Toraja and Mamasa



In a last-ditch effort to see a little more of this country that I have lived in for two years, and still feel I've seen so little of, I took some holidays and headed to one of the top tourist destinations in Indonesia: Tana Toraja. Toraja trails only Bali in annual tourist traffic, but doesn't have the 'overrun by foreigners' feel that certain areas of Bali does. Of course, it helps that a good friend of mine is based in Makassar (the gateway to Toraja), and another friend based in Rantepao (Toraja)... I have to take advantage of all these CUSO cooperants/local tour guides spread all around the place while I still can! Who else would know that I would get such pleasure from taking a ride in a SiTor (TakSI TORaja)!?



I flew to Makassar with Express Air -- with Express it's direct, two-hour flight, and you'll never guess what they served as a meal!?! ...



In Makassar I met up with Cecilia (and her warm and wonderful adopted family), and we immediately departed for Toraja on an overnight bus. We arrived in Rantepao, Toraja at about 6 am, checked into the hotel, and went straight to sleep; because regardless of the fact that the buses have almost(*) fully reclining seats and air conditioning, there's really no way to get any shut-eye when you're constantly slipping down your seat which sits at a somewhat awkward 130 degree angle! Luckily Cecilia had forewarned me (in fact, instilled within me an absolute fear) that the climate control onboard leaves a bit to be desired, and I should be prepared to feel like an ice cube for the better part of the 12-hour journey. It wasn't so bad.

Of course, while planning the hiking part of our trip, I was also advised several times to bring lots of warm clothes. Psshaw... I have never been cold in Indonesia... in fact, I was questioning whether there exists such a thing as 'cold' here, except maybe in the remote mountains of Papua where there is said to be perpetual snow!

Well... I've been living on the coast in the hottest areas of the country, and apparently two years is enough for the human body to adapt its physiology to climate; the first night we spent in the village I was DAMN COLD! We huddled under piles of blankets (luckily, graciously provided by our hosts!), and in the morning stayed wrapped in our sarongs while we strolled through mist, and marveled at the fact that we could see our own breath! And we basically laughed... a lot!



Probably connected to the fact that we were being pretty silly! (In a way that didn't risk being culturally insensitive, and in fact had everyone around laughing with us...)



Because of our connections (Myrna's organization works with this village), we were invited to stay in a kampung (a small village) up in the mountains of Toraja to attend a traditional funeral ceremony. The culture, and especially the unique funerary traditions, is what Toraja is known for, and so, not being funeral season (July/August), I felt really lucky that we were going to get to witness the celebrations.



'Burials' are usually the placement of the deceased in a cave... these are the remains in one of the more famous sites around Toraja called Kete Kesu.



A traditional Torajan village with the rice storage buildings (Lumbung) facing the traditional homes (Tongkonan).



The wife with her dearly departed... don't you just love the funky coffin!?


We couldn't stay for the entire celebration (it's a week-long event!), even though we were welcomed, and even pressured to. We certainly learned a lot... and we got a taste of the proceedings - literally!



Tradition dictates that animal sacrifices (usually pigs and kerbau (water-buffalo)) are made throughout the festivities; it seems every time I made a new friend, he ended up as dinner...





This tradition feeds the hundreds of visitors that might come to any one funeral. At a high-profile funeral, there may be as many as 10 buffalo sacrificed... water-buffalo are highly-prized possessions, and may be worth between 8 and 25 million rupiah each (800 - 2500 dolars), depending on their age, markings and coloration (the blue-eyed, mottled black and white animals being most highly-valued). Water-buffalo have quite the life in Toraja... they used to work in the rice paddys, but since the advent of the tractor plough, they have been retired to live a life of luxury (until someone dies). Owners are even said to bathe their kerbau daily with shampoo (while they themselves may bathe less-frequently)!




Another thing Toraja is known for is COFFEE! Their Arabica coffee may just be one of the finest in the world... I will bring some home for you all to try!




So after a few wonderful days exploring Toraja, we set off for the real 'purpose' of the trip: to go hiking in Mamasa! If you look on a map, Toraja and Mamasa appear to be quite close geographically... but getting from one to the other is a guaranteed adventure, regardless which way you chose to attempt it! Cecilia and I decided to go to Mamasa by bus.



We got there... eventually! Only after a grueling, dusty, bumpy, agonizingly-slow 18-hour bus ride filled at times with sheer terror, white-knuckled grabbing the armrests imagining that at any moment we were going to lose our lives by falling of the side of the mountain into the jungle, never to be heard from again! We arrived in Mamasa in the middle of the night, ready for a real rest!


The next morning we woke up to a little valley town, with streets of MUD! It was still the rainy season in Mamasa, but we wouldn't let a little water deter us... since the town of Mamasa was less-than-inspiring (feeling very run-down, and obviously on a low), we set off to check out the surroundings. We visited traditional villages, where we despaired the loss of traditional building knowledge but enjoyed admiring the still-standing 300-year old rumah adat (traditional homes) while chatting with villagers. We were accompanied along part of our journey by a group of school-boys on their way home, and when we arrived at their village we enjoyed a lovely interaction with a sweet weaver currently reviving an old laborious style of weaving.



Traditional weaving in this area uses a 'body loom'.



The results are gorgeous.



This piece (prior to 'finishing') is 1-inch wide, pure silk woven with two different pattens on each side... a 'lost art'.


So many paths criss-cross the stunning Mamasan countryside one could be content exploring for days! Of course, it would be easy to get lost... no, we weren't lost (!?)... but we're certainly glad we speak the language! After getting back to Mamasa we headed right back out of town again - to the nearby hotsprings; soaking in the steamy darkness was the perfect end to a day of hiking!



The next day we did another small hike in the morning, packed up our gear and headed out on the trail... instead of taking the bus back to Toraja, we decided that we were going to take the 'short-cut' over the mountains. The trail was no longer the 'mountain pass' which we were hoping for... sadly, it has been transformed by a typical Indonesian road-construction project gone wrong; it seemed like there was a mud-slide around every corner!







The views were still spectacular, and much more rugged and untouched than Toraja. We hiked over 60 kilometers, spending the evenings with families along the way. It mostly felt like we were going either up or down... but I won't get into the tortures of long grueling hikes... let's focus on the positive (instead of the aching bones and muscles, the blistered feet that were in so much pain they needed lots of prompting to startup again after a rest...) The scenery and people were worth it!











I would love to give a frame-by-frame play of this incredible trip, but I've already gone well beyond the limit of most of your attention spans... so let me pick one of my favourite moments: bathtime!

On the morning of the second day it was waaaayyy too cold to bathe at the ungodly hour we started out... but we didn't have to face being stinky all day, we got lucky, and just as I was imagining coming across a cool clear little stream and a nice rocky pool... bam! that's what we got! We stripped down almost completely (to what most of us would probably consider a modest bathing suit, but still something I thought I would never consider doing in Indonesia for fear it would bring shame on my children's grandchildren!), grabbed our soap and jumped in for a bath... Of course, it turned out that it was market day, and the quiet little country path was actually quite well-traversed with Indonesians piled high in their trucks pointing and laughing at the foreigners taking a bath! Anyway, it was quite refreshing!

Cakwe



Martin and I held off on breakfast one morning and ending up eating at the Singapura Bakery (Manado). I, in usual fashion, tried something new… Cakwe. The best I can describe it, would be by its resemblance to Yorkshire Pudding. Yummy, but certainly not very healthy! Like most Indonesian food, even this pastry is served with HOT SAUCE!?

I had it again in Jakarta just recently and really wished I could bring some home... (it was only 1000 Rp. in Jakarta; the equivalent of 10 cents)!

Lax of Late...

Sorry folks, I know I've fallen behind terribly in blogging... but I've had a busy month with some travels where I didn't take my laptop. I'll get back on top of it soon hopefully since the Grand Launch for our Education Program has been postponed due to scheduling conflicts of the high-ranking government officials who are supposed to preside over the ceremonies....

In the meantime, I'll post a 'filler'... one of those back-up blogs that I've been saving for a rainy day!

Baggage Carts

One of the many amusing things about flying into Sorong...

Coconuts!


(a beach in the Fam area of Raja Ampat)

Yes, I know, you're all thinking... 'enough with the coconuts, already!'... and no, it's not an obsession... (maybe borderline)! But the palm tree, and coconuts are such a constant and important part of life here in the Pacific that I have to delve a little deeper into its uses and background so you can get an idea.

This section on the four phases of development, I found on a website called Dive Training, by Amy Gulick.

One coconut takes a full year to mature from a flower into a ripe fruit. During this time the coconut passes through four development stages, each with different food properties:

Stage 1. When the coconut is immature, or green, the liquid within the inner shell is sweet and refreshing, and can yield up to a liter of juice. Since it’s sealed in its own hygienic container, the liquid can be used in place of sterile water for medicinal purposes, and is often used to treat dehydration and upset stomachs. During World War II, the liquid of the green coconut was used as a substitute for a medical saline drip, saving the lives of many soldiers stationed in the tropical Pacific.

Stage 2. As the coconut begins to ripen, a thin white layer of “meat” begins to line the inner shell. The “meat” has the consistency of a soft-boiled egg at this stage and can be eaten with a spoon.

Stage 3. The coconut continues to ripen as it remains on the tree. The meaty inner lining of the shell thickens and hardens, and the liquid turns to tasteless water. The fresh meat can be shredded and used in cooking, or dried to produce “copra,” from which coconut oil is extracted.

Stage 4. If a coconut ripens fully on the tree and falls to the ground, it can germinate under the right conditions. As it sprouts, a white spongy sweet ball, called the “apple,” develops within the inner shell, absorbing both the liquid and meat. The apple can be eaten, and is considered a sweet delicacy.

Other food and beverage products derived from the coconut palm make the tree a versatile and vital source of sustenance to tropical cultures. In addition to the juice of the coconut, another beverage comes from a different part of the tree. The flowering stalk, called the inflorescence, can be bound, cut and tapped for its sap. Called sweet toddy, the fresh sap is loaded with nutrients and is the daily drink in many tropical cultures. The sap can also be boiled to make syrup, or fermented into an alcoholic beverage.

A common product used in the cuisine of Southeast Asia — coconut milk — is not the same thing as coconut juice from the inner shell. Coconut milk is made by soaking fresh or dried coconut meat in warm water, filtering the solid material, and allowing the “cream” to rise to the surface. Coconut oil, derived from copra, is also used in cooking.

Another food product comes from the cylindrical stalks of new, unopened leaf shoots at the top of the tree. Called heart of palm, the food is prized for its crunchy texture and refreshing taste. Extracting the heart kills a coconut palm tree, and as a result a heart of palm salad earned the nickname “millionaire’s salad.” Fortunately, there are other species of palm trees that do not die when their hearts are harvested, and these provide heart of palm in commercial quantities.

The Giving Tree
The variety of edible products derived from the coconut palm qualifies the tree for VIP — Very Important Plant — status. But wait; there’s more. As the Indonesians say, “there are as many uses for the coconut palm as there are days of the year.”
The tree is an excellent source of building materials. Posts and beams are made from the tree’s trunk. Thatched roofs, made by placing the long leaves close together, keep water out and allow air to circulate. Strong siding comes from the dried spines of the fronds. In addition to providing materials for structural shelters, the standing trees shelter people and animals from sun and rain. They also act as an important barrier to tropical storms, as they’re flexible and able to withstand high winds.

For clothing and household needs, the husk of the coconut is spun into a saltwater-resistant fiber called “coir,” used to make ropes, nets, mats, brushes and sewing thread. The leaves of the tree can be woven into hats, baskets, fans and brooms. Other household items such as bowls, spoons and buttons are carved from the hard shell of the coconut. Handicrafts and jewelry, made from various parts of the tree, are sold to tourists. All parts of the tree can be composted into fertilizer, and the leaves used as animal feed. The leaves, husks and shells are burned for fuel.
Commercially, charcoal filters made from coconut shells are used in gas masks and cigarettes, and are considered superior to filters made from other sources. The cosmetic and hygiene industries have incorporated coconut oil into makeup, soap, moisture creams, and hair care products.



Throughout history, man has tinkered with nature in an attempt to create the perfect plant. In the case of the coconut palm tree, nature beat him to it.

The Coconut Pearl

If your first reaction is like mine, you'll probably wonder what on earth I'm talking about... a pearl that's made in a coconut? And if you're like me, you're probably thinking someone is trying to take advantage of your gullible nature, and pull your leg... but indeed, it is a real thing! I have seen one with my own eyes, and held it in my hands.

Rumoured to be found in less than one in a million coconuts, the coconut pearl is said to be the rarest botanical gem in the world! And my friend has found one... in fact, he is in negotiations with a buyer to sell it for the equivalent of about 5 000 US dollars. Now this is a heck of a lot of money for an islander from Raja Ampat, but I have since done a little investigation online and found out that he may be getting ripped off... it's worth may be more like 60,000 Euro! (When he gets back to town I'll ask him if I can take a picture of his pearl to add it here.)

The way an oyster pearl is formed is much to same as the manner in which a coconut pearl comes into being - as a blemish. Some foreign object plants itself within the host and becomes the nucleus for the pearl. The host tissue/ organism recognizes this mass as a foreign irritant, and takes protective measures against it; the foreign mass is encased with matter secreted by the organism... which then develops into something valued...

A coconut pearl is spherical, and really does resemble a salt-water pearl with an amazing shine. Apparently, sometimes coconut pearls can be slightly colored, for example with a green, or slightly ecru tinge. Regardless, these gems are truly treasured, and are often set in gold and silver.

Not only are there questions as to whether coconut pearls really exist (some say that all the known occurrences of coconut pearls are fakes), but opinions about their origin (and thus their chemical composition) are varied. A common conclusion is that coconut pearls are a carbonate of calcium; others believe that it is a silicon compound (like an opal). What is certain is that they originate in the 'embryonic region' of the coconut - ie the 'eyes' of the coconut!

Now that I've seen one with my own eyes, I believe that real coconut pearls do exist. Whether they have the magical and medicinal powers they are said to possess, I have yet to receive first-hand proof! Like any truly rare object, they are said to have certain powers as talismans. The coconut pearl is said to expel negative energy and bring luck, and because it 'stimulates the personal magnetism of the person who possess the pearl', the coconut pearl also increases business dealings and guarantees social success!

If you're looking for me, I'll be combing the beaches of Raja Ampat cracking open coconuts...

Coconut Apples!



We had the good luck to take a break while on our hike in Lombok for kelapa muda (fresh young coconut). In fact, I don't think I've ever been on a hike in Indonesia that hasn't involved coconuts at some point!

Anyway, this isn't about drinking the coconut... that experience just reminded me that I have been wanting to share my enthusiasm for another delicacy from that same source; something that I first tried in Ecuador, but have come to appreciate in Indonesia: Coconut Apples. In the local language here it's referred to as Tombong; in spanish, they also call it manzana coco (the apple of the coconut)!


(A big Thank you goes out to hand model Cecilia for her assistance with this shot...)


Doesn't look like much, does it??? but mmm...

It's my favourite fresh, natural tasty treat while on the islands. It has a very unique taste and texture; rich, semi-sweet, watery, like a crisp spongy mass. Somehow it reminds me a little bit of waterchestnuts, but that may just be the 'uniqueness' of it!? The taste is slightly different depending on how old the coconut is when you actually break it open.

Scientifically speaking, the coconut apple is actually the seed's functional cotyledon (the base of the embryo), which has swollen into an absorbing organ that fills the entire cavity of the seed as it digests the endosperm during the germination process. The endosperm tissue is the white 'meat' that we usually think of as 'coconut'. In this way of thinking the brown 'shell' is actually the seed coat, or testa.

As the germination process continues, the coconut apple dissolves and absorbs the nutrient-rich endosperm tissue to supply the developing shoot with sugars and minerals. Eventually, the developing palm becomes self sufficient, as its leaves produce sugars through photosynthesis and its roots absorb minerals from the soil.

The coconut "apple" is rich in sugars and is a sweet delicacy in tropical countries.

So... how to enjoy this treat?

First, you have to find a coconut at the right stage... a coconut that has fallen from the tree naturally, has weathered, and is just starting to sprout... (actually the one in the picture below was a little past-prime; better with just a small shoot)




Then, you peel the husk away from the hard shell of the coconut with a machete...


Split the nut, and enjoy!!!

Lombok



The lesser-known isle just a hop-skip from Bali in a Fokker is called Lombok. It is different from Bali in many, many ways... and in fact, seems to share nothing more than a geographic proximity!

The traditional culture of Lombok is Sasak, a local version of Islam, although with many notable exceptions to the Islam practiced by most Muslim-Indonesians. In the area we visited in the North, there were still people living in traditional Sasak villages, however, many have now moved to the larger centers in pursuit of money and a more modern way of life. We also saw a few motorcycles on the traditional footpaths!



The Sasak take their pinang chewing even more seriously than the people of Papua! There are special boxes and tools devoted to the consumption of this mouth-reddening 'delicacy'!



... however, like the Papuans... they start young!




Our trip... after hopping off the Fokker, we hopped onto some motorbikes (rented at the airport), and after a visit with the very friendly and helpful Renjani Trekking people in Mataram, were on our way to Senaru village in the North. The trip north was interesting; at times lush and green, then stark and arid... A few of the scenes we passed along the way:


The 'head-carrying' picture. I don't know how it is that I don't have a picture of the women carrying woven baskets atop their heads with incredible balance - they were everywhere!



These 'barn' rooves, as I came to refer to them are typical Lombok style.



We had to stop for gas only once along the way, at this 'gas station'!


Along the way, one of our travel-mates Lisa toppled off her motorcycle, and although she wasn’t seriously injured, she certainly wasn’t getting back on. So, we had a motorcycle with no rider in the middle of nowhere, and oviously, an imminent change in plans.

Our plan was to stay at the base of Mount Rinjani (the highest mountain in Indonesia besides Papua). I still hope to come back and climb this giant; when there is more time, and in the right season! As you can see, the views were spectacular!



This was the view from the breakfast table.




We stayed at the base of the mountain for one night anyway since it was certainly too late to start the trek back to find a doctor that could check out Lisa's arm. The next morning, after sending Lisa safely on her way with a Canadian we met who lives in the mountain village, and happened to be going exactly where she needed to go (isn't it wonderful how things just work out like that!?), Cecilia and I went for a nice hike that went from Rice Paddys to Waterfalls through traditional villages on ancient footpaths.

















After an invigorating bath at the waterfall whose waters are said to be therapeutic, we gathered up our things and headed to Senggigi to meet up with Lisa again. We opted for coastal road, which was windy but offered breath-taking views... of course, there were several construction zones along the way that made for an interesting jolting ride with two gals on a small scooter traversing potholes that all-but swallowed us up! Luckily we came out the other end of them all, a true test to my back-road dirt bikin' days! Oh, except that a heavy-equipment operator almost killed us with his swinging backhoe bucket! Just for that extra little adrenaline kick...

Because Lisa used to be the manager of a Sheraton hotel, she hooked us up with a great deal at the Sengiggi Sheraton, and we lived it up in true relaxation style for a few days on the beach! We used her 'injuries' as a good excuse to stay put, but really, this is just what the doctor ordered for all of us! Lots of beach. Lots of reading. Lots of lazing in the pool with the crocodiles. Aaah....






This goodness even included room service - WOW! (No, that is not the Indonesian pembantu with the tray of food! haha, sorry, Ceci!)

... and this was just the beginning...

Well, after getting off the boat at 5 am and doing a speed re-pack, I headed directly to the Sorong airport to begin my journey to Bali to meet up with friends, and start off on our tour around Lombok.

After several flight delays and cancellations, including an unplanned over-night in Makassar, I finally arrived in Bali. Because of my delayed arrival, we spent a lovely day touring around on rented motorcycles, the afternoon shopping at the Ubud market, and the evening at one of the traditional dance performances at a temple.

This was the first time our friend Cynthia had been to a cultural performance in Bali (a must-see for any visitor to Bali)... she chose the dance by the ticket-seller, and her instincts were right on... we saw several dances that are not the most famous in Bali, but very special, and certainly entertaining.



One new dance that I had never seen before was the 'Cendrawasih' (Bird of Paradise) dance, which I found a little confusing, since the Bird of Paradise is endemic to Papua, not Bali... but their movements were right on, and so closely approximated the mating dance of these birds, that I feel sure they have seen the original actors (ie. the birds themselves) perform it!






The other treat was the "Rabbit Dance", performed by young girls between the ages of 5-9... outstanding!




The next morning we all headed to the airport -- Lisa, Cecilia and I off to Lombok, while Sigit and Cynthia were headed for Flores... We shared a much-needed coffee (can you believe they have Starbucks in Indonesia!?), and set off!




(Cynthia, the coffee connoisseur)

Flying a Fokker

On an already shortened holiday, when given the choice:

20 minutes on a Fokker
OR
20 hours of bike, bus, ferry, mini-bus, and who knows what other obstacles

It seems like a no-brainer... and to tell you the honest truth, had I known it was a fokker, I would've made the snap decision even faster, just with the knowledge that then I could say "I flew a Fokker".





I have never been on such a short plane ride in my life! Anyway, that's how we got from Denpasar, Bali to Mataram, Lombok... caught our first glimpse of Mount Rinjani, and from there, started our Lombok adventure (which turned out to be somewhat of a mis-adventure - stay tuned)!





Read the fine print. Note the incongruency??? The worst thing they could hope to do is confuse people in an emergency situation; so which is it??? Is the life vest under my seat, or is it the seat itself!? No, this was not an April Fool's joke. Aaahhh... Indonesian air-carriers never cease to impress!

Does it not look like this woman is in the process of slicing up the brains of a large animal???


On our first day in Warsambin, as we were walking over to meet with the head of the district and the village head in order to coordinate/socialize the Kalabia program to them, we passed by a woman who was doing a funny wiggling dance while slicing up something that, upon first glance, looked to me to be brains! I asked. In fact, it was a 'sarang semut' (ants' nest), and the wiggly dance was the reaction to the ants, whose bit is like fire! Apparently the local villagers cut these nests from the trees, slice them up (and remove the ants, of course) and use them for medicinal purposes. The slices can be steeped in hot water and made into a healing tea, or eaten! According to the local shaman it's good for all manner of ailment, including cancer, asthma, intestinal issues, heart problems, or just as a general whole-body detoxifying cleanse, which probably means it's has anti-oxidant properties... but of course, no formal scientific testing has been done to investigate the medicinal properties as of yet!

I'll be having ants' nest tea before bed this eve!

Kali Biru
The Blue River

On our way home from Warsambin, we were invited to take the opportunity to stop by a local 'sacred site' called Kali Biru. The convergence of two rivers of differing temperatures forms a unique and refreshing area where the people of Warsambin not only go to hold various ceremonies, but also for recreation.

The two rivers, one whose source is icy cold, the other, tepid, come together rather abruptly, causing a huge increase in the flow speed of the river. To stand in the river exactly at the point of their convergence creates a very odd sensation as one second freezing water is rushing by you causing you to feel the cold deep in your bones, the next second, you are flooded with warmth. We enjoyed bathing in the crystal clear blue river while gazing up at the beautiful scenery of luscious green rainforest with all manner of avian life flocking around us (including white cockatoos, blue and green and red parrots, and other, less-conspicuous varieties).

Lead by a friend from the local village, we also tried a local scrub treatment, "Gosok"; using river stones to exfoliate while seated along the riverbank. A treat for me, especially after tromping around in the muddy mangroves with the kids earlier that day!