and today may be our last day anyway. we are thinking of going to bali for a little under a week to get away from this disaster zone for a space... we'll let you know! When I think of this possibility I struggle between feeling guilty thinking of many of the families we've met (they can't escape to Bali, let alone to Jogja for a shower... this is their reality) and the need to take care of our personal health and sanity.

Thanks for everyone's concern -- we feel very lucky for ourselves, yet are saddened by the amount of destruction that the Indonesian people have had to endure.

There have been over 540 aftershocks reported ... but we have only felt about 7... one was apparently 5.4 on the Rikter scale! Things have slowed down though, and we haven't felt anything since yesterday at noonish.

When we tried to go to some of the more affected areas yesterday to lend what assistance we could, the military stopped us (probably because we are not affiliated with any of the official aid organizations). They are not allowing any non-essential travel into the area... probably because they don't want roads jammed and blocking the flow of aide/supplies. There are many people who live in Jogja who have not yet been able to contact their families that live to the south of the city to find out if they are ok... and many others who have been in contact, and are trying to take supplies directly to their families. Since the airport has re-opened we have seen a flood of supplies come into Jogja... my fear is that it is all being stockpiled in warehouses, and the distribution to those in the greatest need has been sparse. This is why we would like to give aid directly to the people in the disaster areas. It doesn't feel right that we are continuing on with our language training when people so near by are in a state of emergency... we have many willing and able hands here... I am trying to get in touch with the local Red Cross or other organization to DO something. It seems there's enough supplies and money coming in... what they need is manpower. There are people lined up like crazy waiting for medical attention, and they are turning away people with minor injuries... Maybe my first-aid skills would come in handy!?

today we have decided to venture further afield... we feel that we're in a safe little bubble and from what we're seeing and hearing, the devastation less than two kilometers away is unimaginable...

last night we didn't sleep very soundly... with every little sound or movement we woke with a start to stare at eachother (not needing to say it, but wondering... uh oh... is this another??? do we need to make the move, grab our pre-packed emergency bag and head for what we've decided to be our safe haven (a small field/soccer park across the street devoid of any overhanging threats that could fall)? and there were tremors... but nothing too substantial. the most haunting thing was the intense electrical storm that was going on overhead... lightening, which at first wasn't accompanied by thunder or rain... when the thundering began it's growl was too similar to the sound of the earthquake to allow us very much calm. i wondered if such heightened activity might be a sign that an erruption was pending...? anyway, at our homestay, we decided that a better indicator might be the behaviour of the cats... they seem to have some ultra-sensitivity to coming phenomena, no? haha.

we hope to find some organized relief efforts underway on our sojourn into the disaster zone... and will try to lend a hand where possible. will let you know more upon our return.

We're safe... Unfortunately the same cannot be said for everyone in this area of Indonesia... The latest reports are that the death toll has passed 3000, and the number of people injured is far more.

We were awoken with quite a start at 5:54 this morning by an earthquake that is said to have measured 6.2 on the Rikter scale! The quake lasted at least a minute (some reports are saying up to a minute and a half), but felt like forever...

Martin and I had been considering going to the beach this weekend, but are feeling very lucky to have stayed in town... although there is damage in town, it's mostly in the south, and the area we're staying in (north) is very well constructed and there was little damage, or I should say no MAJOR damage. The epicenter was about 26 kms from here, and the province to the south of us was hard-hit and is where the most damage (and deaths) have occurred... in a town called Bantul.

The actual experience was pretty insane... scary! Imagine being woken from a dead sleep to the house moving all around you, a horrific, unidentifiable sound, and the bed shaking like crazy (even though you didn't put in a quarter!). With all the talk, and focus on the volcano for the last while, we thought perhaps there had been an erruption, or that it was something to do with the volcano. Although neither Martin nor I have been that close to a volcanic erruption, it just didn't seem like it could be that... we felt it for a whole minute... and was a LOT of motion... we quickly got dressed and got out of the house... people were chatting in the streets, but our "IBU" ('house mother') told us earthquakes happen, it's just that they're not usually so strong and long... so we went back to bed. At about 8 the "Ibu" came running in the house, yelling that we were all going north... the streets were JAM-packed (even our 'quiet' little street) with people heading north (coincidentally TOWARD the volcano!?) to borobodur, and higher ground... there was a rumour spreading that a tsunami had hit and that the water had already arrived in jogja!? I told the ibu that we were not going, that it didn't seem like the best course of action to me, and that even if there were a tsunami the water would not be here (at least not by then)... but i think with the tsunami so fresh in everyone's minds, they were very reactionary... we came to Realia to find out it they had some more sensical information, and then just hung out... there have been 5 aftershocks that we have felt, but nothing so substantial as the 1st!

We have decided to stay close to home, and so have not seen any of the devastation that we are hearing about... there are houses with rooves caved in completely, and a hospital where the same happened... the glass is blown out of many buildings, and there are crevasses in the streets, heaving of pavement, and, of course, many injuries as a result of it all.

Tonight, there are people in the streets, sleeping in church/mosque-yards, and in FRONT of their houses...

Sorry for not getting word out sooner, but there was no power/internet/phone in most parts of the city until recently... or if there was, the lines were jammed! Although, you probably can get more up-to-date information there (!!!)... that's the most dis-quieting thing from our end!

May 18, 2006

I mentioned on my website that this blog would contain some of the sights, sounds and smells of our experiences in Indonesia… so I thought I should attempt to bring you all into the experience….

One word that can describe what INDONESIA does to the senses is OVERLOAD!

Living life in Indonesia is a daily sensory overload… note, I did not say “assault” on the senses – I don’t want to create a negative connotation.

But, WOW… It seems to me that everything in the city is in constant motion. What can you expect, with 60% of the world’s 4^th most populous country living on this Island (Java)? There are people (mostly on motorcycle, or moped) going this way and that… and, watch out!, pedestrians to NOT have the right-of-way, as in courteous Canada! The trick is not to have a momentary brain lapse (easy in this heat and humidity!), and forget that the traffic here is on the opposite side of the street to what we’re used to!!! Yes, Indonesia falls into that half the world that drives from the right-hand side of the car on the left-hand side of the road. This, being an entirely novel concept for Martin, has almost left me in Indonesia alone, on more than one occasion!

As for smells, especially in the evening, the city is full of the mingling scents of sate (yummy marinated street meat (meat-on-a-stick) – usually beef or chicken, not dog as in Maluku), nasi goreng (chicken/veggie fried rice), sembal (INSANELY spicy food, even for Martin!), or any number of exotic dishes from the more remote islands. The street sides are packed with small warung and food stalls… even in the more remote suburbs, like where we live…you can’t walk 10 feet without having to walk into the traffic to accommodate someone’s temporary restaurant. My favourite food so far would have to be mie rebus (a veggie noodle soup)… but I must say, I’m REALLY missing fresh vegetable salads (... don't cha just LOVE salad?). It always surprises me that in tropical countries, where they have the facility to grow veggies year round, a nice fresh green garden salad is a rarity!

Of course, another smell that is unique to Jogja right now is a slightly sooty, campfire-esque scent thanks to Merapi (the volcano).

Sounds: motors, car horns, fans, and call to prayer at the mosque (five times daily)… certain to be a consideration when we select a home!

May 15

This afternoon Martin and I walked to a bridge from which the view of Merapi is supposed to be spectacular… First off, we were told that it was about a twenty minute walk…. 1.5 hours later we arrived at the bridge… and let me tell you, we weren’t going at any snail’s pace! Anyway, we have learned quickly not to necessarily believe the entirety of what Indonesians tell you… not that they misguide you intentionally… but in their culture, if you ask them a question, they feel compelled to give you SOME answer… and so they tell you SOMETHING, even if they don’t necessarily know… they are very helpful…

Anyway, when we arrived, the entire horizon was full of smoke… Today, Merapi has had two eruptions, and even though last night molten lava could be seen spewing from the volcano, we can't really see the volcano at all anymore. Apparently the Australian embassy has evacuated some people from Jogja, but that is because they are overly paranoid of having more Aussies die in indo (after 200 died in bali bombings)... we will be fine. I think, Bro, that lava may travel at 100km/h, but only in a huge eruption, and maybe only for a shot time... regardless, the current scientific report is that the main flow will go to the opposite side of the mountain than we are on... because of the lay of the land. Also, a journalist I spoke to this afternoon told me that he was within four kilometres of the volcano a few hours before, and apparently the lava had travelled almost two kilometres from the vent, but not via eruption, but more just overflowing the edge of the crater. For more Merapi information, you can visit my friend Chad's (another student at Realia) blog at: http://www.mountmerapi.blogspot.com/

Another interesting tidbit of Indonesian culture is that when someone asks you if you have done something/ been somewhere/ met someone, etc, etc… the answer is always, not yet, or gives the impression that it is a possibility, or something that will happen sometime in the indefinite future… They never just say no. For example, when Martin asked someone if they had ever been to Bali, his response was “No, I haven’t been to Bali YET”… or, in the more unlikely, but funny example… today someone asked me if I had ever been to the moon… in Indonesian, the invariable answer is, “No, I have not yet landed on the moon!”

So, I have not yet met the president, been to every corner of our planet Earth, nor grown my own garden…. but the Indonesians give me hope that this may someday come to pass!

Our homestay is a room in a house... Ibu Dihar is the ‘Mother’ (Ibu) of the house. We eat brekkie there, lunch is provided at Realia, and dinner we find on our own (usually in a street stall or “Warung”. We don't sleep with a mosquito net, and haven't see too many mosquitos. We did see a rat, though… much to my chagrin… It entered the room of the other (Australian) couple living at Ibu Dihar’s… it entered via the window, and so we have not once left our window open (and we keep the door closed always)! There are also many harmless salamanders and geckos living in the cooler cement corners of the house. Our ‘home’, as with most mid-to-upper-class Indonesian homes we have seen, has a central courtyard with a few plants and a small pond which is home to many goldfish.

Bule…

I forgot to add in my last post one of the funniest things that I have encountered everywhere in indo thus far – the people’s fascination with foreigners… as I’m no stranger to the stares, and second-glances… having been a “shiny spot” in Ecuador as well (or mancha blanca que brille mucho, as Martin says), it doesn’t bother me at all… I just find it amusing, and try to enjoy the amusement I bring to them! Their special word for ‘whitey’ is “ bulé ” (the equivalent of “gringo” in Spanish)… although I don’t think it carries negative connotations. And as for Martin… well, Indonesians just don’t know WHAT to think! He doesn’t quite look Indonesian, but he isn’t white, so people tend to assume that he is from a remote part of Indonesia (especially in Jakarta, since there is lots of immigration to the city from the outer islands, and thus a very diverse look to the people)…. They are often surprised to learn that he doesn’t speak bahasa Indonesian!

I am amazed by the amount of English as well… in signs and product names… and everyone seems to have a basic vocabulary (numbers, and basic words). Anyway, we hope to be fluently conversing within weeks, and will no longer need to rely on our fingers to ask how much something costs!

We have now been in Indonesia for almost two weeks, but are just getting 'settled' into the first phase of our stay here... Until now we have been in constant motion/turmoil/upheaval! -- Dealing with Martin's last-minute travel issues (apparently if a S.American transits more than once in Europe, they need a visa... even if they're not getting off the plane, or staying for more than 2 hours! -- but he's here safe and sound at long last -- what a joyful reunion!) We've been: -- Getting over some serious jet lag (we're on the other side of the world, with an 13 hour time difference to Madoc, Ontario and 11 to the Galapagos!) -- Acclimatizing to the intense heat and humidity (it is upward of 30 C daily, and VERY humid) -- getting paperwork in place, moving from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, doing our "in-country" training and cultural training.... and of course, trying to see as much of every place we find ourselves!

Once we arrived in Jogja (the way the locals refer to Yogyakarta), we stayed 4 days in Duta Guest House, a truly gorgeous hotel (NOT how we think of hotels... more like a spa resort) with traditional Javanese hospitality. The island of Java is known for it's warm and hospitable people, and we have been the appreciative recipients of lots of smiles from helpful (and patient!) Javanese! It housed lovely gardens, and a pool in a natural setting in the courtyard, to help keep us cool. While staying at Duta with KoemKoem (CUSO Indonesia's Program Assistant who was escourting us through the adaptation process), she took us to see many of Jogja's curiosities. My favorite thus far was an incredible (and CHEAP!) open-air market area than spans about 5 city blocks... it carries everthing from batik clothing, to silver jewelry, to food, to medicinal plants... she gave us a very thorough tour, explaining about everything along the way, including the natural malaria-fighting plants (mostly bitter roots to drink as tea... I guess the mosquitos don't like bitter blood!?) We have also visited the Sultan's palace (yes, the city still maintains it's own king!), Teman Sari (Purawisata - The Water Palace), and eaten at every variety of restaurant and street vendor in town!

On Thursday we started language training at “Realia” in Yogyakarta. It’s going to be very intensive… and more so, because usually the “fall-back” language is English… but with Martin not speaking much English, we are using a mix/I’m translating… so I have many languages swimming around in my head. It's really nice here though, and we get free internet access any time there's electricity (!). We have classes Monday to Friday, 3 sessions of 2 hours each, with rotating teachers. And at least once a week, we go on a 'field trip' to a local attraction, to test ourselves in situ. We can also use the buildings and garden on weekends to study or hang out.

Our move into a homestay situation coincided with the start of our language course. We are living only 2 blocks from the language school in a neighbourhood called Pandega Sari that is a dutch-colonial left-over… apparently this is one of the coolest areas in the city, but I still find it stinkin’ hot! We are on the northern outskirts of the city, and can see Mount Merapi from here (the volcano set to erupt any day now)… there have been warnings out for months, and until yesterday it seemed to be ok… only the odd puff of smoke could be seen escaping from the conical giant. Apparently the local people living on the slopes of the volcano are doing all they can to appease the god of the volcano… they feel that the eruptions of the volcano and the subsequent devastation are a result of something they have done to displease the god, and cause them to fall out-of-favour with him. They are offering daily sacrifices of animals and harvest foods (but no humans, as used to be practiced) to appease him. The 'warden' of Merapi (an elder from one of the communities on the slope of the volcano) is the one who makes the call to evacuate or not... even though there are many vulcanologists studying the volcano, the locals believe that the spirits speak to this man, and look to him, not science, for guidance in matters of the volcano.

It seems that Merapi is still not appeased with all the offerings of the locals... it's on the move: yesterday we saw a great deal more smoke coming from the central vent, and there have been tremors, and apparently even lava flow. Today, the Australian couple who is staying at our homestay came back for their binoculars saying that there was major action up above. Jogja is over 30 kms from the volcano, so we should be safe... but don't worry... we'll keep our eyes and ears open!

Ok, the food... man is the food cheap!!! ... we ate a lavish dinner last night with many courses, etc, although not in an upscale restaurant... it only cost us the equivalent of 2 dollars! The night before we ate a simple meal at a "sit-on-the-floor" street stall for fifty cents each. And because everything is cooked out in the open, in front of you, it seems fairly safe as well. There is plenty of spicy food, which suits me just fine, but Martin is getting a bit sick of it. We have tried almost all the different kinds of juices and fruits that we can get our hands on... so far my favorite is 'snake fruit', called salak in indonesian. Our favorite fruit shake (avocado) even exits here... but with a chocolatey twist! And Mom, there are LOTS of mangos!

The Indonesian government recognizes 5 religions officially, with 90% of the population being practicing Muslims. Yesterday, we had our first encounter with Buddhism here... and talk about the perfect day to do it!!! We went to the Temple of Borobudur, a UNESCO world heritage site, and one of the most renoun Buddhist sanctuaries in South-East Asia... and it just happened to be Waisak -- the celebration of the Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death.... the biggest Buddhist holiday of the year! The site itself was incredible, and the fact that hundreds of thousands of people from all over were completing their pilgrimage that day made that much more special... We were 'special guests' (although we have no idea how we obtained that special status...), so had free passes to entrances to all the temples, guided tours, and access to all the VIP areas, and food, etc! We followed the path of Buddha's life, and climbed to the top of the temple (which was actually built wrapped around a hill) to touch the feet of the Buddha for good luck in life. I came home with a bit of a sunburn, but feeling pretty good about the world.

Ok, we're off to the apotek (drug store) to get some cream for what looks like a heat rash that's developing on my wrist... uugh.

Hope all's well in Canada... keep me updated!

and we're OFF!

in twelve hours i will be boarding a plane (Martin will be doing the same in Ecuador), and on Tuesday afternoon (local time in Jakarta), we will meet up!

the trials that we have experienced to get to this point have been unimaginable... it seems like there was a lot of cosmic opposition to this venture... but the pre-departure logistics are all complete, and i have faith that the outcome of it all will be that much sweeter for the difficulties along the way!

nothing worth doing is ever easy, right!?

wish us luck!

hmmm... seems too easy... what's the catch?

If all goes well, and assuming I'll have access to internet over the next two years, then y'all can access my inner-most thoughts, hopes and dreams, and fears via this handy-dandy little entity - my 'blog'!

So... If we have any interesting tales to tell about our experiences in Indonesia (and find the motivation to write about them), then they'll be posted here, so you, our friends and family, can stay caught up with what we're up to...