Candy Change

A phenomenon I keep forgetting to write into my blog, Candy Change, has become so common-place to me now that I sometimes don't think anything of it when a cashier hands me my receipt and a few bills with a couple candies on top!



The first time it happened to me, I actually thought the supermarket had just decided to provide complimentary mints to their customers... then I realized that my change was incomplete. Instead of providing your change in coins (anything under 1000 rupiah), candies are substituted!

At the heart of it, this just goes to show you the diminished value of the Indonesian Rupiah... The smallest denomination bill is the 1000-Rupiah note; 50-, 100- and 500-rupiah coins still exist... they just don't have any practical value. This is even more pronounced in Papua, where market-basket surveys show costs to be an average of 45% higher than other regions within Indonesia! 1000 Rupiah is the equivalent of approximately 10 cents; even that doesn't go far... it can buy a small, non-branded bar of soap, but not much else. The only thing I can think of, other than single candies, that costs less than 1000 Rupiah would be an egg (500 Rupiah). So coins are going by the wayside... stores just don't have adequate supply of small change.

So much for not taking candy from strangers!

The 'Candy Change' actually doesn't really bother me so much, although I find it annoying that when you try to pay with candies, they look at you like you're mad and outright deny you the option!

Others are not so tolerant of this phenomenon: I just read recently that there is a push to actually outlaw the use of candy as change in Bali. The outcome remains to be seen, but it seems to me a more appropriate solution is required on a national level, which addresses to root of the problem... reevaluation of the rupiah. I know it's not so simple, but what about just cutting out the zeros!?!

Hmmm... I have mixed emotions about this... it means I wouldn't be able to think of myself as a millionaire anymore! At least I can say I have been... (no need to mention that it was in a place where 100 dollars puts into the millions (of rupiah))!

Beauty Factory

Continuing on the spa theme... I have a story I wanted to share from the days BEFORE I discovered my favourite treatments. It was during the time when our language teachers were telling us all about spas and their virtues, and I was trying any treatment offered to me...

This was probably only the second time I had been to a spa in Indonesia... this popular one, also in Jogjakarta, had a very inviting lobby that was soothing and comfortable, and served tea as you waited your appointment. The price was right (as prices always are in Jogja), so I signed up...

Once led into the back room, however, I was surprised at the sight: row upon row of treatment beds lined a big open room, and were filled with women in different stages of therapy... I couldn't get the image out of my head that this was a beauty factory!

It was too late now, however, because once I had pulled the blue spa smock over my head in the dressing room, I had committed.

So I got lined up amongst the rest, and started my first (and last) 'facial'. I think the treatment consisted of about 11 different steps, although I did get so relaxed at one point that I lost count... there were various creams and scrubs and exfoliators all lovingly massaged into my skin, cool cucumbers placed over the eyes, masks and gels that felt splendid...

... then the therapist applied another gel... which was followed closely by electrocution! I'm not kidding... they took some tool out which was throwing electric shocks through my skin... hence the fun and lovingness ended. I was so stunned, and had such low language ability at the time, that I didn't know what to say... so I just sat there and let them shock me! I realize now this was probably part of their standard 'whitening' treatment, which, with my nods and smiles of non-comprehension, I probably signed up for!?

Luckily that phase, although seriously disturbing, didn't last that long... then we were onto the creambath phase... and I felt cared for again... natural fruit creams being massaged into my scalp, strong steady massage strokes intermixed with light flicks, and smooth sweeps... aaaahhh... then the masseuse started pounding me on the head... OUCH! It felt like she was cracking eggs on my crown... only this hurt more than I imagine the eggs would. Again, lack of language to blame, I didn't know how to say 'softer' or 'that hurts', so I suffered through it!

Needless to say, I went home and immediately learned those words, and have never since had electro-shock therapy!

Secret Spa Addict

Not much of a well-kept secret if I'm blogging about it, I suppose! And I know, many of my friends from my pre-Indonesia time will be hard-pressed to believe that this is actually me writing this... but it is... just hear me out.

Living in Indonesia has exposed me to the spa, or salon, experience. Before coming to Indonesia the only reason I went to a 'salon' was to get my hair trimmed... and in fact, my whole life, we called this place 'the hairdresser's'.

I still remember my first 'cream bath', on the recommendation of one of our teachers at language school in Jogjakarta. I subsequently, timidly at first, and then in what became a borderline addiction, embraced, the spa experience. What made me decide to share with you all the pleasure of 'the spa'??? Well, I just got home from one today after not having been for months... which made me remember just how luxurious it is! So you see, I'm not an addict... but it certainly is something I enjoy... However, I do know some people that, if they don't get their weekly creambath and foot reflexology, they're 'slightly off' (like, compared to this, PMS is nothing!).

Even though I decided I should try all the available spa treatments in order to make a complete and thorough assessment of the choices (ha - great excuse!), after finding heaven, I rarely bother with anything else now, so I can't tell you about a lot of the fancy stuff... but a few of my favourite treatments and locales, I am dying to share with you:

The Creambath -- I've blogged about it before, here, so I won't go into more detail here except to say I believe it to be an experience akin to heaven... aaahhh....



I even convinced Martin to try a creambath, and although wary at first, he's never looked back!



Reflexology -- A natural healing therapy which constitutes the practice of massaging or applying pressure to parts of the feet (and sometimes the hands and ears) with the goal of encouraging a beneficial effect on other parts of the body, and to improve general health. Whether or not the 'maps' of the feet that they give you which show the part of the foot and the corresponding part of the body are accurate or not, it certainly does feel good.



My two absolute favourite places:

Bale-Bale Spa in Jakarta
I have to thank my friend for introducing me to this place... I've only been there twice, since I am so rarely in Jakarta (thankfully, for other reasons!), but I was really impressed with the ambiance, the therapists, and the prices!!! Bale-bale is not your typical sleek spa setting... it's a traditional javanese house with a cozy, homey feeling.



I had a full body scrub, milk bath, and then massage... and it was amazing. They use mostly natural products as well. Their website. The other thing I love about this joint is the cheap waxing (3 dollars for the legs), which is followed up by threading (another first for me).


COZY Renon



At Cozy, you are welcomed into the tranquil environment, asked which blend of natural essential oils you would like for your aromatherapy, as well as those which you'd like for your hair treatment, then given a choice of music to listen to (with some very soothing tunes on their 'relaxin' track)... then you're lead into your semi-private treatment space with a soothing fish tank to lull you to sleep (if the combination of the music and massage don't!?)... I can't imagine a more conducive setting... My favourite treatment is the 'cozy cozy', which combines the two above treatments (cream bath and foot reflexology), and leaves you feeling vibrant and refreshed. And if you feel like you still need another boost of healthfulness, you can order a yummy fruit or veg drink from their juice bar, before, during, or after your treatment.



** I can't believe it but Cozy Renon has closed!?!? Cozy Kuta is still open (with another 'Super Cozy' going up on 'the other side' as well... but Sunset Road is far from the path that I frequent!)

Driving is a Dance

This is a comment Uncle Bruce made when they were visiting Indonesia and I took them around for a day last year... and it has stuck with me since, because that's exactly the perfect way to put it!



It's again part of the organized chaos... superficially, it seems totally out-of-control and chaotic, with motorcycles darting in and out amongst cars spaced very closely, paying no attention to lines, and treating traffic signals as mere suggestions... but once you get into the rhythm of it, in fact, it all flows perfectly because everyone is following the same unwritten rules: it's all about give and take.

Until you actually drive here, you don't really get a good understanding of it, but it doesn't take long to pick up on the subtle rules and nuances to make you a successful Bali driver!



I have never been able to successfully capture what is 'Indonesian traffic', so these two photos are Indonesian traffic jams in Jakarta (called macet (ma-chet) here) from dreamindonesia.wordpress.com and kaskus.us.



Oh yes, I forgot to mention the wild-card aspect of driving here... the animal-factor. Dogs, chickens, cats... mostly they are left to roam free, which also means they often roam (or dart, in many cases) into traffic... they don't follow any rules (written or not), and you really DON'T want to hit one of them, since if you do you have to pay the owner for the (inflated) value of its life, PLUS the five generations of offspring that it didn't get to contribute since you cut its life short!

Organized Chaos

That's the answer to life, the universe and everything in Indonesia.

What amazes me is my acceptance of it! I mean, I think I'm a pretty easy-going person in general... but the level of disorder here is seriously over-the-top! But in no time, I seemed to accept and even embrace many aspects of this society which thrives on its organized chaos - it's not logical, but there is some sense to it...

escalators

i remember when we were living in Manado and used to go to the mall for its safe haven of coolness....

i used to always smile inwardly as i watched the people who had obviously never been on an escalator before...

it actually was most hazardous around christmas time when hoards of 'country folk' would flock to the city for their once-a-year shopping trip... these folks, timid to get onto the escalators, and not very efficient at getting off, used to literally cause pile-ups!



there are still no escalators in sorong...

BAKAR BATU

Roasted rocks... sounds delicious, no!?!

Luckily, the name of this traditional Papuan food actually refers to the cooking-method... not the food itself!

In the mountainous areas of Papua, a meal of Bakar Batu is usually prepared for monumental meetings or ceremonies, or, more specifically, as a way to 'bury the hatchet' between two parties (or even warring factions/tribes)!

The stones are heated in fires, while a hole is dug in the ground (usually, although at the one we were invited to last week, they did it without a hole). Banana leaves are laid down, and a layer of sago flour is added, on top of which a layer of bamboo strips are arranged. Red-hot stones are then placed on top. The stones are then covered with meat (often freshly-slain wild boar), more stones and banana leaves are added, on top of which are placed the vegetables; all of this in alternating layers (leaves, rocks, meat, rocks, leaves, veggies). Usually, sweet potatoes, cassava, various leaves (such as from sweet-potato, cassava and papaya), and apparently sometimes even cucumber and corn, are layered into this mass. Once everything is included, several layers of banana leaves are wrapped up around the entire mass, and strapped together using vines; this huge, steaming package is left to cook for at least an hour.






Concurrent to the package being compiled, we were also treated to a very special making of 'papeda batu' (rock papeda). I have written about this traditional glue-like staple of Papua previously, but this was certainly a new and interesting way to make it! This method uses those same red-hot rocks to cook the papeda from the simple ingredients of sago flour and water. The process is really fun to watch, because as the sago turns gelatinous, and then 'gooey' (the indicator of the transformation into 'papeda'), it seems to 'know' its cooked, and spit the hot rocks out itself!





After an hour of other activity - lots of song and dance - the steaming package is sliced open and spills out it's delicacies.



The whole feast is eaten communally, sitting around on grass mats, using banana leaves as plates, with no need for utensils. I must say, the meal is all the more delicious because of this 'primitive' ambiance! It was actually very enjoyable food as well - and the addition of wild boar meat achieved a lovely mingling of aroma with the veggies and the sago.

Papua.