Waiwo
(a few of the critters that live there)

To my delight, when the CI Field Station was built, the critters in the jungle didn't head for higher ground... instead, they just adopted Waiwo as part of their home.

This little skink landed in the laundry (yes, Waiwo even has a washing machine!!!)... he must've been going for a swim in the water tank!? I'd seen him around previously in his dull brown shade, but I guess his trip through the water hose gave him a bit of a fright... he turned electric blue! I have since learned his name is Ronald.



Spiders are not an uncommon sight... how many do you spot in this pic?



This guy is probably the king of all grasshoppers...



...but this one takes the cake for kookiest (and best camouflaged - he is identical to a leaf from the side!)...



Then there are a variety of bugs of all shapes, sizes, colours and descriptions...



There are also two Soa-soa (monitor lizards) that play in the compost heap in the early mornings... however, they have remained largely elusive whenever I have my camera handy!



Getting a picture of the birds is equally challenging!

Waiwo
CI Field Station, Raja Ampat

CI couldn't have chosen a better site for their first field station in Raja Ampat. A lovely little white-sand beach with mangroves...



...and it's own small healthy coral reef right out front.




The dock is nice for photos, although, like every other dock I've ever seen in Indonesia, it's completely ridiculous... WAAAAY too high, even at the highest of high tides!



The most wonderful place to read a good book is out there under the shade hut, with the ocean breeze to keep you cool!



Waiwo is actually a full-service facility! There are:

A Mess and several cabins



with 'rustic rooms'



kitchen and dining area (also used for internet picnics!)



scuba equipment



several offices (and Satellite internet connection)




as well as a conference/meeting room



and LOTS of coconuts!



aaaahhhh....

My MUSLIM Bathing suit

The Manado/Bunaken area is not Bali, most people wear shorts and a t-shirt to swim, they don't use a bathing suit, and they CERTAINLY don't wear bikinis! Only foreign women wear bikinis, and, well, that's because they're loose floozies (at least this is the impression all the Hollywood movies - the only experience of foreigners for most Indonesians - have given them). So, because I'm working with children, and want to respect the local culture (and maybe make them change their mind about stereo-typing all foreign women as sluts; hey, I'm no floozy!), and also because I want to respect the sun's power and capability of causing skin cancer (!), I decided to look for more modest and appropriate swim wear. I had been wearing shorts over my swim suit, but this still received many stares (probably they were just thinking, man that's a lotta WHITE!), and even though I was applying superfluous amounts of sunscreen, I was still winding up sun-burnt.

My search for a 'lycra' or 'rashguard' to wear with my shorts came up empty - no surf gear in Manado! But the search lead me to one of the most amusing encounters I've had so far in Indonesia.

I was at the Matahari, one of the 'modern' department stores in Manado, looking for a lycra. When I spotted a whole section of what I would call 'skin-suits', only not the price you would normally pay at a dive shop! There were ones with full sleeves or short sleeves, full legs or shorts (a few even came with caps!), in all variety of colours and patterns. I figured right away these were for the muslim population, but it suited my purpose just fine! I noticed the stares when I started looking through the rack in earnest. (But stares are normal, so I connected it with the fact that I 'shine' here (as Martin says), not with the fact that I was looking at muslim bathing suits).



When I found one that I liked (obviously NOT the one in the above picture) and asked the sales women if I might try it on, she looked at me in complete disbelief and the following conversation went something like this:

Sales Woman: "You can't buy that."

Me: (stunned silence... running through the possible reasons why not and coming up with nothing viable (maybe it's the last one and they need it for display?)) "... uuuh, why not?"

Sales Woman: "Well, it's for MUSLIMS."

Me: "Yeah, I know, but I like it and I'd like to buy it. Would you mind if I tried it on?" (I knew she'd never believe me if I just simply said I was Muslim, although it probably would have stopped her in her tracks!!!)

Sales Woman: "But it's a MUSLIM bathing suit!"

Me: "I know. But it's just exactly what I'm looking for, it will protect me from the sun, and I'd like to try it on, please." (I thought I might have her here, since all Indonesians hide from the sun in order stay as white (ie. beautiful) as possible.)

Sales Woman: (somewhat haughtily, while indicating where the fitting rooms were) "Well, if you think so."

Me: "Yes, thank you."

(I tried it on, it fit)

Me: (moving up to the cash register with the suit, where there was now a group of saleswomen waiting) "Perfect. Just this, thanks."

Sales Woman: "You're sure?"

Me: "Yes, Thank you very much. Have a great day!"

Sales Woman: (still in disbelief, I think) "Shalom"

Me: (with a little giggle) "Take care."

PINANG - Part Two
(Beetlenut)

The first time I wrote a blog about Beetlenut I hadn't actually tried it myself... I had just been fascinated by the brilliant red mouths smiling at me around Raja Ampat, and by the trails of bright red sputum lining the sidewalks of Sorong.

This time, I am writing from a new perspective! I have tried chewing pinang several times now, and although I can't say I actually like the sensation, it's certainly unique.

Pinang, or beetlenut, might be the Papuan equivalent to chewing tobacco, but natural and untreated. Betelnut is actually the fruit of a type of palm tree (betel palm); a reddish-brown 'nut' encased in a green husk. Papuans rip off the outer husk with their teeth to get to the inner-goodness... then pop the middle part into the mouth (with a little bit of the fibrous husk as well) and chew. The initial effect is instantaneous, the salivary glands are immediately stimulated, and you spurt saliva. But wait, it's not over yet... in fact, it's only just begun! The beetelnut itself doesn't create that lusty red colour!



The next step is to take a small stick of 'siri' (I have no idea what this is called in English... it's a small 'fruit' that grows on vines, and adds its very distinctive smell to the experience), dip it in lime (calcium oxide), and position it in the middle of the mass that the betelnut has now become... continue chewing the pulp until red (for me, both my face AND my mouth)! Only when all three of these ingredients are present in the correct proportions can you achieve that perfect colour/texture combination which inevitably turns the mouth and teeth bright orange!



This is a common practise throughout Papua, from the young (I've seen kids as young as 5 years old chewing the stuff!) to the very old! There isn't anything much funnier than the men of a village here looking like they're wearing lipstick!

Pinang is sold in all the markets here, usually already packaged with siri and lime.

I've read that betelnut is a mildly euphoric stimulant (due to the presence of alkaloids)... and folks here say it's habit-forming. Although the majority of times I've tried it, I've felt nothing of this natural high except my face got red, the most recent time, I actually got quite dizzy, although only briefly. (Friends said it was because that particular pinang was 'wild' as opposed to being 'cultivated'!)

Pinang is also said to have the added bonus of strengthening teeth... 'Nature's toothbrush' (most people here don't actually use a toothbrush and paste). It's true that most people who chew pinang still have all their teeth, and there is a very low incidence of dental problems (of course, no one goes to the dentist to actually check!)... These bonuses, though, are somewhat outweighed by the fact that chewing betelnut has recently been linked to oral cancers. AND... every elder I see chewing it has a mouthful of awfully stained teeth and gums that look like they belong on a monster in a horror movie!

Airline Adventures

Our most recent trip on an Indonesian airline was the most eventfully and unforgettable yet…

It’s Idul Fitri, the end of the fasting month, which, in a country of 80% Muslim population, mean folks are all “pulang kampung” (home for the holidays)… so flights are booked solid. Two weeks ago, when we found out we were going to have a holiday, and we booked our tickets, we were on the waiting list!

We were flying with Wings Air (which is actually the same things as Lion Air), on a Dash-8 (300), a little twin prop airplane which seats about 30 people…. Or at least, that’s the NUMBER of SEATS on board… This time, it was actually seating several more than the capacity – with 3 people sitting in 2 seats in several places around the plane! When I mentioned this seeming discrepancy, the flight director tried to brush me off saying, no, no, it’s all ok. When I was a little more adamant about this (illegal) overloading, he still maintained that all was ok, and proceeded to spare up another seat by asking another person to triple up. By this time there were 5 extra passengers (which of course means all their luggage, and at holiday times, this is usually more than average… and on a plane of this size, amounts to a significant increase! Like 30%!)

To my real surprise, NO ONE else on the plane seemed to have any problem with this, or at least no one was making any noise… even the people who were being asked to triple up didn’t mind being shuffled and uncomforted!

Anyway, that was TOO much! ESPECIALLY given the safety track record of airlines in Indonesia… Martin, completely stressed, grabbed his bag and deplaned, while I, for the 5th time, had a word with the crew. This time a little louder, and a little more forcefully. I tried to explain to them there were reasons for the load limits imposed on airplanes, and although they are well within safety limits, they have no authority to decide to disobey them, and that this was completely UNSAFE, etc, etc… That they have no right to take the lives of all these passengers into their own hands… and did they not value their own lives? And why did they think Indonesian airlines were in such a predicament anyway!?

When it seemed like nothing was getting through I finally took a more adamant stand, saying their plane wasn’t flying with me on it if it was overloaded, and if I wasn’t on board when it took off they would have other problems.

I just stood on the pulldown stairway/gangplank until they offloaded the extra passengers (and when these groaned and gave me the evil eye, I just asked them if it wasn’t better to be alive). By this time Martin was almost back at the terminal and they had to go retrieve him, which they did, and we settled into our seats, quite disgruntled. I apologized (for the delay… although, of course, we were already 1.5 hours late anyway, normal in Indo… so the 5-10 mins I caused was nothing!)

Once we were mid-flight, I noticed something funny in the cockpit – they were being awfully careful about the curtain closed between the cabin and the washroom/galley/cockpit; they didn’t even leave it open during take-off and landing, which breaks some other regulation, I’m sure! In the end, it turned out they had stashed one of the extra passengers between the 2 pilots! (I later found out she paid an additional 2 million rupiah on top of the regular ticket price!!!)

THEN, when we got off in Manado, the 4 other extra passengers deplaned – from the BAGGAGE compartment!!!

You’re F’ING KIDDING ME! So, although we were lucky and arrived whole, I will not be letting this lie!!!

Recently (within the last 2-4 months), there were huge investigations in to the safety and security of Indo Airlines – Three carries were subjected to heavy fines and most their flights grounded until they were able to comply with a series of discrepancies between their status quo and the regulations. This one, WINGS AIR, was one of the ones that had a few mechanical issues with their fleet… great! Just imagine!

So, when I went to report the ‘incident’ to the Lion/Wings Office, one of the kids working there seemed to think this was funny, which of course, got me more riled up! I told them that I wanted to make a formal complaint and report… they said in order to make a report, they would call Sorong, the origin of the flight, to check if what I was saying was true (!?!) Yeah, what reason do I have to lie!?!?!? It’s really likely that they’re going to admit to having broken about a dozen rules, putting passengers’ safety at risk! I told them if they couldn’t believe me, that there were 30 (in fact 35!) other passengers that were witness to same, and would be able to confirm! And if they really wanted the truth, they’d have more success by checking the pockets of their employees in Sorong – for the extra millions they were extorting from the additional passengers, to break the rules!

I got nowhere with them, and I realized that they weren’t the right people to complain to anyway… I’m in the process of drafting a letter to the high commission of airline safety in Indonesia, and at the suggestion of my dad, will be copying it to IATA (the International Air Transport Association), and maybe even the Aviation Safety Foundation of Australasia. Let’s just see if that gets their attention; maybe now they’ll take my complaint a little more seriously. Do they think a couple hundred dollars extra is enough cause to risk a whole planeful of people’s families grief at the major holiday of the year if their little plan backfired!? Gee, they really value their customers!

Airplane Food in Indonesia

You can't expect much from budget carriers in Indonesia in the way of a mid-flight meal or snack. Most don't serve anything but a plastic cup of water. There was a surprise for us on our last flight from Bali to Makassar - a 'boxed snack'. What the box contained was even more of a surprise!



A boiled egg, and a fish-filled roll.

We're flying back to Manado on Wednesday, and then our holidays begin on Friday... but I bet there is nothing more to look forward to on the flights!

Ayam Lalapan di Sumber Urip
(Fried Chicken at the "Source of Life")


This is one of our favourite places for dinner, a little warung not too far from our place in Sorong. Warungs are semi-permanent street vendors that usually start to appear late afternoon or early evening for the dinner crowd. The structures are usually very simple: a metal-frame, tarp roof (often with numerous holes), and cloth banner 'walls' (which double as advertising space and menu). Offerings are usually fairly standard... you can see the Sumber Urip menu from the 'writing on the wall'!

Nasi Goreng (Fried Rice)
Nasi Ayam (Chicken Rice)
Nasi Ikan (Fish Rice)
Tahu Tek (Tofu with sauce)
Soto (Soup)
Mie Kuah (Boiled Noodles)
Mie Goreng (Fried Noodles)
Ayam Goreng Lalapan (Fried Chicken with Salad) - their specialty!

Warungs are one of the cheapest options for quick meals (other than the kaki-limas (vendor carts that remain in motion)). You usually find warungs in groupings, like this one near our house (below). Nicely-focussed picture, Ange... in case you can't tell, that's Martin standing by the motorcycles!



At the "Source of Life" warung, we've actually evolved an interesting relationship with the owners, a sweet javenese couple from Surabaya. They love having 'Bules' as regular customers... and it probably isn't bad for business either. I swear people walking by stop to eat there just so they can stare at the Bule!



This is what last nights dinner looked like:


Martin had Nasi Goreng (Fried Rice).



And I had Ayam Goreng Lalapan... Fried chicken, with steamed rice, super-spicy sambal (hot sauce), and a 'salad'. The salad consists of fresh basil, string beans, cucumbers and cabbage and is actually the only fresh veggies I've ever found available for meals! The chicken is scrumptious... I think Indonesia is the first time I've ever actually tried fried chicken!? I've had it BBQ'd, baked, shake'n'baked, broiled, and roasted... but I can't remember ever having it friend! It's a Suthen thang I guess?

Day-tripping to the Island of Doom

Last Sunday, once the monotony of going from home to office to home, and back again, with no break or change of scenery, even on weekends (because Sorong is a dive of a city; hot, sticky, dirty, uugh), I finally convinced Martin that we had to break the routine or I was going to go insane!

What better, uplifting destination that the Isle of Doom!? (Actually pronounced, and starting to be spelled, DUM) Their motto, as you can see in the sign below, is, Doom Kota Kami (Our City of Doom): Kecil, Aman, Menarik, Indah (Small, Safe, Interesting, Beautiful). In contrast to the ominous name, I found their claims to be true.



Pulau Doom is about a 10 minute, 20 cent, water taxi ride from Sorong.



It's a small, round little island that people say was the original 'Sorong'. As such, it has the complete set of social structures and facilities -- schools, government offices, church, mosque and market. Sorong was relocated to the mainland (I still say that even though they're all islands!) once the little island was all but overflowing; it is much quieter and greener than Sorong, as so won my immediate approval.



There are no cars, and few motorcycles -- only a parade of becak (tricycle taxi) travel the tiny cement streets on the island. We hopped on a becak, and were given the full tour of the entire island, both Martin and I riding cozily together in one (not an ideal state in the heat of the tropics). It cost us about two dollars.



Sometimes these becak drivers don't obey the rules!



And in the blazing mid-day sun, I think I saw more of them resting under the shade of a tree than working... it's too HOT!




I think we will go back again sometime, and now that we know there are several other islands all within reach of a day-trip from Sorong, maybe we won't go to the office 7 days a week! This is a picture of Pulau Buaya (Crocodile Island, so-named because of the distinctive shape, NOT the presence of the beast!)... maybe it'll be next weekend!?




Just a note: When looking for directions in the port city of Sorong you can't just accept the answer "pelabuhan" ("harbour", or "port")... as we found out when looking for the public transportation to the little island. You have to specify WHICH ONE! There is the fishing port, the tourist harbour, the 'regular' harbour, the oil & gas docks, and of course, the Pelni port (where the big passenger ships, Pelni, come to rest).


(In this pic you can see an example of the little yellow mini-vans that are public busses here in Sorong)

Gado-Gado Goodness!



Well, I have to say, Gado-gado almost instantly became one of my favourite Indonesian gastronomic delights! It is the closest thing that you can come to when looking for a 'salad' in Indonesia. It's not the same as a fresh, crisp, leafy-green chef's salad... but there's a reason you don't get a lot of that in Indonesia (I believe hepatitis A to be the best one)! This is a 'boiled salad'... green beans, sprouts, carrots, and cabbage, green leaves of various trees, and tofu, pressed rice, topped with a boiled egg. The contents can vary from place to place, but you get the idea.

The sauce (which I always ask for on the side, because I find they completely tend to smother the veggies with three times the amount necessary), is a yummy, slightly sweet, slightly spicy, peanut sauce. The picture below is the way it comes, sauce and all... doesn't look very appetizing, but it's really quite tasty!



I love that when you ask for something 'bungkus' (wrapped up to go) here, they still use banana leaves in some places! Not quite the same as it was traditionally (since they now also use waxed brown paper and elastic bands), but I think it's still a nice touch!

I know, I know, you're all sick about hearing about the food here... but, what else can I say... work is the same for now, day in and day out, and I'm sure you don't want to read about THAT! And outside of work, well, we have very little life! Sad, but true. (You can read a little more on why that is in my previous post!)

WHY We Have NO Social Life
AIDS in West Papua
(and why I'm blogging on a Saturday night!)

I knew that the HIV/AIDS infection rate in West Papua was considerably higher than the rest of Indonesia, and I understood that this probably meant some pretty big numbers, considering the prevalence of commercial sex and the fact that adequate and informed sexual education is found nowhere either formally, or non-formally.

What I didn't realize is that West Papua has the highest per-capita rates of infection not only in all of Indonesia, but in Oceania, and the island of New Guinea (even higher than PNG!); infection rate is reaching sub-Saharan African levels! West Papua is truly in the eye of the HIV storm.

Projections show that possibly 3% of the population of West Papua is infected with HIV/AIDS. And because of numerous factors, not the least of which is the booming resource economy currently operating in West Papua, these numbers are projected to increase exponentially in the coming years. These statistics don't hold for Raja Ampat, as until recently it has remained a fairly remote area. However, infection has begun, as development has driven the migration of many natives of Raja Ampat into the city of Sorong -- hub for transportation, trade, and, the spread of HIV infection.

HIV/AIDS infection will be difficult to control without education. "Most Papuans have heard of HIV/AIDS. But condoms are a different story. In a 2001 study, only 29% of people interviewed across the province could identify a condom when shown one." (Lesley Butt, AIDS in West Papua: Top Ten Reasons to Worry) An education program that will address this current level of knowledge will have to be immediate and intensive if it intends to make a difference! However, sex in Indonesia is still fairly taboo -- a topic shrouded in silence, shame, and secrecy. Until recent years condom ads were considered pornography and thus illegal. Good luck convincing government officials that this is a true crisis, and getting them to back SexEd and condom distribution initiatives!

So why is it exactly that we don't have a social life... Wasn't that the title of your post, Ange? Are you sure you didn't mean to entitle it "Why we have no SEX life"... no, no, no... You see, aside from all of the horror spelled out in the statistics, there is a very scary and completely incomprehensible practice taking place after dark in Sorong... A friend told us that a few HIV/AIDS infected people have taken to 'sticking' people with infected needles in bars and clubs. What is the logic behind this? I can't imagine. It just seems sick to me. What, "I'm going to die because of this evil virus, and I'm going to take as many people down with me as possible... or what!?" Needless to say, I have never been to a bar in Sorong. I have absolutely no desire to play Russian Roulette, and don't really like the 'Discos' in Indonesia anyway!

Feelin' a little sluggish...




I guess the delays with the Kalabia (Education Vessel) arriving, the uninspiring city of Sorong, and the fact that my 'counterpart' seems to be constantly 'ill' and never at the office has got me down.

The Kalabia has been experiencing technical difficulties, and is well over a month late arriving in Sorong. Although I still have plenty of work and planning to do, there are certain things that are being held up by this late arrival! However, it would be nice if I didn't feel like I were doing them alone. During this trying time of 'waiting', I am also finding it extremely frustrating that CI would hire a "Marine Environmental Education Specialist" who knows nothing about Conservation, Ecology OR Education. I understand the idea of mentoring, but usually the person being mentored takes an active interest in the task at hand, no?, or at least has some basic level of skills, knowledge, interest or motivation to build upon!? I am finding the current hiring process for our assistants to be all the more exasperating, because I am in on it, and am feeling more and more hopeless... no one else is taking the selection seriously... well, what did i expect, when they hire a 'big boss' who is, for lack of a better word, such a dud!?

I am even more frustrated when I go into the field with a CI team... why? Let's just say that very very few people who work in conservation in Indonesia are actually CONSERVATIONISTS! They don't think about the LOADS of garbage they themselves are needlessly producing, and then leaving in the pristine areas that they are supposed to be conserving. They are just as bad as every other Indonesian, who spares no thought whatsoever, when buying water for instance, as to the best way to reduce the amount of waste... they buy individual plastic bottles that they don't reuse... they could refill their 1 gallon jugs, but now that wouldn't be quite as convenient would it!? grrr....

It's not hard to see how this situation has come about... In Canada (or the 'Western world'), in general working for a Conservation NGO is not big money... people who work in Conservation are not doing it to get rich, they are truly concerned with the welfare of the planet and are trying to do something about it. They have chosen a career that may not make them wealthy monetarily, however satisfies in them something more important. This is NOT the case in Indonesia (I don't want to generalize to say the 'Developing World', although this is probably the case). In my experience so far in Indonesia, I have worked with people in a small local NGO as well as a big international one, and the basic vibe is the same... although they're working for the 'big picture of conservation', on a small scale, they aren't truly conservationists at all and are working for the sustainability of their pocketbooks. Working with an NGO in Indonesia represents a sizeable salary, and benefits, for little amount of actual work, compared to many other options available. Not very inspiring.

Sorry for ranting. Glad THAT'S out of my system!

SMILE UP!

I get a real kick out of the anglisization of many of the product names in Indonesia... this is one of the ones that makes me grin every time I'm in the shampoo/toiletries aisle in the supermarket!



I remember talking with my cousin Julianne about the thing I like most about traveling to a new country: exploring the markets, and supermarkets! I think at the time we were scanning a mom'n'pop shop in Galapagos for new and unusual sweet treats. Being in a local market or looking at the shelves lining a supermarket is what makes me really feel like I'm in a new place, and even after being there a while, reminds me I still have a lot to learn.

Fun & Games at the Office!?

A great whoop and holler, people jumping up and running out of the room... What caused this chaos in the middle of a regular Monday afternoon?

Someone's idea of a silly joke - to break the somber mood in the sweat and heat of the afternoon - was to throw a small live snake under the desk where some of the assistants were working! I didn't have my camera with me at the office, but found this pic online. Although he was actually a lot smaller than the snake in the photo, probably a juvenile, he got the desired response!



I got the chance to have a good look at our black guest while a few people set about trying to capture him to set him free again... I had the fleeting thought "hey, even though we have air conditioning and satellite internet, we're still in PAPUA... maybe this snake is not as innocent as he looks!" I settled down to my laptop and sat internet, and found out that he was most likely a Papuan Black Snake, one of the most poisonous snakes in Papua (and makes the list of most poisonous in the world!). Good thing he stayed calmer than the folks in the office!

Although we can't be 100% in identifying it (no serpentologists in the office here), everyone who saw both the live thing as well as the description and pictures of the snake agree it had to be a Papuan Black Snake.

Here's what my research uncovered: "The Papuan black snake (Pseudechis papuensis) is found in Papua New Guinea, and has been recently found on Saibai Island in the Torres Strait. Its numbers are thought to be in decline, possibly as a result of the introduction of the cane toad (Bufo marinus) into its habitat. It lives in swampy areas of the southern coastal lowlands of PNG, where it feeds on small mammals and frogs. It is usually a uniform glossy black, but may be dark brown. It is solidly built, with a large, flat head. The length ranges from 2.1 to 2.4m. It is oviparous. The papuan black snake is said to be of a nervous disposition, avoiding human contact, but will strike aggressively if cornered. [!] The venom produces coagulopathy, neurotoxicity and haemolysis. The antivenom of choice is black snake antivenom.

This snake has reportedly been used historically by native shamen for murder or assassination!

OFFICIAL BLUE AUCTION UPDATE

... and the results are in ...

An official, inside source has confirmed this morning, that, as the article posted in my previous blog states, The Blue Auction was a resounding success!

Just a note: Lot #12, the Kalabia walking shark, was expected to be the highlight of the evening, and no expectations remained unfulfilled! The winning bidder paid 500,000 for the right to name the Kalabia, Mascot for our Marine Education Program. This, and some of the other funds from the auction which are being allocated to the Education Program will cover the operational costs of the Program for several years!

You can see more in this article from the Washington Post.

BLUE AUCTION UPDATE

This is just an excerpt from an article I found online.

The Blue Auction, held on September 20th, surpassed its goal of raising two million dollars by a hair! The grand total for the naming rights of ten newly discovered marine species, as well as two other prizes, raked in $2,015,000.00. The big winner was the "walking shark," whose naming rights alone brought in $500,000. The winners will submit their names of choice to the International Commission for Zoological Nomenclature where they will be reviewed by a panel.

The funds that were raised at the Blue Auction will be used directly to benefit three marine conservation programs in Indonesia: The Marine Empowerment Initiative, The Marine Enforcement Initiative and The Marine Conservation Education Initiative.

Photo Essays

One of the tools that we will use in our Education Program to have children and adults alike think about and reflect upon their natural surroundings and the values that they attribute to the environment, is a Photo Essay (or Photo Novella) activity. During this activity, participants are given a specific problem or theme to consider. They then disperse around their community in search of a photo that best captures their specific feelings about that particular topic. Although participants are invited to explain their selection, the hope is that the photos will tell the story; a picture is worth a thousand words, no!?

There is a really well done photo essay by a team of CI Staff that came from Washington to help with the initial design of our Raja Ampat Education Program. You can have a look at the people I work with and the villages in this part of the world! (not sure why I'm not in any of the pics... guess they don't want to show too much BULE (whitie) presence ;) haha!)


An interesting note, creating a photo essay may sound like like a simple exercise to all of you... but here of course, we will have to preface the activity with a lesson on how to use a camera! There are no cameras here, and when tourists or NGO workers come in with these novel gadgets it's a free-for-all; everyone wants to take pictures of their entire family and community in every possible combination! So, we shall see: can they overcome the excitement of the new toy and settle down to the task?


I recently found another Photo Essay about Raja Ampat online which you can all enjoy... Although I have been trying to share with you tidbits of the underwater world here, it perhaps does a better job of showing you the wonders of where we are! (This is a CI pic of a Manta Ray... I still haven't seen one underwater) Excellent Photo Essay by David Doubilet (famed nature photographer) online at National Geographic’s website. Just click on the underlined, linked text, for those of you who are techno-stars!)




There is also an article in the National Geographic magazine.

Enjoy!

Kalabia Outreach
(secondary programs)

Although the main focus of the Kalabia is Eduction, it is in fact an "Outreach and Education vessel". In it's 'outreach' function, Kalabia will not only serve to deliver supplies to CI and TNC field stations, but also bring doctors and essential healthcare to remote villages. We will invite visiting doctors to travel with us to villages and promote and support projects for health and community wellness.

Vaccinations are a weak point in the health care system in Raja Ampat. Although there are community 'nurses' in most communities that have been trained to give vaccinations, long distances from the city, rugged forms of transportation and lack of electricity on the islands means they don't have a safe way to transport or store vaccines in the community. With the Kalabia, we will be able to help communities and government overcome these obstacles, and provide these essentials throughout the Regency of Raja Ampat.

Another possible function of Kalabia will be to host visiting scientists doing research in Raja Ampat. The Kalabia is supposed to be equipped with a full scuba setup, so we will be able not only to host researchers looking into socio-cultural aspects of the communities in Raja Ampat, but also support the work of those looking into the ecology of the reefs and seas!

The Blue Auction



I am now working with Conservation International in the Raja Ampat (Bird’s Head of Papua) Project. I am developing the Environmental Education Program that will be based onboard a ship and travel around to the villages in the region to do programming. The funding for the Education Program is (*hopefully*) going to be bolstered by an elite event that will be held in Monaco in a couple of days, called The Blue Auction. You can check out The Blue Auction website, and, if you happen to have an extra couple mil lying around, you may just want to consider attending, or bidding!

The Blue Auction is a funky new form of fund-raising; a gala auction event with limited seating. It's not the auction part that is unique or innovative... it's what being auctioned off! The idea behind it is that people can bid for the right to name some of the new species that have been discovered here in Raja Ampat. There are several species of fish, corals, and even a shark that walks on his fins! The opening bids have been set well outside my personal budget (from $50,000 up to $500,000 for the shark!!!) It’s all for a good cause – Conservation efforts in one of the world’s last true pristine areas! I’m told that some of the folks that are going to be in attendance are some pretty big names (who obviously aren't making a volunteers stipend like me!). Word is Leonardo DiCapprio (or was it Bono or the Prince of Monaco himself?) has his heart set on naming the ‘walking shark’ (the mascot for our Education Program)!



Unfortunately I myself won’t be in Monaco on Thursday, schmoozing with the rich and famous… I will still be here.

P.S> Happy Birthday Gabs... I would buy the rights to name this species "Pseudanthia Gabriela" in honour of your Birthday, but, well, you understand... I'd have to mortgage the hubby, kids, and home, and since I don't have any of the above, you're stuck with just my bestest wishes! Love you! Here's your pretty pink fairy fish... come for a visit and we'll go diving to look for her!

The EGG Man and the EVERYTHING Man!



It doesn't seem too unusual to me anymore to see motorcycles piled with all manner of wares for sale in the streets in Indonesia. When you think about it, it makes sense... cheap and effective means of transporting an endless supply of odds and sods (depending how good you are at rigging up a carry-all or tie-down system) to all corners of the city or countryside. In the city, of course the advantage would be weaving amongst the traffic, whereas in the country it is more likely the ability to swerve to avoid potholes or washouts... either way, high-speed, high-volume... what better service! Some entrepreneurs, like the milkman, or the egg-man (above) have chosen to specialize, while others have taken on more of a dollar-store/mini-mart approach to their business:





Stopped at a red light in Bali, I was determined to think of something he wouldn't be carrying... so I asked the driver of this supermarket-on-wheels if he happened to have a medium-sized, rainbow-coloured feather duster... when he produced it in no time, what other choice does one have but to buy!? "I'm thinking of foul for dinner... you wouldn't happen to have a duck on you, would you?", I ask. "No", came the reply... "but hold on, I'll call my friend over."