Home-made Bakso

Ok, actually, boat-made... but since the Kalabia becomes the team's home for three weeks at a time, I guess we're safe to say homemade!

Bakso is meatball soup... or in this case, fishball soup... which I usually stay away from, since you can never really be sure where the 'meatballs' come from, or what their actual contents are... (not to mention the extremely high MSG content!) BUT... since I watched these ones being made from scratch, I knew I was safe!

Last month, we purchased a huge Tenggiri (Spanish Mackerel) from one of the Raja Ampat villages when we were there for the Kalabia program, and the girls got busy with the fish!

It was neat to see them work together in the tight kitchen, and escape its confines to cook right out on deck!





The fish balls, just off the steamer:




Proud of their delicious creation:




Some like it HOT! (yes, the red is the spice)


Enjoying the fruits of their labour!



Not only are these gals fabulous EE Facilitators... but also GREAT cooks!

My NEW Camera!!!

Well, unfortunately, my beloved Canon S1 IS bit the dust after a trusty 4 years... I took it in to the Canon Repair Centre in Singapore, hoping they would be able to revive it (it was working ok, except the focus)... Alas, they gave me the bad news that they were going to have to replace the entire lens in order to fix the problem, and that was going to cost me 300 Singapore Dollars (about 230 Canadian). That's a huge chunk of money for a camera model that is over 5 years old, and I figured I could upgrade for that same amount...

It helped that Canon was offering a 'trade-in' incentive... a little less than that same amount off any new camera I might buy! So that automatically ruled out 'switching teams' to a model that was recommended to me by Uncle Bruce.

Much deliberation ensued... I'm a terrible decision-maker for purchases like this... and I usually like to do my homework... but, since our visa trip to Singapore was a one-day affair, the decision had to be made virtually on-the-spot!

... and here's what I ended up with!

Canon Powershot g10 IS



It's not exactly the camera I wanted (my choice would've been the Canon Powershot SX1 IS, very similar to my trusty S1, but with 20x optical zoom, and still uses AA batteries!), but the SX1 doesn't have an underwater housing (I would have to get a third party underwater housing costing twice the price of the camera itself!)... so it was a toss up. The g10 has a Canon underwater housing, but only 5x optical zoom (a step back from my S1), and uses a proprietary battery pack instead of sensible AAs (something I detest on principle)...


Oh well, I just hope it serves me as well as my S1... here are a few test shots...

A Very Unique Geocache!

I don't know whether it will get many visitors, but some friends and I have set up a new geocache - It is in the remote Wayag islands of Raja Ampat... at the summit of one of the karsts!





Even if it is a super-tough climb, scaling sharp limestone cliffs, the view alone is worth it!

The BEST BIRTHDAY EVER!

Literally from the reefs to the ridges - I can’t imagine a better day, period!

I awoke to the stunning scenery of the Wayag islands, while being gently lulled from my dreams into the day.



...and on this morning, it was not just any old breakfast! But a Birthday breakfast! Complete with delicious Klappertart home (or boat)-made by Meity! Surrounded by singing and great company… what better way to start the day. Of course, I had NO idea that this was just the tip of the iceberg, and it would turn out to be even more incredible!!!



After a tour of the new MPA post and a meeting with an inspiring group of local conservationists, we set out on a tour of the Wayag islands by speedboat. It is said that you have not been to Raja Ampat until you visit this magical area. This is the image first brought to mind when one thinks of Raja Ampat: the stunning karst landscape surrounding by turquoise-blue waters, with hidden pockets of white sand beach and orchids dripping from the cliffs. Although it was raining, we braved it, and hiked/climbed to the top of the tallest karst to see if we would catch the breath-taking view… well, even though it was overcast, and the visibility wasn’t great, it was still beautiful, and felt like a grand accomplishment just to do the trip!







Oh but wait… the day isn’t over yet… we didn’t get back onboard and crawl into our bunks, oh no! Next on the agenda was a dive… but since none of us knew the area with regards to diving, we decided to just drop in and see what we could see… well! That’s what made it all that much more unbelievable… we were surrounded by amazing coral (some of which, I had certainly never seen before), sponges, and some beautiful great anenomes! We met a Wobegong shark, and several huge lobsters, a great many colourful giant clams, and much much more! This dive was topped the very next day when in a single dive we were met not only with fabulous coral and fish diversity, but also surrounded by the largest schools of big fish I've ever experienced on any dive, saw some key critters (including a pygmy seahorse), and met some megafauna (a hawksbill sea turtle, and two decent-sized black-tip reef sharks (a small inspiration, given the devastating degree of predation on sharks world-wide))!



Now, it couldn’t get better than that, right? Wrong! In the evening we went to the farthest reaches of Raja Ampat, to the islands of Sayang and Pii. Although we had to battle some pretty high seas (and thus bouts of seasickness) to get there, it was worth it to go to these special islands which are known nesting sites for green and hawksbill sea turtles. Not only were we inspired to see countless turtle tracks heading up into the nesting areas, but we met two female turtles who were actually in the process of laying their eggs! I have never seen them actually releasing eggs, and feel so lucky to have been privy to such a beautiful and sacred act.

The day was made that much better because it was infused with interesting discussions amongst fabulous company... new friends and old.

The day after wasn't such a let-down either... it comprised of, as I mentioned, a fabulous dive, and also some very special visits to some very special villages, and a traditional welcoming ceremony and dance by the children of Sawingrai.






Obviously the pictures are missing from this post, but we just got back from the field, and went straight into meetings... but don't worry... they're coming!... AND... thanks to Ginny, now it's complete!

Thanks to everyone for the beautiful birthday wishes... I feel so LUCKY!

Kolak



Kolak is one of those foods that looks like... well, let's just say it appears virtually inedible, but once you work up the courage to try, you find out it's quite delicious...

It's a smooth, warm, spicy desert. It contains pandan (from the Screwpine tree), kayu manis (cinnamon), along with banana, plantain and some other other starchy fruits.

Blue-water Mangroves



In general, I think it's very important that the education team, and anyone who works in conservation for that matter, has plentiful opportunities to learn and be inspired by that which they are working to conserve. There is a very special ecosystem nearby the village of Yenbeser, and after completing the education program, I thought it would be a good idea to invite the team to explore the Blue-water Mangroves of South Waigeo. So we took the kayaks, snorkel gear, and a small picnic, and did just that!





What a beautiful, peaceful, still place.




It is quite unique to find extensive mangrove forest growing directly on coral reef, and the effect is quite stunning. The visibility in the blue-water mangroves is crystal clear, and the protection afforded by the trees makes it so still that the surface reflects like a mirror. The mangrove roots filter the water, and provide a nursery grounds for small fish where they are safe from larger predators that can't swim freely amongst the roots. We enjoyed the clear water while snorkeling, and saw several interesting creatures... of course, the girls weren't very happy about the baby sea snake that close! Amongst other things, we observed a large vibrant flatworm, a medium-sized fish stoically guarding her nest (not sure what species, since we didn't want to get too close and interfere), plenty of soft corals clinging to the roots of the mangroves, and a plethora of tiny fish in amongst the mangrove roots...




I had actually been to the area before and discovered a secret passageway... a cave at the end of a small lagoon which is easily traversed by kayak.



After exiting the mangroves by way of the cave, and following the canal the north, it opens onto another stunning site...



What a glorious world!

A funny note about the name "Angela" in Indonesia...

No one can get it right! Not that I mind... in fact, I get a real kick out of the many variations I get! I find it most with kids in the villages... In the village of Yenbeser, although it was always preceded by Kakak (or Ka, for short), which means big sister, I got at least 5 different names! I was called everything from "Chi" to "Enji" to "Angke" to "Angel"!

I guess maybe folks are wondering why I've got internet access, and am able to post about the first Kalabia trip if I'm supposed to be on it!?!

Well, as it turns out, there are two reasons... First, I had planned to come back to finish up a few factsheets and comic books that we need to produce this month, and so although I have prepared the content, I have to sit down with our Graphic Designer to do the layout. THEN, I find out that in order to renew my visa, I have to go to Jakarta! This hasn't been an issue until now, and the organization has been able to process it, while we just need to send some pictures and our passports... however, new legislation has been passed that now requires us to be physically present to collect our bio-data (have a picture taken and take our fingerprints) in order to renew the visa!

So, I'm off to Jakarta tomorrow... but hopefully will be returning as quickly as possible to finish up the other work, and then re-join the Kalabia!

Yenbeser - little town with a huge heart!



The first village Kalabia visited in 2009 was Yenbeser... a tiny village on Waigeo Island in the Dampier Strait area of Raja Ampat.







This picture shows a traditional little fishing craft (with the palm frond roof) sitting in the water out in front of the village... the small square stilted structures are the washrooms.



It is true that life is simple in a Raja Ampat village. But nature is good to these people... In Yenbeser, they can literally have their rice cooked already for dinner, and THEN go to the jetty to catch the fish! They have a veritable fish soup right around their simple pier.







Every morning we watched a Wobbegong shark hang out under the pier, following his daily ritual... and in the late afternoon, we watched rays (including manta and devil rays) swim only meters away from the Kalabia while it was docked in the village… the afternoon of the last day of the program, I slipped into the water alongside them, and swam with 12 devil rays! It was magical… I have never seen them swimming in formation as they were, and so close I could have reached out and touched them! (I didn't of course, because I didn't want to scare them off, and lose the moment!)



The kids that participated in the program were so enthusiastic that the program was a guaranteed success from the beginning.



It doesn't take any more than a note about the message from the village head to see that the program did indeed have an impact... not only on the students that participated, but on the entire community. He gave a touching speech at the closure of the 3 full days of activities; he noted how special, and how important the program is for the future, for the kids as well as the environment. The teacher said that he was very impressed with the team, as well as with the activities and the style of learning... "Even though it often seems like the kids are simply playing, they learned a great deal in only three days... as can be seen by their results (in the final evaluation)"... He said that he had been inspired by the program and the team, and that he has a renewed hope for his students, and increased expectations for them... he was astounded by the amount of material they were able to learn, and truly understand, in such a short time because of the experiential education approach. (He also mentioned that he is sure that all the students will receive top grades on their biology/science/local element exams (because they already did, through the Kalabia program))!



The school bell for the small three-room school house, which is run by two teachers who tend to use the typical autocratic teaching style common throughout Indonesia:





Most touching of all, and, truth-be-told, brought tears to my eyes as well, was that some of the kids were in tears as the Kalabia pulled away from the jetty to set sail for the next village... it's amazing that in just three days they had learned so much and made such a strong connection with the Kalabia team!



Two of the older kids even stowed away on-board and swam back to their village just to get a few last few minutes with Kalabia!



Here I am with two of the fabulous Kalabia facilitators, Warda & Dece... another fabulous facilitator, Mona, is taking the picture!


See you soon!

Off with the Kalabia!

I have been in endless meetings (I think the count was up at 13 days of meetings, 8 days STRAIGHT, then a two-day hiatus (for followup from the meetings), then back at it!)... but tonight I'm leaving with the Kalabia (Environmental Education Vessel) for a 20-day trip with educational programming in and around the Dampier Strait area of Raja Ampat.

Although it's going to be a jam-packed schedule (not only with the villages, but because slammed in the middle there are meetings with the government, a media trip, and several urgent educational products to be finished off).

Regardless, I'm happy to be getting out of Sorong, and into the field for a while!

This post is just to let you know: Don't think I've given up on blogging... I'll be back, but it won't be until the end of the month! But surely with some great stories to tell from the field.

Evangelical Day

"Hari Raya Masuk Injil" is celebrated February 5th in Papua to commemorate the coming of Protestant Christianity to the province. Or, as I have also heard it put, the day the "Gospel entered Papua", or "Papuan Peace Day"!

I have always seen Christianity as an external entity in Papua... knowing that it was introduced here by foreign missionaries, however, having spent a considerable amount of time here, I really believe that Christianity is truly Papuan... they have certainly embraced it, and made it their own! I have been told that Christianity is seen as an agent of peace - that before "the gospel came to Papua", it was a land rife with violence due to warring between local tribal.

The island where this event occurred is called Mansinam, and is just off the coast of Monokwari, on the north coast of Papua -- it is here that German missionaries (Carel William Otto and Johan Gotlob) first landed in 1855! Apparently every five years a descendant from the missionaries' family actually returns to Papua to attend a special event... and this is that year!

Stink Meals

While in Sorong this time, I am staying at the "Je Meridien" Hotel (it’s actually a bit out of the way, across from the airport, several kilometers from the city centre). I don’t mind that it is a commute to the office and other areas of town, because it is clean, and quiet, and comfy (probably because it's still new)!



One thing that tickled my funny bone when I checked into my room and was reading the general rules of the hotel, was number 9 on the list: Please do not carry or consume the stink meals!!!! They are referring specifically to the Durian fruit (which really does have an offensive odour, and for me, taste too!), but I got a kick out of the translation!



(Sorry about the picture quality... my camera is having focusing issues in all-but perfect outdoor conditions)

Kalabia - The Team


This photo was actually taken over a year ago at the facilitator training for the Kalabia Program! I can't believe there isn't a better one around (and with the new spiffy uniforms, and together with our mascots, Tommy Teteruga and Karel Kalabia!)... but in the meantime... this is the FABULOUS gang of dedicated Kalabia Facilitators!



In this photo (l - r): Dece, Warda, Mona, Valend, Ange, Max, and Amal