Friday, May 23, 2008

Cakwe



Martin and I held off on breakfast one morning and ending up eating at the Singapura Bakery (Manado). I, in usual fashion, tried something new… Cakwe. The best I can describe it, would be by its resemblance to Yorkshire Pudding. Yummy, but certainly not very healthy! Like most Indonesian food, even this pastry is served with HOT SAUCE!?

I had it again in Jakarta just recently and really wished I could bring some home... (it was only 1000 Rp. in Jakarta; the equivalent of 10 cents)!


Lax of Late...

Sorry folks, I know I've fallen behind terribly in blogging... but I've had a busy month with some travels where I didn't take my laptop. I'll get back on top of it soon hopefully since the Grand Launch for our Education Program has been postponed due to scheduling conflicts of the high-ranking government officials who are supposed to preside over the ceremonies....

In the meantime, I'll post a 'filler'... one of those back-up blogs that I've been saving for a rainy day!

Friday, April 18, 2008

Baggage Carts

One of the many amusing things about flying into Sorong...

Monday, April 14, 2008

Coconuts!


(a beach in the Fam area of Raja Ampat)

Yes, I know, you're all thinking... 'enough with the coconuts, already!'... and no, it's not an obsession... (maybe borderline)! But the palm tree, and coconuts are such a constant and important part of life here in the Pacific that I have to delve a little deeper into its uses and background so you can get an idea.

This section on the four phases of development, I found on a website called Dive Training, by Amy Gulick.

One coconut takes a full year to mature from a flower into a ripe fruit. During this time the coconut passes through four development stages, each with different food properties:

Stage 1. When the coconut is immature, or green, the liquid within the inner shell is sweet and refreshing, and can yield up to a liter of juice. Since it’s sealed in its own hygienic container, the liquid can be used in place of sterile water for medicinal purposes, and is often used to treat dehydration and upset stomachs. During World War II, the liquid of the green coconut was used as a substitute for a medical saline drip, saving the lives of many soldiers stationed in the tropical Pacific.

Stage 2. As the coconut begins to ripen, a thin white layer of “meat” begins to line the inner shell. The “meat” has the consistency of a soft-boiled egg at this stage and can be eaten with a spoon.

Stage 3. The coconut continues to ripen as it remains on the tree. The meaty inner lining of the shell thickens and hardens, and the liquid turns to tasteless water. The fresh meat can be shredded and used in cooking, or dried to produce “copra,” from which coconut oil is extracted.

Stage 4. If a coconut ripens fully on the tree and falls to the ground, it can germinate under the right conditions. As it sprouts, a white spongy sweet ball, called the “apple,” develops within the inner shell, absorbing both the liquid and meat. The apple can be eaten, and is considered a sweet delicacy.

Other food and beverage products derived from the coconut palm make the tree a versatile and vital source of sustenance to tropical cultures. In addition to the juice of the coconut, another beverage comes from a different part of the tree. The flowering stalk, called the inflorescence, can be bound, cut and tapped for its sap. Called sweet toddy, the fresh sap is loaded with nutrients and is the daily drink in many tropical cultures. The sap can also be boiled to make syrup, or fermented into an alcoholic beverage.

A common product used in the cuisine of Southeast Asia — coconut milk — is not the same thing as coconut juice from the inner shell. Coconut milk is made by soaking fresh or dried coconut meat in warm water, filtering the solid material, and allowing the “cream” to rise to the surface. Coconut oil, derived from copra, is also used in cooking.

Another food product comes from the cylindrical stalks of new, unopened leaf shoots at the top of the tree. Called heart of palm, the food is prized for its crunchy texture and refreshing taste. Extracting the heart kills a coconut palm tree, and as a result a heart of palm salad earned the nickname “millionaire’s salad.” Fortunately, there are other species of palm trees that do not die when their hearts are harvested, and these provide heart of palm in commercial quantities.

The Giving Tree
The variety of edible products derived from the coconut palm qualifies the tree for VIP — Very Important Plant — status. But wait; there’s more. As the Indonesians say, “there are as many uses for the coconut palm as there are days of the year.”
The tree is an excellent source of building materials. Posts and beams are made from the tree’s trunk. Thatched roofs, made by placing the long leaves close together, keep water out and allow air to circulate. Strong siding comes from the dried spines of the fronds. In addition to providing materials for structural shelters, the standing trees shelter people and animals from sun and rain. They also act as an important barrier to tropical storms, as they’re flexible and able to withstand high winds.

For clothing and household needs, the husk of the coconut is spun into a saltwater-resistant fiber called “coir,” used to make ropes, nets, mats, brushes and sewing thread. The leaves of the tree can be woven into hats, baskets, fans and brooms. Other household items such as bowls, spoons and buttons are carved from the hard shell of the coconut. Handicrafts and jewelry, made from various parts of the tree, are sold to tourists. All parts of the tree can be composted into fertilizer, and the leaves used as animal feed. The leaves, husks and shells are burned for fuel.
Commercially, charcoal filters made from coconut shells are used in gas masks and cigarettes, and are considered superior to filters made from other sources. The cosmetic and hygiene industries have incorporated coconut oil into makeup, soap, moisture creams, and hair care products.



Throughout history, man has tinkered with nature in an attempt to create the perfect plant. In the case of the coconut palm tree, nature beat him to it.

Friday, April 11, 2008

The Coconut Pearl

If your first reaction is like mine, you'll probably wonder what on earth I'm talking about... a pearl that's made in a coconut? And if you're like me, you're probably thinking someone is trying to take advantage of your gullible nature, and pull your leg... but indeed, it is a real thing! I have seen one with my own eyes, and held it in my hands.

Rumoured to be found in less than one in a million coconuts, the coconut pearl is said to be the rarest botanical gem in the world! And my friend has found one... in fact, he is in negotiations with a buyer to sell it for the equivalent of about 5 000 US dollars. Now this is a heck of a lot of money for an islander from Raja Ampat, but I have since done a little investigation online and found out that he may be getting ripped off... it's worth may be more like 60,000 Euro! (When he gets back to town I'll ask him if I can take a picture of his pearl to add it here.)

The way an oyster pearl is formed is much to same as the manner in which a coconut pearl comes into being - as a blemish. Some foreign object plants itself within the host and becomes the nucleus for the pearl. The host tissue/ organism recognizes this mass as a foreign irritant, and takes protective measures against it; the foreign mass is encased with matter secreted by the organism... which then develops into something valued...

A coconut pearl is spherical, and really does resemble a salt-water pearl with an amazing shine. Apparently, sometimes coconut pearls can be slightly colored, for example with a green, or slightly ecru tinge. Regardless, these gems are truly treasured, and are often set in gold and silver.

Not only are there questions as to whether coconut pearls really exist (some say that all the known occurrences of coconut pearls are fakes), but opinions about their origin (and thus their chemical composition) are varied. A common conclusion is that coconut pearls are a carbonate of calcium; others believe that it is a silicon compound (like an opal). What is certain is that they originate in the 'embryonic region' of the coconut - ie the 'eyes' of the coconut!

Now that I've seen one with my own eyes, I believe that real coconut pearls do exist. Whether they have the magical and medicinal powers they are said to possess, I have yet to receive first-hand proof! Like any truly rare object, they are said to have certain powers as talismans. The coconut pearl is said to expel negative energy and bring luck, and because it 'stimulates the personal magnetism of the person who possess the pearl', the coconut pearl also increases business dealings and guarantees social success!

If you're looking for me, I'll be combing the beaches of Raja Ampat cracking open coconuts...

Tuesday, April 08, 2008

Coconut Apples!



We had the good luck to take a break while on our hike in Lombok for kelapa muda (fresh young coconut). In fact, I don't think I've ever been on a hike in Indonesia that hasn't involved coconuts at some point!

Anyway, this isn't about drinking the coconut... that experience just reminded me that I have been wanting to share my enthusiasm for another delicacy from that same source; something that I first tried in Ecuador, but have come to appreciate in Indonesia: Coconut Apples. In the local language here it's referred to as Tombong; in spanish, they also call it manzana coco (the apple of the coconut)!


(A big Thank you goes out to hand model Cecilia for her assistance with this shot...)


Doesn't look like much, does it??? but mmm...

It's my favourite fresh, natural tasty treat while on the islands. It has a very unique taste and texture; rich, semi-sweet, watery, like a crisp spongy mass. Somehow it reminds me a little bit of waterchestnuts, but that may just be the 'uniqueness' of it!? The taste is slightly different depending on how old the coconut is when you actually break it open.

Scientifically speaking, the coconut apple is actually the seed's functional cotyledon (the base of the embryo), which has swollen into an absorbing organ that fills the entire cavity of the seed as it digests the endosperm during the germination process. The endosperm tissue is the white 'meat' that we usually think of as 'coconut'. In this way of thinking the brown 'shell' is actually the seed coat, or testa.

As the germination process continues, the coconut apple dissolves and absorbs the nutrient-rich endosperm tissue to supply the developing shoot with sugars and minerals. Eventually, the developing palm becomes self sufficient, as its leaves produce sugars through photosynthesis and its roots absorb minerals from the soil.

The coconut "apple" is rich in sugars and is a sweet delicacy in tropical countries.

So... how to enjoy this treat?

First, you have to find a coconut at the right stage... a coconut that has fallen from the tree naturally, has weathered, and is just starting to sprout... (actually the one in the picture below was a little past-prime; better with just a small shoot)




Then, you peel the husk away from the hard shell of the coconut with a machete...


Split the nut, and enjoy!!!

Sunday, April 06, 2008

Lombok



The lesser-known isle just a hop-skip from Bali in a Fokker is called Lombok. It is different from Bali in many, many ways... and in fact, seems to share nothing more than a geographic proximity!

The traditional culture of Lombok is Sasak, a local version of Islam, although with many notable exceptions to the Islam practiced by most Muslim-Indonesians. In the area we visited in the North, there were still people living in traditional Sasak villages, however, many have now moved to the larger centers in pursuit of money and a more modern way of life. We also saw a few motorcycles on the traditional footpaths!



The Sasak take their pinang chewing even more seriously than the people of Papua! There are special boxes and tools devoted to the consumption of this mouth-reddening 'delicacy'!



... however, like the Papuans... they start young!




Our trip... after hopping off the Fokker, we hopped onto some motorbikes (rented at the airport), and after a visit with the very friendly and helpful Renjani Trekking people in Mataram, were on our way to Senaru village in the North. The trip north was interesting; at times lush and green, then stark and arid... A few of the scenes we passed along the way:


The 'head-carrying' picture. I don't know how it is that I don't have a picture of the women carrying woven baskets atop their heads with incredible balance - they were everywhere!



These 'barn' rooves, as I came to refer to them are typical Lombok style.



We had to stop for gas only once along the way, at this 'gas station'!


Along the way, one of our travel-mates Lisa toppled off her motorcycle, and although she wasn’t seriously injured, she certainly wasn’t getting back on. So, we had a motorcycle with no rider in the middle of nowhere, and oviously, an imminent change in plans.

Our plan was to stay at the base of Mount Rinjani (the highest mountain in Indonesia besides Papua). I still hope to come back and climb this giant; when there is more time, and in the right season! As you can see, the views were spectacular!



This was the view from the breakfast table.




We stayed at the base of the mountain for one night anyway since it was certainly too late to start the trek back to find a doctor that could check out Lisa's arm. The next morning, after sending Lisa safely on her way with a Canadian we met who lives in the mountain village, and happened to be going exactly where she needed to go (isn't it wonderful how things just work out like that!?), Cecilia and I went for a nice hike that went from Rice Paddys to Waterfalls through traditional villages on ancient footpaths.

















After an invigorating bath at the waterfall whose waters are said to be therapeutic, we gathered up our things and headed to Senggigi to meet up with Lisa again. We opted for coastal road, which was windy but offered breath-taking views... of course, there were several construction zones along the way that made for an interesting jolting ride with two gals on a small scooter traversing potholes that all-but swallowed us up! Luckily we came out the other end of them all, a true test to my back-road dirt bikin' days! Oh, except that a heavy-equipment operator almost killed us with his swinging backhoe bucket! Just for that extra little adrenaline kick...

Because Lisa used to be the manager of a Sheraton hotel, she hooked us up with a great deal at the Sengiggi Sheraton, and we lived it up in true relaxation style for a few days on the beach! We used her 'injuries' as a good excuse to stay put, but really, this is just what the doctor ordered for all of us! Lots of beach. Lots of reading. Lots of lazing in the pool with the crocodiles. Aaah....






This goodness even included room service - WOW! (No, that is not the Indonesian pembantu with the tray of food! haha, sorry, Ceci!)


Wednesday, April 02, 2008

... and this was just the beginning...

Well, after getting off the boat at 5 am and doing a speed re-pack, I headed directly to the Sorong airport to begin my journey to Bali to meet up with friends, and start off on our tour around Lombok.

After several flight delays and cancellations, including an unplanned over-night in Makassar, I finally arrived in Bali. Because of my delayed arrival, we spent a lovely day touring around on rented motorcycles, the afternoon shopping at the Ubud market, and the evening at one of the traditional dance performances at a temple.

This was the first time our friend Cynthia had been to a cultural performance in Bali (a must-see for any visitor to Bali)... she chose the dance by the ticket-seller, and her instincts were right on... we saw several dances that are not the most famous in Bali, but very special, and certainly entertaining.



One new dance that I had never seen before was the 'Cendrawasih' (Bird of Paradise) dance, which I found a little confusing, since the Bird of Paradise is endemic to Papua, not Bali... but their movements were right on, and so closely approximated the mating dance of these birds, that I feel sure they have seen the original actors (ie. the birds themselves) perform it!






The other treat was the "Rabbit Dance", performed by young girls between the ages of 5-9... outstanding!




The next morning we all headed to the airport -- Lisa, Cecilia and I off to Lombok, while Sigit and Cynthia were headed for Flores... We shared a much-needed coffee (can you believe they have Starbucks in Indonesia!?), and set off!




(Cynthia, the coffee connoisseur)

Tuesday, April 01, 2008

Flying a Fokker

On an already shortened holiday, when given the choice:

20 minutes on a Fokker
OR
20 hours of bike, bus, ferry, mini-bus, and who knows what other obstacles

It seems like a no-brainer... and to tell you the honest truth, had I known it was a fokker, I would've made the snap decision even faster, just with the knowledge that then I could say "I flew a Fokker".





I have never been on such a short plane ride in my life! Anyway, that's how we got from Denpasar, Bali to Mataram, Lombok... caught our first glimpse of Mount Rinjani, and from there, started our Lombok adventure (which turned out to be somewhat of a mis-adventure - stay tuned)!





Read the fine print. Note the incongruency??? The worst thing they could hope to do is confuse people in an emergency situation; so which is it??? Is the life vest under my seat, or is it the seat itself!? No, this was not an April Fool's joke. Aaahhh... Indonesian air-carriers never cease to impress!

Thursday, March 20, 2008



Does it not look like this woman is in the process of slicing up the brains of a large animal???


On our first day in Warsambin, as we were walking over to meet with the head of the district and the village head in order to coordinate/socialize the Kalabia program to them, we passed by a woman who was doing a funny wiggling dance while slicing up something that, upon first glance, looked to me to be brains! I asked. In fact, it was a 'sarang semut' (ants' nest), and the wiggly dance was the reaction to the ants, whose bit is like fire! Apparently the local villagers cut these nests from the trees, slice them up (and remove the ants, of course) and use them for medicinal purposes. The slices can be steeped in hot water and made into a healing tea, or eaten! According to the local shaman it's good for all manner of ailment, including cancer, asthma, intestinal issues, heart problems, or just as a general whole-body detoxifying cleanse, which probably means it's has anti-oxidant properties... but of course, no formal scientific testing has been done to investigate the medicinal properties as of yet!

I'll be having ants' nest tea before bed this eve!

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Kali Biru
The Blue River

On our way home from Warsambin, we were invited to take the opportunity to stop by a local 'sacred site' called Kali Biru. The convergence of two rivers of differing temperatures forms a unique and refreshing area where the people of Warsambin not only go to hold various ceremonies, but also for recreation.

The two rivers, one whose source is icy cold, the other, tepid, come together rather abruptly, causing a huge increase in the flow speed of the river. To stand in the river exactly at the point of their convergence creates a very odd sensation as one second freezing water is rushing by you causing you to feel the cold deep in your bones, the next second, you are flooded with warmth. We enjoyed bathing in the crystal clear blue river while gazing up at the beautiful scenery of luscious green rainforest with all manner of avian life flocking around us (including white cockatoos, blue and green and red parrots, and other, less-conspicuous varieties).

Lead by a friend from the local village, we also tried a local scrub treatment, "Gosok"; using river stones to exfoliate while seated along the riverbank. A treat for me, especially after tromping around in the muddy mangroves with the kids earlier that day!

Sunday, March 16, 2008

Kalabia
(the program)

I have written about the namesake, and the boat (this previous post has been updated), but what about the PROGRAM itself!?




You can check out this previous post for a little background. You'll notice, everything has been moved back of course, postponed, and delayed over and over again... As you can see from my latest posts, the Kalabia has now arrived in Raja Ampat and completed ONE program in Warsambin, Mayalibit.

Basically, the Kalabia Education Boat is going to tour around to the 89 villages within Raja Ampat delivering intensive 3-day education programs. We tried to push for longer programs, to make programming more complete and lessons more effective, however once we looked at the schedule and the number of villages, as well as how spread out they are, we decided we have to optimize our time and push for a three-day full program. The Kalabia will only be able to reach each village after TWO years even so!



There are three elements to the program itself. The youth/kids program, the adult program (which will involve fishermen and women, and will mainly function to support the other conservation initiatives in Raja Ampat, such as Marine Protected areas and Livelihoods programs) and a program for teachers to ensure the sustainability of Environmental Education in Raja Ampat. With the current setup, and because the entire program is completely new, we will begin by running only the youth program, with open sessions for adults and teachers. As the youth program is perfected, and the team gets more familiar with the material and program, we will begin to implement the more specific and tailored adult activities as well as teacher-training.



The youth program is a series of highly-interactive activities focusing on conservation issues relevant to local communities. It is designed to provide unique, hands-on experiences where students investigate for themselves the natural environment around them, and are invited to think critically about threats to conservation of the same. Participants learn about the interconnected nature of the ecosystems with which they must live in harmony. Song, dance, story-telling and art are all incorporated into the program to make it accessible to all learning styles, and especially appropriate for the local culture which thrives on these methods of entertainment. Through increased understanding of the ecosystems of Raja Ampat, as well as their unique place in the world, students feel pride and a sense of ownership, which is the first step to caring about and protecting their corner of Raja Ampat.

THE FIRST TIME...
KALABIA MAIDEN PROGRAM VOYAGE
Warsambin, Teluk Mayalibit, Raja Ampat

The small village of Warsambin at the mouth of Mayalibit Bay could not have been a more appropriate location to begin the Kalabia program. Mayalibit Bay is home to the true native peoples of Raja Ampat, the first MPA declared in Raja Ampat, and also a wonderful community of warm-hearted, highly-traditional people. The language of the region, bahasa Maya, contributed the name Kalabia to our Education Vessel. Mayalibit itself is a saltwater bay jutting deep into the island of Waigeo (one of the 'four kings') accessed only by a narrow entrance, which contributes to the uniqueness of the area.




The three-day program was a resounding success with the entire community of Warsambin! Students were thrilled with this novel experience and formed cohesive groups, working as teams, while learning lessons imperative to the conservation of the stunning nature that surrounds them.



While exploring the various ecosystems close to their village, students not only had fun, but learned lessons that will stay with them for a lifetime!




The bonds formed between the participants and the members of the education team, even in a short, three-day period, were precious to experience. The team, even though this was the first time out of the starting gate (and two team members were unable to join us), succeeded in creating an energetic, positive atmosphere of learning and fun, while also supporting and sharing in local culture and tradition. One of my favourite activities was the spontaneous yosban (traditional singing/dancing) with which we closed out the activities on the final day with students.




Because the Kalabia was able to dock at the village, we were able to experience a high-degree of interaction with the local villagers; people were welcomed aboard the vessel at all times, relationships blossomed, and the boat itself became the center of activities for the village for large parts of the day... especially in the evenings, when we provided rare entertainment in the form of conservation films and slide-shows of village life.




I'd do it again... and will... next month!

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Ever have one of those weeks where you have a 'to-do' list a mile long, but at the end of the week, although you've accomplished an enormous amount, you can't cross a single entry off that silly, nagging list!? Well, that's the kind of week I've had this week!

It seems like every single time I settled in to complete one of the tasks on my list, another, more urgent, yet unforeseen, task was presented to me! The daunting part is that all those things still have to get done, more or less immediately... yet we're off to the field on the maiden Program voyage of the Kalabia at 4 am tomorrow morning (hence the majority of the unexpected hiccups)!

I don't want to call this her (the Kalabia's) maiden program voyage, either, because actually (due to all the hiccups, and issues of having TWO separate organizations involved in the operations of the boat), our time for this particular trip has been drastically cut down; now we will only have time to complete one program in one village. It is imperative that we do this, however, before the inter-institutional meeting on the 18th where we will discuss the mechanism and logistics of operating the boat, and the program, between TWO organizations -- we need a shake-down run!

So, with the team also split in half (the 'boss', whose status quo is 'sick', is under-the-weather again, so can't participate, and another team member having been invited to the 'Indonesian Youth Leadership Award (YAY Valend!)), we're setting sail for Mayalibit Bay, the home to the original communities of Raja Ampat!

Wish us luck!

Friday, March 07, 2008

An Abandoned Safari Park

Along our 'off-the-beaten path' route one of our Saturdays in Bali, chapter two of our motorcycle adventures (undertaken in the search for the ultimate waves for Martin to surf): encountering an eerie and somewhat disturbing area.

Rotting crocodiles stink. I don't think anything stinks worse than a crocodile carcass in a state of decay!

Abandoned and left to their own devices when the 'Safari Park' went bankrupt, the crocodile population exploded! Check out this 'pile of dile':



But even though they are not being fed chunks of raw meat by park wardens as before, they have not adopted a canabalistic lifestyle... Apparently monkeys used to be the main attraction at this park, but we didn't see any signs of them swinging from the trees... in fact, we heard none of the usual bird song that is usually part of life in Bali either! I guess it's no wonder they are no more!



I hate to start into something that we undoubtedly become a rant, but stumbling upon this abandoned area, other than raising my sensibilities about the inhumane treatment of these poor, caged creatures, left to rot, also brought back a thought that I have seen over and over again, here in Indonesia, as well as at home; I am absolutely disgusted at this consumptive, unsustainable attitude and way of life... instead of repairing what's broken (not to mention taking care of things so they don't break in the first place, for that matter!), buy or build a new one; a bigger, better one! Throw the old away... don't think about the impact, or the fact that our poor planet can't TAKE any more of the pressure we're putting it under; can't take any more of our garbage! I can't believe the amount of garbage everywhere... even on the most remote beaches of Raja Ampat, and most recently, Bali, broken sandals, empty plastic containers of various shapes and sizes... We're claiming it all for ourselves, and our garbage... covering over natural areas with cement, introducing things that don't belong there into the mix! Sorry, I don't want this to turn into a tirade!

As we were leaving this dilapidated area, by means of another road, we see a big billboard sign for "Bali Safari Park... new, opening in October 2007"; only 5 kms from this one! Hope the stench from rotting crocodiles doesn't make them decide to move it another 5k down the road... I wonder if it, too, will look like this in another 5-10 years or so?





Funny... I am just going through posting a few old posts (this one was originally written while in Bali, Feb 18th)... some of the thoughts expressed above are more concisely discussed in "The Story of Stuff".

Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Wani

My latest new fruit sensation discovery is Wani, or 'White Mango' as it is translated. Delicious. Honestly, it has a very unique flavour, which carries just enough mango nuance to make it irresistible.



While we were waiting for the Kalabia to set off, we had a little time to explore Sanur, Bali, where our hotel was located (and known as the 'upper class Kuta'). There are a couple little fruit shops that will sell you whole fresh fruit, or chop it or juice it for you on the spot... this one was right next door to the hotel, so I got my fill of this magical new fruit while we were there!

Monday, March 03, 2008

The Story of Stuff



This is a great site, I'm diggin' it... right on.

Check it out!