Thailand Trip - No Crabs in Krabi!

Although during our trip to South Thailand's Krabi Province we were battered, bashed and bewildered, we also enjoyed phenomenal natural Beauty and ended our trip with Bells on … literally  … 

We were on the overnight train to Bangkok on Sunday night… and I thought we would “be there with Bells on”….  just like at all the Buddhist temples... we bought little bracelets with tiny bells on.  But I was WRONG – mine fell straight down the toilet (train tracks/railroad ties speeding by – gotta love train toilets… ) – no hope of recovery… so just Gabby arrived with bells on!  The sleeper train was a pretty great way to travel, though... kill two birds with one stone - no hotel and travel concurrently!  It was actually very comfortable.  Getting there was somewhat comical, however... being bumped from bus to boat to cattle truck to bus to van in a well-coordinated series of transportation designed to get you where you need to go on time.  Unfortunately I was remiss in taking a picture of the many colour-coded stickers that go along with this system - we looked like a kids sticker book by the time we got to the final leg of transport!

We certainly had our figurative bells on, and our karma revved up from our Krabi visit!  Our long weekend included the search for the most beautiful beach on earth… along with the throngs of drunk 17-year old Auzzie tourists who were at Koh Phi Phi Island in southern Thailand this weekend.  Actually, we were lucky to have ‘the beach’ to ourselves… I guess the 17-year olds all had hang-overs, so when we dragged ourselves out of bed at 7 am to charter a private boat, there was not another soul around – and we ended up with the place to ourselves.  And as soon as the big power boats and hoards started arriving, we high-tailed it out of there, having had our fill and a very special experience!

Getting in and out of 'the beach' was the challenge, as we had to swim in from our boat through a different access point, which consisted of waves crashing over barnacle-covered shallow rocks, and clambering up a cliff... hence the 'bashed and battered' status at the end of the weekend!

We did go on one very touristic ‘day tour’ to "James Bond Island" (aka Koh Phing Kan and Koh Tapu), among other sites… which was also very beautiful, if touristy.  I find it incredible how a 1970’s James Bond movie could make hundreds of tourists flock to this little limestone island daily… I don’t find it that much more beautiful or stunning than any of the other hundreds of limestone karst outcrops in the area of Phang Nga Bay National Park.

... although I guess it's the draw of taking part in that 'classic' James Bond photo shoot...

The day tour included kayaking around the caves, mangroves and 'rooms' of Tham Lod and Koh Hong.  The kayaks slip into the cathedral-like rooms via a small hidden entrance - ceiling-less cave walls drip with green ferns and orchids.

Then it was off to lunch at Panyee Floating Fishing Village (reminiscent of the Bajo or Bugis villages of Indonesia, and probably of the same origin as those 'sea gypsies').  Obviously this is not my pic, since our tour did NOT include an ultra-light trip around the bay to see the islands from the air...

In Panyee we also had baby monkeys thrust upon us with the demand of 100 Thai Baht (4 CAD!) to take pictures with them, without the option to decline... Funny money-making scheme...

We donated one dollar, and moved on to look around the funny markets set up exclusively for tourists...

HOW a tourist is going to transport a preserved porcupine fish back home in their luggage and through  customs is a mystery to me!?

On the way home we stopped off at the 'monkey cave' temple, Suwannakuha Temple, a beautiful Buddhist cave temple with extensive stalactites, stalagmites, and monkeys, as well as a stunning reclining buddha statue!

We received a blessing from the monks - both live, and animated, and headed back to our 'marshmallow' (the term of affection we referred to our little guest house in Ao Nang, Baan Purr).

Another day we found ourselves on a hidden beach (having been directed by a geocache!)... no access except by boat, or by negotiating monkeys on a rickety staircase along the cliff (our point of entry)!

... yet another day up to the "Pee Pee Viewpoint"...

The best part about the whole trip was the reunion, after seven years, with Gaby!!!  Oh, and the food... Thailand has amazing food...everywhere!  I mean, there are a few Indonesian dishes that I really like, but in Thailand everything is more flavourful!  What I don't understand is why they don't pick this up in Indonesia - I mean... they can grow exactly the same produce and ingredients... Anyway, Gaby was a fabulous food guide, showing me around to "the best pad thai in the world" (although it was a bit of an ordeal, we finally got there!), "the best curry in the world" (its called masaman), "the best chicken in the world", "the best toast in the world", etc, etc!!!  Oh, yes, and she knows her Thai beers as well!

We started our food-fest in Krabi, the land of the coconut shakes (delicious!!!)!

Shark Sadness

I know shark finning has been a big topic of discussion over the last few years...  it's big problem, especially as we see these species essentially becoming extinct as a result of it.  I still haven't seen it (haven't been able to find it in Indonesia!), but I know the documentary film Shark Water refocussed attention on this issue a couple years ago again.  So why still only discussion?  I guess too much money at stake.

It is sickening to me to see:

Illegal poaching of shark fins in Raja Ampat - an area supposedly declared for shark protection (or at least no shark fishing at ALL) just two years ago...

... and shops like this in open operation in the middle of the international airport in Jakarta (on my last transit there)!

The price tag on this fin was 1000 USD!

In a recent discussion about the issue Martin and I were lamenting that the only real way to put a dint in the problem is to work on targeting the market, because let's be honest, if the demand is there, the poor fishermen have little choice but to provide for the market...  So a hard-core education program/campaign is needed in places like Hong Kong, Singeapore, and other major Asian shark-fin consuming nations.  Well, I see just today that Shark Savers are doing just that with their campaign "Pledge to not eat Shark Fin Soup" - kudos!

Hot Rocks!

If you have never experienced this unique treatment, you should indulge at least once in this exquisite moment...

I did today.

The therapist at the small spa around the corner from my guesthouse actually knew what she was doing, which was nice compared to some of the massages on the street (she even found my 'funny shoulder' without any mention from me).  It was very therapeutic, and I can imagine in the winter it would be even more wonderful for people who experience aches and pains!  The session was quoted at an hour and a half, but in fact lasted a blissful two and a half hours!

I was sort of expecting to have the stones placed on my back, etc, and left to sit there, but in fact, that is another kind of hot stone massage....  the treatment I had was called Colour Hot Stone Massage.  It is based on the Japanese Shiatsu Massage.  The 'colour' refers to the fact that the stones are actually not the usual black granite/basalt stones, but various... each stone/colour has special properties.  I received the light granite.  The therapist said that the Red Jasper was good for circulation and digestion, and the White Jade was good for the renal system and body PH balance.  The stones are like half-eggs, smooth and soft, and seem the perfect size and shape to fit the contours of the body.  The stones are said to "contain repairing micronized minerals and are coupled with aromatic essential oils to relieve muscular, mental and emotional stress". (from the brochure)

The heat from the incredibly hot stones are transferred into the body tissues by the therapist, then at a tolerable temperature, they are placed on the 'chakra', and used to actually massage, centered around these points.  There was definitely a deeper healing power at work - it was incredibly rejuvenating and reenergizing, and seeped deep into the core of the body... not just on the superficial tissues like a regular 'street massage'.

There is definitely something very spiritual about this massage - this was confirmed when the therapist also explained that she has to care for her stones...  as if they were her children... cared for, nurtured... she said she gives them sunlight every day, and sometimes turns on a little music for them as well...  here are the traditional black basalt stones pictured in their cradle.

... and here are 'my stones' in their hot water heater...

Thai Trip - Thai Massage

Last night after being on the scooter all day I decided to try a true traditional Thai massage at a place just around the corner from my hostel...

Sabai means healthy, well, fine, relaxed, tranquil... all of which I was... the day after...  "Thai offers many ways to intensify an adjective. One way is simply to repeat it. Thus sabai sabai could be translated into English slang as "everything's chill" or "not a care in the world". It is wellness almost beyond words, the Thais' heaven on earth."  (www.thingsasian.com)

It wasn't exactly what I was expecting - I had my body twisted, turned, pulled, pressed, stretched and contorted into positions I didn't even think were possible!  There is no oil, so you're fully dressed (in the provided thai pants), and the masseuse 'works' you with her hands, forearms, elbows, legs, and even feet.  Oh yes, and I was sat on.

Each of the positions/stretches have descriptive terms, like this one, "Open the Wind of Eyes":

Thai massage is an ancient tradition, dating back over 2,500 years, seen as encompassing the Buddhist concept of metta (loving kindness).  I didn't think there was very much love or kindness, although it certainly felt therapeutic!  The massage technique is based on the energy flow through the body, focussing on 10 lines called 'sen' (essentially chakras) to release blockages and ease flow of energy around the body.

All this for just 200 Baht (or approximately 6 dollars).

There are other, non-traditional types of massages which will cost you a lot more... the Naughty Massage, which seems to be more common here than even in Bali...  these massages usually offer a 'happy ending' for men as the massaging goes beyond the parts that traditional massueses never reach.  Flashing neon lights and super-sexy, well made up 'masseuses' is a tell-tale sign of such a place... just walk on by!

7 Steps to Happiness!

Only 7?

The bulletin board at the "Big Buddha" Meditation centre looks like this:

It reads:  To be happy within 7 minutes - Act Now!  Mingmongkolsattha 45 Foundation would like to invite everyone to discover the real Happiness by yourself.  With a simple method, just 7 minutes.  We would like you to try, by following the example pictures.

It starts with the ready position...

And takes you through the steps in pictures.... I'm not sure I felt much happier specifically after having completed this, but it's probably a process ;)

Hey, worth a shot, right!?

But really, how could you not be happy as a Buddhist in Thailand... there are lovely little bells being rung by the breeze everywhere you go...

Diving from Phuket

aka Depression

People say I'm spoiled because I am used to the reefs in Raja Ampat, but I think it's more than that.

The diving that I did on day trips from Phuket was devastating.  The sites are a shambles, and there is NOTHING there.  The corals (where there are) are completely bleached, or already dead, and often algae-covered.  Thus no fish, either.  The sites we dived:  Day One - Banana Bay and Raya Noi Bay on Koh Racha Noi, then Bay #3 on Koh Racha Yai.  Day Two - Koh Doc Mai, as well as Koh Bida Nok and Koh Bida Nai (on Phi Phi Ley).

Apparently they have had a serious warming event over the last couple months (water temperatures of 32oC)... but much of what I saw was not recent, and in my humble opinion has no chance of coming back.  On the second day (PhiPhi Ley) there was a lot of coral that was simply bleached, and showed signs of possible recovery, but day one (Racha Noi/Racha Yai) seem beyond hope.  So sad.

Anyway I did manage to spot a few things amongst the death and destruction...

(emperor shrimp on cushion star)

(free-swimming moray)

(nudi and eggs)

(frog fish amongst soft-coral branches)

(more nudis)

They say the Similan Islands (on the West side of Phuket) are amazing, but I don't know that I would bother after what I saw here...  who's to say it's not just more of the same?  Anyway, the 'top-side' here was stunning!

... and the dive guide, Bea, that I had on the second day was absolutely fabulous!

The diving setup was also new and strange to me... we were 20 divers (apparently in the high season, they take up to 40!?), diving straight from the back of the big boat!  It felt a bit like being a cow in a ranching operation...

Thailicious!

I have decided (after much inspiration) that one cannot be in Thailand and exclude food from the blog (sorry, Bro... I know you think I include food way too often)!

The food here is incredible... I mean, a lot of it is actually somewhat similar to Indonesian food, only a thousand times more flavourful!  So I wanted to share with you a few of my favourite finds so far (I'm sure there will be more on this in future blogs):

Pad Thai
(*with a view)

Not what I was expecting, since it's not even remotely similar to the Pad Thai I've had in Thai restaurants at home (no peanut sauce!?), but delicious nonetheless.  The variety of condiments included peanuts, dried chilis, chili sauce, vinegar, salt and shrimp paste...

Oh, and the coconut frosty drink that rounded out the meal...

Mango Sticky Rice

Absolutely decadent... yummy yummy yummy... Mom, I think you should come to Thailand just so you can eat this treat daily!  They use perfectly ripe fragrant, delicious mangoes over a bed of sweet sticky rice, all doused in Coconut milk and sprinkled with roasted sesame and other seeds!  This is the sticky rice queen at the market.  She also serves up many other delicious, if odd-looking, concoctions.

I have no idea what this dinner dish was called... it was boneless chicken on a bed of yellow rice (one of my favourites in Indonesia) served with a few greens (including parsley... yum!).  The best part was the light soup/broth that it was served with... I swear I tasted ginger in there, and I would guess the idea is that it's to aid digestion.

I can't wait to digest some more delicious Thai foods!  Gabriela and I are planning to "sit and devour tons of spicy food"... so will no doubt have more to report after THAT!

Thai Trip - Phuket by Scooter

I spent the day on a rented scooter (with a flimsy plastic bucket for a helmet).

I was letting the search for geocaches dictate my route, but made many many stops along the way... here are just a few of the fabulous sights I saw!

Patong, Kata and Karon beaches...

.. and the slightly more hidden away, Kata Noi Beach

Wat Chalong (Chalong Temple)

The Big (we're talking a huge - 45 m tall) Buddha

...which was shrouded in mist when I arrived, but cleared so I enjoyed a reasonable view...

and more...

(at my lunch stop, the waitress provided me this 'ice eau de cologne towel', and MAN was it refreshing!  oh, and as you can see from the residue one swipe of the face leaves on the towel, being on a motorcycle is not the cleanest activity!)

Of course after covering so many miles, refueling was required...

A gas stop.  Not dissimilar to Indonesia, there are many 'gas stations' along the routes here in Phuket - however it seems that Thailand has a preference for Jonny Walker (whereas in Indonesia it's Absolute Vodka)!

And then there was the other refueling:  food! (more about Thai food in another post!)  I stopped at the Phuket town night market for a delicious meal which I don't know how to pronounce...