Blue Marlin in the Deep Blue!

Well, the only diving I did on this trip to Raja Ampat was to attempt a search and recovery mission for our anchor.  (Which, in case you didn't have the patience or interest to read my previous post, was unsuccessful).  Basically the only thing I saw for the entire 4 days/9 dives underwater was dull sand bottom and deep blue depth.... PLUS...

The second day, only seconds into our decent to the 40-meter depths from which we could see the sea floor (at 50+ meters), a blue Marlin swam within meters of me!  I was in awe and totally intimidated by its size, the very prominent potentially-impaling sword at its beak, and the sheer muscle apparent in its bodily movements... (I can't really find the right word to describe the way it moved, but it was almost like it wagged itself along (in a much more fluid graceful motion than the word wagging seems to encompass for me).)

Unfortunately, I wasn't carrying a camera, since the only thing I expected to see was sand and blue, and *hopefully* an anchor or anchorline.  ;)  But I did manage to gather the presence of mind to get a squawk out in time that my dive mates had a fleeting look as well and can corroborate my story ;)  Now, if it had looked more like this (I borrowed a few pics from SeaPics and SuperStock), perhaps my heart wouldn't have skipped quite so many beats...

Transmigration Woes

A related story, both to the Wasior disaster I wrote about yesterday, and also to the general degradation and destruction of  the natural environment:  transmigration.

The Indonesian government has been employing transmigration plans to decrease pressure on highly-populated areas of Indonesia (such as Java and Bali)  by spreading people around the archipelago, specifically targeting areas like Papua.  There are many theories as to all the reasons for this… including cultural and religious dilution, increasing the speed of development (read resource exploitation - there is actually a new government mandate for the ‘increased speed of development of papua’!?).  Anyway, I don’t want to debate the reasons here, but instead speak a little bit about the effects of transmigration, aside from religious, cultural and social issues, but focussing specifically on the environment.

Firstly, we have the blatent, first-hand destruction of natural systems and conversion of land to clear land for the newcomers.  Some have suggested that these transmigration plans are no more than fronts for logging operations which would otherwise be unpalatable.  Regardless, the forest destruction and fragmentation is unavoidable... and worse, as the manner of undertaking these projects in these areas is uncontrolled (poor, if not non-existent, drainage systems, minimal impact plans, buffer zones and watercourse deference), the destruction of the watershed, and thus also the coastal ecosystems, inevitably follows.

Secondly, the inherent pressures associated with the additional populations on the natural environment.  This is another no-brainer:  more mouths mean a greater need for food, thus more fishing pressure and more land conversion for agriculture... all with the same effects as above (especially because of the lack of government control on these processes)!  This is compacted of course, by the already-increased fishing pressures that exist in Raja Ampat, by foreign fishers coming from areas whose oceans have already been depleted of fish stocks sufficient to sustain the populations in their own areas.

Third, the constant and detrimental decrease in general stewardship of (caring about/for) the environment, as a result of a new population with no direct feeling of responsibility or ownership over the local natural environment.  Especially in the Indonesian cultural context, where, regardless of where you live, or even where you were born, your ‘home’ is associated with your tribe of origin.  Although the people native to Raja Ampat currently live extremely closely in an inter-dependence with nature (it would be complete harmony, if not for the outside influences), it can be predicted that the transmigrants will not do so, and will dedicate themselves to other forms of business.  So generationally, and especially with population dilution that will result due to intermarriages inevitable with the new populations, the degree of 'caring for the environment' will decline steadily, resulting in a population with no direct link to the environment with which they are surrounded.

Is this starting to seem like a familiar story?  Oh, I forgot to mention that this is all occurring with little to no consultation with the peoples who have inhabited these lands and waters since the beginning?

Perhaps I have become too pessimistic... or perhaps it takes this long to have your eyes opened... and once they're opened, it's like someone stuck toothpicks between your lids and now you can't stop seeing it all over the place!?

Wasior Disaster

There should be no doubt about the cause of this disaster.  It is not a 'natural disaster', it can't be attributed to 'climate change'... it could have been avoided.

Unfortunately Indonesia doesn't think ahead.  The governments don't heed glaringly obvious warnings, and the dollar signs in their eyes make the environment fall by the way-side, even when it means the welfare of the people they are charged to serve and protect is put at risk.  They just cut the trees, rape the forests, build completely ridiculous road systems and destabilize watersheds so that a simple heavy rain ends in hundreds of lives lost, thousands displaced, and a city in ruin.

I was supposed to be arriving in Wasior this month as part of the Kalabia education trip to Cenderawasih Bay.  I was just discussing the situation in the Bay with some colleagues who had recently returned from a survey trip there (they were doing genetic studies on marine species, surveying for new previously-undiscovered species, and identifying potential areas for marine tourism development, but they couldn't help but see the destruction of the marine environment that was going on as a result of activities on the land surrounding their study sites)!  I was enquiring about conservation issues that we should focus our education program for the area on.  They had just finished telling me that the story there, even though Cenderawasih Bay is a National Park, is no different from the situation all over the rest of Papua, and indeed, most of the lesser-inhabited areas of Indonesia... uncontrolled, poorly-planned development, combined with rampant illegal exploitation of natural resources (illegal logging, mining and land-conversion)... then the breaking news story of a disastrous flood and mudslides burying the main town in the Bay hit the news.

We postponed our trip, as it is an inappropriate time to visit while the town and regency is dealing with a disaster of this size... Current counts (as of yesterday, 2010/10/10) have 144 dead, but another 161 missing and feared dead, over 1000 injured, and the entire town's population of over 5000 displaced (most evacuated to nearby cities due to lack of access to clean water and fear of additional flooding if rains continue).  It's a small town, but it is the capital of the main regency in Cenderawasih Bay, Wondama.

As conservationists, and educators, we definitely want to capitalize on the moment to turn it into a learning experience... be sure that the message gets through:  destruction of the natural environment holds nothing but disaster.  But we don't want to be insensitive, so we are postponing until the trauma experienced by the people there settles, they can get their homes, and their lives, back.

Of course, the 'aid' effort is committing all kinds of serious errors as well - like 'handing over 2 billion Rp in cash' to aid the recovery of the disaster... yeah, how much of that money do you think will actually get to the people who need it!?!

Anyway, there is a positive light in this story... there are a few local aid organizations from other areas in Papua who are being driven by their hearts and not their wallets to help with the recovery.  A small group of doctors and nurses called MerC have arrived to tend to the wounded, and several others are making collections of clothing, etc, for evacuated survivors.

The problem of course, is that the people responsible for this disaster aren't affected at all.  They are so far away from the sites that they are affecting...  cozy in their posh Jakarta homes, sitting on their padded pockets, watching it all on the latest flatscreen high-def television.

The climate of corruption is so thick in Indonesia it permeates every level.  There exists in Indonesia the equivalent of what we call an Environmental Impact Study (it's called an AMDAL), but it can be bought... and bought for peanuts when comparing the potential income from a large gold mine, or a large harvest of hardwood.

Tumpek Landep - the Day to Praise the Metal Gods

So after posting the previous blog about the "Metal Gods" in Bali, I opened my weekly Bali Update Newsletter to see that the holy day is called "Tumpek Landep".  It is celebrated every 210 days (according to the Balinese Calendar), and indeed it is to pay homage to all things metal, including cars, motorcycles and tools of trade.  You can read the story on the occasion here... a very well-informed source for all sorts of news and information about Bali.

The God of Metal Machines

Today is the day of the God of all things metal that aid us in our lives…  How do I know that?  Well, no, I haven't yet learned to read the Balinese Hindu Calendar (as only very few elite Balinese holy men are ever taught to do)...  Today, all the cars, motorcycles, escalators, elevators, and other metallic equipment that help humans in every-day life are decorated with offerings to the special God who presides over such things.

I love that in Bali there is a day dedicated to the worship of everything and anything… the Balinese have all their bases covered.  There are more Gods in Balinese Hindu that I think exist in any other religion.  Every day is another special 'day' in Bali

This reminds me of the book "The God of Small Things" - I should read it again, I remember really enjoying it...

Light up my ... Ears?

Ear Candling (or Thermal-Auricular Therapy, because everything has to have a proper, seemingly scientific name) seems to be a new 'trend' in Indonesia these past few months.  It is an alternative treatment whose origin is in dispute, but seems to go back thousands of years in several different societies.

I tried it at home once years ago in an attempt to decrease my deafness... hey, who know, right!?  I tend to believe that for the most part our bodies take care of themselves, and we generally don't need to (nor should) interfere.  A little ear wax is probably a good thing for the proper functioning of our ears (otherwise, somehow I doubt it would exist)... but I also don't think the amount of pollution in the air is natural, and my hearing, let's face it, is not getting any better.

Anyway, I have tried ear candling a few times now in Indonesia, with similar results to Canada... you can't believe how much wax comes out of your ears (even as a 'diciplined ear cleaner' - which I am, again in an attempt to prevent wax build-up and minimize its impact on my already-sketchy hearing!).  Whether it has any effect on hearing is debatable.  I do feel like it clears the sinuses in general, and 'unplugs' me (but I've never had any real issues).  Some people claim that it cures infections, and does all kinds of other wonders, and Martin told me the divers in Galapagos use a similar method to remove 'air' and marine critter from their ears (he once had a miniature crab living in his ear for a day, and this is how they removed it)!  Basically, if you want to know what it'll do for you, just try it for yourself!

Check out the process and its result (for those of you weak-in-the-knees about this sort of stuff, you might just want to scroll down and read the next section without looking at the pics):

The beeswax (or paraffin) candle burns in each ear for about 5 minutes, and usually there's a slight warm tingling sensation, accompanied by some hisses and crackles and pops as the candle does what it does (if it does anything!?)... then... ta-da!

Supposedly the dark yellow/orange is ear wax (although I think some of it must be from the candle itself!?), and the whitish residue is sinus debris.  Obviously, there are some dangers to this 'remedy' as well (see this CBC story), but as long as it is done by a professional, and in moderation it should be fine.

Please remain calm...

Yes, there is a LIVE vest under your seat...

... But don't let it out except in case of emergency... they're sensitive creatures, you see, and don't like to be disturbed!

Strange and Unidentified things that Live in the Sea

Anyone have any idea what this is?

It's like some strange mutation of a jellyfish....  Hundreds of them were brought in by a tide when we were docked at a village in Fam area of Raja Ampat.  They were over a meter long, transparent with iridescent electric lights around the border.


There is another mystery that I am trying to figure out as well... twice now on night dives around Waigeo I have seen the strangest form of bioluminescence...  Not just the usual small, non-descript shaped flecks of light that your average photoplankton produce, nor the glow from the shiny eyes of the flashlight fish.... but something that looks like the 'trailers' you get when you wave a glow stick around in the pitch dark...  I think it's actually some kind of worm that leaves a false trail or something... hmmm... any thoughts or ideas???

Black Spiny Sea Urchins

You may remember reading about my previous run-in with these nasty little (poisonous) creatures...

Well, a crew member of ours has a trick to be able to touch these poisonous points without getting infected...  and he promptly demonstrated his method to us.

The key, he said, is right before scooping one up off the sea floor, is cupping both hands around his nether regions!?  Maybe his privates' poisonousness rival that of the urchins!?!

Icarus

A solar-powered plane... amazing.





















Should be pretty quiet, too!?  Just hope it doesn't fly TOO close to the sun!

Sea Spaghetti

These spaghetti worms are some of the most common marine worms found on tropical reefs in Raja Ampat.  Their super-long while spaghetti-like tentacles reach out from their tube in search of food.  I think, just like the song, they are looking for the meatball (On top of spaghetti, all covered with cheese, I lost my poor meatball, when somebody sneezed.... it rolled off the table, and onto the floor, and then my poor meatball, rolled right out the door!).

Their arms can reach for over a meter, but if you touch or brush them, they immediately retract their tentacles into the safe haven of their tubes.

I was frauded!?

I didn't realize until too late, however, due to a combination of factors (away in the field, traveling, hard to identify item descriptions on my bill from indonesia in general).  So I paid for some jackass hacker to gamble online with my credit card!?!

The shock and silence when the Visa customer service agent on the phone told me what the charge was that I was unable to identify on my visa statement was definitely enough to convince him that I hadn't used my card for that activity... But WTF!?!

I guess I was lucky it was only once, since I didn't catch it for several months... it could have been much much worse!  But I'm still miffed I got stuck with the bill.  I guess I will be more diligent in checking my bills AND following-up with any charges that I don't recognize!

A Week in Wayag!

My favourite Papuan Song has a great line which refers to the land of Papua being full of mystery.  This week in Wayag has proved that beyond a doubt!

I was here for several days of meetings, and then to hold a training for Kalabia Conservation Educators, but before and after heavy, yet productive days, we took advantage of the amazing backdrop and explored the area.

We snorkeled in a Secret Bay...

the entrance to 'Secret Bay'

'Secret Bay' - over

The floor of Secret Bay - covered with a floral coral garden

Climbed to the top of two different karst mountains... (with two different groups!)

Bright clear morning overlooking the Wayag karst peaks reflected in a mirror-like sea!

Kalabia training group at Wayag

This is not staged - it is really 'climbing' to get to the peak!

Dove amongst the highest marine biodiversity on the planet...

Diving Wayag's 'Figure-8 Rock'

Bubbles trapped under a leather coral

Turnicate up-close

Explored a hidden salt-water lake full of stingless jellyfish...

Not to mention endless snorkeling on the considerable house reef right at the Wayag Field Station, which is home to several large black-tip reef sharks (and a baby), curious bat-fish, giant clams, massive mantis shrimp, mating octopusses and many many other species taking shelter in the special safety this entirely protected area provides.

Wayag is incredible!

Bird's-eye view - can you find the snorkelers?  

Wayag also gave me the opportunity to get back to a tent again!

I have been missing living in a tent since I haven’t been spending time in the forests of Canada… but this week also gave me the opportunity to tent-it again!  What a treat!  Although the view from my front door is slightly different that the view I’m used to from a tent, I can’t say that’s been a problem (as you can see below)!

Painless Encounter with Alien Beauty!

There is this Bay in Raja Ampat that I have wanted to visit for YEARS - I guess you could say it's right up there on my 'bucket list'!  It's been there ever since I first heard about this spot, which, when the light and conditions are absolutely right, you can enjoy swimming with thousands of jellies!  I was even there once, too, with the right local guy to find us the spot, but he said it wasn't really the right season at the time, so we only saw one or two...  so I can't cross this place off my list just yet!

BUT....  During our annual Bird's Head Seascape meeting, which was held at our Wayag field station this year, there were a few opportunities to explore this amazing area...

And it turns out, hidden amongst these stunning karst mountains, there is a saltwater jellyfish lake RIGHT HERE!!!  There were at least two species of jellyfish in the lake, one virtually carpeting the entire floor of the lake, and the other, much larger, much more intimidating one free-swimming around the slightly deeper areas.

It was such a peaceful, calm place -- hidden away from the roaring sea, it was like being in a dream.  No coral tinkling, only my own heartbeat in sync with the pulsating jellyfish as I floated through the algae-thick green waters.

(Sorry, the video is not loading on the bandwidth from the field station... maybe once i'm in town again...)

In fact, an aerial survey of Wayag has shown there are actually 12 saltwater lakes here - I wonder what mysteries the other ones hold!?!

The only place in the world I had heard about where you could swim with thousands of stingless jellyfish is a land-locked lake in Palau...

Even though Palau is geographically the closest place to Raja Ampat (closer than most of the rest of Indonesia, in fact!), it is virtually impossible to get there from here!  There are absolutely no direct connections.  Although this is probably the most famous place on earth to experience the stingless jellies, I also just found out about another place right here in Indonesia called Kakaban Lake, in East Kalimantan!  Turns out it is actually part of an area in which CI works - hmmm.....

The Jellyfish lake in Palau is also a very different situation from the bay in Raja Ampat - it is a land-locked lake, which used to be part of the sea, but which has been cut off from the sea, probably in a geological 'lifting'.  It is still connected to the sea only by small fizures in the porous limestone walls surrounding it.  The jellyfish were trapped in the lake, and over time in their predator-free safe haven, have evolved into 'stingless' jellyfish.  Their stinging cells (or cnidocytes/nematocycts) have all but disappeared, making it possible, and some might say pleasureful, to swim amongst them.

This makes them unique from the stinging cousins in the open ocean, some species of which can cause serious pain and even death to humans!

Manokwari mind-meld

View Larger Map

Having just returned from a very productive, intense, week-long training session on MPA Management Planning (part of our Bird's Head Seascape Capacity-Building Training Program), I have a bit of brain drain... so I guess this post should be called Manokwari Mind MELT... 

In fact, this is just to try out embedding a Google Map into my blog.  Manokwari is "A" (I haven't figured out how to change the marker yet)... you can see Sorong also (the gateway city to Raja Ampat).  In fact, I was trying to embed a google tour, which would've flown you from Canada (Ontario) to Manokwari, so you could get an idea of how far away we are, but it's only producing errors so far!

Catching on?

Yes, everything and anything can be carried on a motorcycle... they are not just the asian family mini-van anymore, but also the moving van...

Yay, Martin - you're catching on!

Fast Food

And by fast I mean, often seen speeding along the road at 50kmph!

This is the 'fried things vendor', and there are many more like him, displaying their wares on the backs of their bikes!

SeaWeed - Micro Mysteries

I don't really understand why this word holds such negative connotations for us as kids - I guess at that stage, 'icky, slimy green stuff' is easier to understand about seaweed than all the variety of impressive uses in food (directly in soups, salads and sushi, or extracts in things like ice cream, dressings and jellies), medicines (for everything from cancer to impotence), and cosmetics (lotions, shampoos, toothpaste and lipstick).  Of course, there are over 60 species of red, brown, and green seaweeds, which actually aren't 'weeds' at all, nor plants for that matter.  Seaweed is actually ALGAE!

Anyway, I have come to appreciate another aspect of one particular species of seaweed over the course of my growing love affair with the ocean...  Floating Sargassum Seaweed mats comprise a complex mini-ecosystem of their own - an entire miniature world within a square meter!  An encounter with this stuff in the wild open ocean, on the fringes of the reefs, can be a real eye-opener.  I can spend ages searching each inch of any given floating mass for all kinds of interesting critters - juvenile fish, shrimp, crabs, clams, flatworms, hydroids, seahorses, etc!  See if you can find some in these photos:

The sargassum frogfish, of course, being the ultimate find... Although I have never encountered one myself, I am including a few pictures here so you can see how well-camouflaged they are to their homes in the Sargassum seaweed!